Not sure why they'd say a stall will "tear up" a transmission if they know what they're doing. They might have the old beer-can philosophy that if it's not a full-blown "race car", then it doesn't need any performance parts; but, poke around in the auto transmission forum here and you'll likely see most guys think stalling their auto is one of the best things they've ever done.

But, like I said, if it's not an LS1-specific shop, or at least a shop that's worked on a decent amount of them, they're just talking out of their *** about low 12s. Not gonna happen, and unfortunately, the stall is going to be the big thing holding you back with an auto car.

 

107,xxx miles. The car belonged to a GM tech supposedly but we have had all fluids replaced and everything was working fine but we had to replace the water pump and we got a new battery.

Im sure after a year or two go by my dad will lighten up to the idea but I was told it will run low 12's with all the listed info. You guys say otherwise though but the only way to find out is to run it down the track. What would I have to do in order to run low 12's? Whatever you guys reccomend, though, im sure my dad will take it down to the tranny shop and they will say otherwise. I like them and we do a ton of business with them and they are nice people but I feel like I should do what they reccomend because they have had 5-6 of these LS1's and they have learned from experience. But I appreciate all you guys say and Im def considering it but I feel like someone is lying or misunderstanding the situation.

 

They have had their fair share of LS1s and they have been through the paces with them. So headers, y-pipe, radials, polyurethane tranny mount, granatelli lid, cold air, bigger mass air flow, and a reworked computer to open everything up wont put me in the mid-to-low 12's?

 

Stall. Really...you can do a shitload of work to the car, but without a good aftermarket stall in there, it's going to dog out of the hole, since you'll be launching off idle or whatever foot-braking will hold (and it's probably not much).

There's really no reason not to put one in; what's strange is that the shop would discourage you from putting one in, when it would be money in their pocket if they did the job.

Cold air and a bigger MAF aren't going to do anything; the stock MAF isn't restrictive until you get into internal work (and even then it's debatable, but most guys go with an SD tune and that eliminates the need for a MAF), and without an SSRA or the chrs1313 setup, there's not a cold air kit on the market that does anything better than the stock setup. Lids are nice, good for 2-3hp and better throttle response; long tubes can give you good gains, but the car needs to be tuned properly after they're installed or you'll just run rich. Poly trans mount does nothing except give the torque arm a slightly more solid mounting point; the engine mounts are what control excessive engine movement, which is directly related to the amount of power you put down (especially launching at a track); the trans mount does a little to reduce axial transmission movement, but mostly just to control z-axis tailshaft movement (especially with the shitty tailshaft-mounted torque arm these cars have stock). Drag radials are good, but with an unstalled auto and 2.73 gears, you'd probably do just as well with a good set of street tires.

Three biggest things for these cars, as far as power mods go: LS6 intake, long tubes and a good exhaust, and a good tune. Auto cars get the added "benefit" of needing a good stall, while manual cars wind up needing a better clutch. Anything outside of that (ignoring suspension, since that's a long discussion in itself) is really just max-effort stuff, until you get into internals.

 

We are having a nice tune put in it. It might be a while before we put in a cam and heads package. What cam and heads could I put on and not have to do anything else? And I already have the LS6 intake

 

You'll need a retune for sure after a head/cam package, and a lot of people upgrade their injectors and fuel pump at the same time. How did you get the go-ahead for heads and a cam, but not a stall?

Head and cam selection can get really specific, depending on your budget, emissions requirements, desired driving and power characteristics, and the like. Seems like it's better to do general research ahead of time, and when you actually have the money to buy the parts, get in deeper; flavor-of-the-month heads are always changing, as are popular cam choices. A 228/228 cam used to be considered a "big" LS1 cam; now, it's on the smaller end of daily-driver-friendly bumpsticks.

 

No the cam and heads will probably be in a year or two

 

get ready for 13.6's. there was a local around here that his best to date with 3.23's (which being yours isnt a ws6 it probably has 2.73's) a lid ls6 intake and ok exhaust was a 13.3 at like 103. ive been 13.0 at 1110 but thats a different discussion lol. honestly best bang for your buck and itll make your car feel like a different animal is gears. if you make the jump from 2.73's to 3.73's your gonna have a grin on your face for about a weak the change is wicked. youll need to be willing to take a little hit on gas mileage and highway rpm but the change in the feel of the car is astonishing

 

So I asked my dad and he says the tranny shop says no, so why should we get a stall? I will ask about gears but I'm not very happy right now since you guys say I will be running 13s!!!! That's pathetic!! There has to be another way to get mid 12's without a stall. Or NOS....

 

Is your "bigger MAF sensor" aftermarket or GM, Delphi brand?

If its aftermarket, get rid of it. Stick with stock set up.

 

It's aftermarket.

 

Who told you stalls are to hard on the auto? Forget that nonsense and get a stall. In your 1st post you said your setting it up for drag racing? Well if thats the case then your in for some really boring drag racing in an auto without a stall.

My car with full exhaust, cai kit, and lid with STOCK stall +2265 DA
1/4 13.197
mph 106.93

Same car, same mods in -1245 DA
1/4 12.638
mph 110.04


Same car + yank ss3600 stall in -1124 DA
1/4 12.087
mph 112.10

Get a stall!

 

Wow... Now I really want one after I have seen those numbers. It's going to be a street/strip car. But with a stock tranny and engine I have with the full exhaust setup and lid, MAF, air kit, what kind of stall would work and what else do I need to buy with it so I can put it in and forget about it?

 

Back when I was trying to decided to have a shop put in the stall or just do it myself, the trans shop told me the same nonsense. Well, I ended up doing the stall myself and I gained .6 and 2mph in the 1/4 mile. Gained .3 in my 60'.
Dude, an auto drag car without a stall is like a race horse with no legs. It just sits there and ***** all over itself

 

Hahaha good stuff. Alright now the million dollar question. What is the most reliable stall that won't tear up my tranny. I would assume it needs to be at about 3000 or something?

 

Drag racing and stock stall dont go together in anyway whatsoever. Get a stall and some gears with everything you have listed already and run some 12's. Also, get rid of that flowmaster and/or install a cutout plate.

 

My car is the perfect street strip car IMO. Yank ss3600 stall is a great street strip converter. I love mine. Its so easy to drive on the street its just stupid. If I knew it would have been this easy to drive I would have gone PT4000 or SS4000.

Oh and the car now does 12.0 in +500 DA because I did some weight reduction. So in other words...when I go up to ne dragway this fall ill have 11s no problem

 

ss3600 is perfect street strip converter. Thats not to say other comps dont make a good street/strip converter but I have ss3600 and its their best all around street strip converter.
All you need is a good trans cooler and like any other mod a good tune.

 

Alright sounds good. I will start being extra good around dad so he will let me throw down for a stall. Thanks for the input.

 

OK so I see the ss3600 for the 4L60, do I need the transmission oil cooler 30,000 GVW? And do I need anything else or can I buy these and install them and get a tune and be ready to roll?