Best Underdrive Pulley
Best Underdrive Pulley Hey guys
My car made 399rwhp on the dyno and its a really low number obviously for the cam thats in it but I was wondering what the best Underdrive pulley out there is right now. Obviously I don't need much but I'd like to get the best bang for the buck. Also anyone have issues with daily driving an Underdrive pulley. I dont have a big stereo system or anything in the car so no major draw on the alternator.
Thanks
My car made 399rwhp on the dyno and its a really low number obviously for the cam thats in it but I was wondering what the best Underdrive pulley out there is right now. Obviously I don't need much but I'd like to get the best bang for the buck. Also anyone have issues with daily driving an Underdrive pulley. I dont have a big stereo system or anything in the car so no major draw on the alternator.
Thanks
on second thought I guess this should really be in the External section. Mods feel free to move and sorry guys I spend all my time on the internal section its just habit
the BEST underdrive pulley is probably an ATI it is the only balancer that has a true dampener in the hub and it exceeds all requirements put out by racing organizations and oem. There is a reason every serious racer and engine builder uses them however at about 450 bucks they are pricey. The next would probably be a powerbond they are around 200 bucks. I have an ati on my car but when I was looking I found out that ati also does scratch and dent pieces when I called ATI i spoke with someone at the front desk and they were able to put a scratched and dent pulley together pulley for me for under half of what it normally cost. It does not affect the performance of the balancer in any way but some aesthetics such as paint or timing marks may not be perfect..
normally the powerbonds are 25% however ati currently doesnt offer a 25% they only have the 10 when I called atleast. I heard they were going to release a 25% but I havent seen it actually in stock anywhere. from the powerbond to the ati you may actually gain a little more with the ati because by correctly dampening the vibrations of the crank frees up hp along with the under drive. As far as I've seen people with ati's usually get 8-12 whp while power bonds are 6-10
Both of our cars are daily driven, and both have UD pulleys on them with a single issue at all.
Like was said, the ATI is the best, but the Powerbond is a pretty commong pulley. The SLP pulley is just a Powerbond in an SLP box, so if you decide to go that way, just buy the power bond to save a few bucks.
Like was said, the ATI is the best, but the Powerbond is a pretty commong pulley. The SLP pulley is just a Powerbond in an SLP box, so if you decide to go that way, just buy the power bond to save a few bucks.
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A Powerbond/SLP or ASP pulley will be just fine for your needs. My car made 398whp and I just bought one to get my car above 400whp.
I actually plan on installing mine tonight or tomorrow. I still have to look up the torque sequence for the new oem bolt, because the instructions are a little vague and confusing.
I actually plan on installing mine tonight or tomorrow. I still have to look up the torque sequence for the new oem bolt, because the instructions are a little vague and confusing.
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I have had the SLP and ASP pulley both in my hand at the same time. The ASP pulley was lighter and i have been running it for 5 years with no issues at all on two motors. My bud has been running it for three years with no issues. Both our cars are 10 sec n/a cars and i have ran a 10.2 on that pulley with no issues.
You are looking at about $275-320 shipped. All depends on which vendor you order from, price/brand of the pulley, price/brand of the belts, ARP or OEM crank bolt, and if you order an overdrive/underdrive alternator pulley.
Joined: Aug 2007
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From: Turnin' Wrenches Infractions: 005
SLP=Powerbond=about as heavy as a stocker, and they go for about $200 or so.
ASP=aluminum center so its one of the lightest, but I have seen some issues/complaints about them coming apart in the past
Summit=Cheapest and people started complaining about them as soon as they are released. I hope they stopped selling them
BBK=Don't know nothing about them.
ATI=hands down the best made, and most expensive price to match.
I'm running the 25% Powerbond. I think I found the best price at Maryland Speed under the SLP name.
ASP=aluminum center so its one of the lightest, but I have seen some issues/complaints about them coming apart in the past
Summit=Cheapest and people started complaining about them as soon as they are released. I hope they stopped selling them
BBK=Don't know nothing about them.
ATI=hands down the best made, and most expensive price to match.
I'm running the 25% Powerbond. I think I found the best price at Maryland Speed under the SLP name.
If I had to do it over again and couldnt get the same deal from ati I'd def get a powerbond/slp pulley. As Steve said the asp might be very light but I have heard about them coming apart also.
The summit one rusts from what Ive seen and heard and is a pretty much just a piece. I thought the bbk one was just a summit pulley in a rebadged box but I could be wrong....
Are underdrive pulley's in general pretty easy to swap? I've read before to wait and install one while doing a cam swap since you are in there anyway. I've pretty much ran out of bolt-on's to do other than a pulley, wondering if I should wait till I cam it or toss one on this winter. Also ARP bolt resuable and the OEM one not I assume?
Waiting or doing it now is up to you really. To do a cam the pulley has to come off, so if you already installed the ud pulley you'll need a new oem crank bolt but if you used an arp bolt you can reuse it.
OEM bolts are $3 or $4, and ARP bolts are around $25-28 so that's up to you which you decide to use.
OEM bolts are $3 or $4, and ARP bolts are around $25-28 so that's up to you which you decide to use.
Launching!
Joined: Nov 2010
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