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Old Aug 8, 2011 | 11:53 PM
  #61  
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oh ok... I figured a new tranny mount would be a little easier on the transmission with a stall. I dont want to beat the tar out of my engine and/or my transmission. Whenever I smash into the gas though, I can feel and hear something that sounds like it is going to break. I was told it is the mount and I should get a polyurethane. if its not good now with a stock mount, i dont see how having one with a stall will help.
Old Aug 9, 2011 | 12:07 AM
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Get a stall, get a cooler, get a flexplate, do your motor mounts with poly, do your trans mount with gm stock rubber...
Old Aug 9, 2011 | 12:24 AM
  #63  
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why wouldn't i get a poly trans mount?
Old Aug 9, 2011 | 12:33 AM
  #64  
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will these work? 7-1908
Old Aug 9, 2011 | 12:41 AM
  #65  
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the best money you will spend in fun and fast factor on your car will be gears and stall if i were you id buy gears as they are much cheaper and have fun with those for awhile. after that then id mess with the stall. you really need to get more used to it and the gears stall combo right off the bat will flip your world upside down as a newer fbody driver.

in my opinion do gears now preferably 3.73s. have fun with them for awhile. then if your set on a stall go for it. i think if you just stick a stock trans mount in there and stick some gears in it your gonna have a blast with it.
Old Aug 9, 2011 | 12:52 AM
  #66  
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I already have a stock trans mount in. So I guess gears first, mounts later, then stall...
Old Aug 9, 2011 | 01:10 AM
  #67  
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you wont regret it. its night and day from what you have now to 3.73s
Old Aug 9, 2011 | 09:07 AM
  #68  
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Alright. Since we are putting my headers on tomorrow I will ask about everything else.
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Old Aug 9, 2011 | 09:31 AM
  #69  
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Originally Posted by MyFirst01
I will ask about everything else.
OR you can start using the search function. You'll see what lots of guys have done over the years instead of getting a few suggestions here.
Old Aug 9, 2011 | 10:24 AM
  #70  
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You can use a poly trans mount with stock engine mounts - as long as your stock engine mounts are in good condition. However, a lot of people dislike poly transmission mounts because of increased NVH transmission into the cabin of the car.

Engine mounts are a beast themselves, but are much easier to do when swapping headers in. I can't remember if you mentioned that you already have headers in or are going to have them put in, but strongly consider going to poly motor mounts while installing headers. It's by far the easiest time to do them.
Old Aug 9, 2011 | 10:56 AM
  #71  
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No I'm going to ask about poly motor and tranny mounts if we get a stall and flexplate... And cooler haha. My dad is making me ask the tranny shop and they will probably say no but if I buy it all anyways, they will help me install it. I think I'm going poly motor mounts and poly trans mount though.
Old Aug 9, 2011 | 07:06 PM
  #72  
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Well, I asked my dad to ask the trans shop, and they said they have had nothing but problems with stalls and I will be going through transmissions like crazy if I put one on my car with all the miles it has. We are putting a poly trans mount on but not motor mounts. I think it will be high 12's for me for a while. I appreciate all the help guys and maybe I will get a stall further on down the road but better safe than sorry.
Old Aug 9, 2011 | 07:29 PM
  #73  
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STOP.

ANSWER THESE QUESTIONS:

1: What is your rear end gear ratio?
2: How many miles are on this car?
3: What is the condition of the transmission?


If you want more experienced people here to assist you, you need to answer their questions so they can better assess your situation to offer more accurate advice.

EDIT: My bad, I see you've posted 107K miles. Sometimes I suffer from O.L.D.

Last edited by Paul Bell; Aug 9, 2011 at 08:38 PM.
Old Aug 9, 2011 | 07:32 PM
  #74  
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Why don't you feel like listening to anyone in this thread? A stall won't make you go through tranny's, as long as you keep the temps down your tranny won't know the difference.

Also, if you are on stock mounts, with 107,xxx miles on them, and they are not in great shape, don't put on the poly trans mount. You want your trans mount to give more than your engine and not the other way around.

To me it seems like you are getting very bad advice from these "experts" and turning a deaf ear to people who have first hand experience on these subjects.
Old Aug 9, 2011 | 07:49 PM
  #75  
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Originally Posted by =Tac=
Why don't you feel like listening to anyone in this thread?
Selective hearing. It's what kids do to their parents. In this case, he only hears what he likes and ignores what he doesn't like.

