Underdrive pulley removal?
08-12-2011, 10:28 PM
#1
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Underdrive pulley removal? So I am in the middle of determining the cause of my loss of oil pressure and I cannot get the underdrive pulley off. I bought a harmonic balancer pulley removal kit from sears. Pretty much bent the bolts, one stripped out in the UDP, the pulley didnt budge.
So how do you guys get your UDP off? I have a 3 jaw coming in the mail soon and was going to try that.
So how do you guys get your UDP off? I have a 3 jaw coming in the mail soon and was going to try that.
08-12-2011, 10:35 PM
#2
3-bolt puller usually works great for me, but using grease on the base w/ a hardened washer to protect the crank snout and a big air gun to spin the bolt. I also use at least grade 8.8 bolts only, no cheapos.
08-13-2011, 09:27 AM
#7
As was said, a 3-jaw isn't the right tool. Nothing for it to grab from the inner ring unlike the stock balancer, and if you try grabbing on the pulley lip you'll just break it.
Here's what I would do"
1.) Get stronger bolts for your current puller, as well as hardened washers to place under the bolt heads. Look for property class (grade) 8.8 or higher markings on the bolt head.
2.) When you install them, make sure they are all threaded in to the same depth so the puller is applying equal force to all 3 bolts.
3.) Grease up the tip of the main threaded rod where it inserts into the circular plate that pushes on the crank. This way you won't be fighting as much friction as you turn the rod to remove the pulley.
4.) Use a large hardened washer that fits inside the pulley **AND** is big enough to cover the crank snout. Grease it as well, both sides. To get the right size, take your old stock crank bolt to the hardware store and use the witness marks where it was tightened against the pulley. The inside diameter of that circle minus a mm or two is the right O.D. for what you want. Make sure the hole in the center is small enough that your puller's end plate won't slip through and hit the crank, or enter the threads and booger them up.
5.) Rent an electric impact gun if you don't have compressed air, and get the right size socket for the puller.
6.) Lube the puller's threaded section with a light coat of thin grease, so you're not fighting friction where it threads through the puller body. Don't need to grease the entire length, just get the puller in place and snug and then apply grease to the next ~2" of the threads where they will be passing through the puller as you tighten it.
7.) Using the impact gun, use short bursts of a second or two duration. If at any time you see the puller base change it's angle...STOP. Unbolt the puller, find what moved, and correct it.
Good luck!
Here's what I would do"
1.) Get stronger bolts for your current puller, as well as hardened washers to place under the bolt heads. Look for property class (grade) 8.8 or higher markings on the bolt head.
2.) When you install them, make sure they are all threaded in to the same depth so the puller is applying equal force to all 3 bolts.
3.) Grease up the tip of the main threaded rod where it inserts into the circular plate that pushes on the crank. This way you won't be fighting as much friction as you turn the rod to remove the pulley.
4.) Use a large hardened washer that fits inside the pulley **AND** is big enough to cover the crank snout. Grease it as well, both sides. To get the right size, take your old stock crank bolt to the hardware store and use the witness marks where it was tightened against the pulley. The inside diameter of that circle minus a mm or two is the right O.D. for what you want. Make sure the hole in the center is small enough that your puller's end plate won't slip through and hit the crank, or enter the threads and booger them up.
5.) Rent an electric impact gun if you don't have compressed air, and get the right size socket for the puller.
6.) Lube the puller's threaded section with a light coat of thin grease, so you're not fighting friction where it threads through the puller body. Don't need to grease the entire length, just get the puller in place and snug and then apply grease to the next ~2" of the threads where they will be passing through the puller as you tighten it.
7.) Using the impact gun, use short bursts of a second or two duration. If at any time you see the puller base change it's angle...STOP. Unbolt the puller, find what moved, and correct it.
Good luck!
