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LS6 Intake Torque Problem

Old Aug 17, 2011 | 03:44 PM
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Default LS6 Intake Torque Problem

Well, I'm putting my LS6 intake back on and when looking at the torque specs, I found you are suppose to torque it in two sequences, first at 44 inch pounds and then again at 89 inch pounds. Well the smallest torque wrench I own only goes down to 10 foot pounds.

Is this pretty crucial to sealing? Do I need to go buy an inch pound torque wrench or can I get by with snug.
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Old Aug 17, 2011 | 04:11 PM
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i dont think its a must. id just torque them down lightly first, then go ahead and torque them down harder and thats about it. am installing mine this week. it wont hurt to know for sure tho lol
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Old Aug 17, 2011 | 08:21 PM
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Get an inch-pound torque wrench. It's a worthwhile tool to have in the box and beats warping or cracking the intake, or stripping/breaking the bolts.
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Old Aug 17, 2011 | 08:45 PM
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YES, it is very important to torque the intake down to the correct spec,, You need an inch pound torque wrench, most of them are 1/4 inch drive. You can just snug them most guys do, but the tool definately is the way to go. I dont see your location, but if you are close to me, I would let you borrow mine I am in NRH the north side of Fort Worth.
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Old Aug 18, 2011 | 03:25 AM
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I ended up borrowing an inch-pound torque wrench. It only cost me a case of beer, and that was my choice . From playing with the intake bolts I can definitely see that it would have been impossible (for me anyway) to gauge the torque by feel. There was only about a 1/2-3/4 turn difference between the first round of 44in-lbs and the second at 89in-lbs!
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Old Aug 18, 2011 | 06:53 AM
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Get an in-lb torque wrench, like these guys say. If you do much work on these cars, you'll find you use it every now and then, in critical applications (oil pan, intake, etc.)
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Old Aug 18, 2011 | 07:43 PM
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Originally Posted by TeeWX
I ended up borrowing an inch-pound torque wrench. It only cost me a case of beer, and that was my choice . From playing with the intake bolts I can definitely see that it would have been impossible (for me anyway) to gauge the torque by feel. There was only about a 1/2-3/4 turn difference between the first round of 44in-lbs and the second at 89in-lbs!
Another point, go around the bolts at final torque value until none of them move anymore. I've found that it takes as many as 4 or 5 times to get them all at the proper value...
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Old Aug 20, 2011 | 01:32 PM
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Make sure you torque them in the correct sequence.
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Old Aug 20, 2011 | 02:05 PM
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If something says in-lbs you better get out your in-lbs tq wrench (and make sure it is calibrated properly)

When I was assembling my wilwood rotors I didn't have one so I figured snug was good enough with a 10mm box end wrench (I mean they called for like 89in-lbs or so, and it' snot like I can apply 50ft-lbs with a 10mm wrench).

Anyways, long story short, after sheering 3 of the bolt heads right off I figured better buy an in-lbs torque wrench and do it again
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Old Aug 20, 2011 | 03:58 PM
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Yeah, worth the investment, just be sure you get one that has settings low enough for your needs. I had one and the next thing I know it didn't set lower than 90 in-lbs so I had to search for another one and ended up getting a cheap one off ebay because none of the hardware stores or autoshops had anything that small locally.
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Old Aug 20, 2011 | 08:07 PM
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torque,torque,torque!!!! from years of wrenching on harleys these aluminum and polymer motors proper torque is of the upmost importance!!!! it separates the men from the boys. and it might keep you from sitting on the highway....
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Old Aug 20, 2011 | 10:01 PM
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Once you've put a few heat cycles through the manifold, torque again.
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