Sometimes, you just can't teach or guide people, you gotta sit back and watch them learn on their own from their own mistakes rather than listening to good advise from those who've been there, done that and know better.

To the OP:

We're gonna continue trying to help you but you gotta work with us man.

Four easy ways to get the rear ratio:

Turn the drive shaft by hand with the rear wheels off the ground. For a single complete wheel rotation, how many times does the drive shaft turn?
OR
Get the G code off the door sticker. GU2 = 2.73, GU5 = 3.23 and GU6 = 3.42
OR
Get the VIN and plug it into the compnine website and find the G code.
OR
Post your VIN here and we'll plug it into the compnine website.

While you're under the car, tell us if it's a steel or aluminum drive shaft. Not sure? Try sticking a magnet to it.
Old Aug 9, 2011 | 08:41 PM
  #76  
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Sorry guys but my hearing is just fine. I don't like it any more than you guys but he is my dad and at the end of the day he decides what goes on the car. Half of that has to do with the trans shop people telling him not to do this or that. I haven't been around the car in a week or so but tomorrow I will let you guys know what gears I have. I can only assume the motor mount are in OK shape because, well, look at the facts-the motor has 107,000 miles on it. But the trans shop went ahead and told us it's ok to put in a poly trans mount. I will try to get some motor mounts to slip in while we are putting on my headers. Speaking of headers I'm not sure when my car will be in cause they are swamped and haven't had time to install them. I think I can get 3.73's in though. I will pay for them if I have to.
Old Aug 10, 2011 | 12:28 AM
  #77  
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sounds like the trans shop doesnt know what theyre talking about.


as far as the gears go we will need to know for a suggestion but unless your car is a ws6 im more than willing to bet its got 2.73's in which case going to 3.73's will make your car feel like you always have nitrous on its pretty wicked at first not gonna lie. just make sure someone sets them up that knows what theyre doing or theyll burn your nice new set of gears up.

after the headers make sure you get an xpipe or something in reality an xpipe performs similar to an offroad y pipe at stockish levels but an xpipe sounds way more badass
Old Aug 10, 2011 | 12:51 AM
  #78  
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Get a new trans shop. You are pissing in the wind with an auto and stock stall, period.

1998 Trans Am (from this point on it was ran HARD by me on a daily basis)
100K miles- 4400 converter ms4 cam LTs Xpipe 1 chambers
105K miles- 410s rear end girdle ported 90/90 FAST intake setup
110K miles-PRC stg 1 ls6 heads
116K miles- sold and still running like a champ to this day

I ran it hard... And I mean hard. WOT daily and PLENTY of hot laps at the track. Trans never missed a beat.
If you can't get a converter, stop modding it. Put a big cooler in it and a retune and don't worry about it. If it goes, it was going to go anywhere, PERIOD.

273s- consider an upgrade to 342s (I wouldn't)
323s- stick with stock gears until you upgrade rear ends then go 373s

Mods listed in first post- high 12s (mid 12s possible and low 13s possible all depends on weather and traction)
With a good converter- bottom 12s
Old Aug 10, 2011 | 12:53 AM
  #79  
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Originally Posted by Canbarelygo
sounds like the trans shop doesnt know what theyre talking about.


as far as the gears go we will need to know for a suggestion but unless your car is a ws6 im more than willing to bet its got 2.73's in which case going to 3.73's will make your car feel like you always have nitrous on its pretty wicked at first not gonna lie. just make sure someone sets them up that knows what theyre doing or theyll burn your nice new set of gears up.

after the headers make sure you get an xpipe or something in reality an xpipe performs similar to an offroad y pipe at stockish levels but an xpipe sounds way more badass
All of my base models have had the optional 323s, it is a toss up. Majority f the time Trans Ams have 323s and Z28s have 273s, don't know why it is just more common.

False.
Old Aug 10, 2011 | 01:00 AM
  #80  
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it may be more common but everyone ive met around here with just a t/a has had 2.73's so im speaking from personal experience. 3.23's are not gonna be a big jump if you do have 2.73s you may feel a difference but itll be kind eh. i daily mine with 3.73's and have for over a year on the bone stock rear except those gears and launch it dead hookin on the spray on concrete and my rear hasnt made a peep or done anything out of the ordinary its quiet as a mouse. i did however have someone with skill set them up. i dont see any reason why he shouldnt go for 3.73's unless you think the stock rear wont last with them for some reason but idk why you would. i think for an auto 3.73s are a very very good gear especially for something that is gonna get drag raced alot



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