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08-13-2011, 10:37 AM
#9
The threads on the Powerbond are an M7 x 1.25 IIRC. What I typically do is grab my M8 tap, tap the threads, and use water pump bolts on my puller.
What's pretty sad is, I called the makers of the power bond pulley a few years ago to ask them what size thread was in the pulley. Not only did they say "we don't know", they also said "just use a 3-jaw it'll be fine". Idiots.
What's pretty sad is, I called the makers of the power bond pulley a few years ago to ask them what size thread was in the pulley. Not only did they say "we don't know", they also said "just use a 3-jaw it'll be fine". Idiots.
08-13-2011, 12:14 PM
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I got it off now, used the harmonic balancer puller with hardened bolts. Found my problem also, the pressure relief valve was stuck open, WTF.
08-13-2011, 01:10 PM
#12
Congrats on getting the balancer off!
Whatever you do, please don't use a bolt to shove it back onto the crank when you're reassembling. Rent, buy, or fabricate a threaded rod installer. Pretty please with sugar on top.
As for your oil pump, chuck it in the recycle bin. Was it the factory pump?
I use and recommend Katech blueprinted oil pumps. Expensive but bulletproof. Katech ports and assembles these by hand and they don't stick or otherwise fail. There are cheaper options, but this is not an area I'm interested in cost-cutting.
They have two options, standard volume:
http://store.katechengines.com/gen-34-oil-pump-p5.aspx
And 23% higher volume:
http://store.katechengines.com/high-...pump-p272.aspx
Whatever you do, please don't use a bolt to shove it back onto the crank when you're reassembling. Rent, buy, or fabricate a threaded rod installer. Pretty please with sugar on top.
As for your oil pump, chuck it in the recycle bin. Was it the factory pump?
I use and recommend Katech blueprinted oil pumps. Expensive but bulletproof. Katech ports and assembles these by hand and they don't stick or otherwise fail. There are cheaper options, but this is not an area I'm interested in cost-cutting.
They have two options, standard volume:
http://store.katechengines.com/gen-34-oil-pump-p5.aspx
And 23% higher volume:
http://store.katechengines.com/high-...pump-p272.aspx
08-13-2011, 03:26 PM
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I used a propane torch and heated up the middle of my asp udp too 200 degrees, took about five minutes. Using mechanic gloves it slid on super easy and was able to use the stock length new bolt to do the 240 ft torque
08-13-2011, 03:31 PM
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The pump was actually a SLP Ported LS6, had 11,000 miles on it. I ordered a ported Texas speed pump, new gaskets and also the tool to put the balancer back on from Byunspeed.
Hopefully I didnt run it long enough to hurt anything in the motor.
Hopefully I didnt run it long enough to hurt anything in the motor.
10-18-2011, 10:35 PM
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hmm...i'm have an issue also with an underdrive pulley. i have jaw puller which i am trying to avoid from using but i have a 3 bolt puller as well. but the problem is the holes in the pulle yare wider than the 3 bolt puller. hope i'm not confusing anyone but... like whats in the picture i can only get one bolt in the pulley thur the puller. the holes are to far apart for it to work. it's a guys car i'm doing work on. the rings are bad in it , 1/2 quart a dayis what he was burning...i but i cant tear it down with getting the pulley off i dont see any markings on it saying what brand it is but its alot smaller than my stocker on my ss.any suggestions?
the bolt holes on the udp are on the outer most part of the pulley itself is why i cant use a 3 bolt puller and as i said i'm trying to avoid even attempting the jaw puller
the bolt holes on the udp are on the outer most part of the pulley itself is why i cant use a 3 bolt puller and as i said i'm trying to avoid even attempting the jaw puller
Last edited by trevorss00; 10-18-2011 at 11:32 PM. Reason: more info
10-20-2011, 07:18 PM
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I just used a really big 2 jaw puller from Sears. No problem. Just make sure you get a really big one so the jaws have plenty to hook on to on the back of the pulley. I think mine has an 8 inch spread.