Exhaust Manifold HELP!!
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 13
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Exhaust Manifold HELP!! I have a 2002 Camaro SS and i am looking to replace my exhaust. I have the setup in my garage and is waiting to be installed. Pacesetter LT's, TSP 3 IN. Y-Pipe, and Magnaflow muffler ( leaving factory CME )
QUESTION: My car has the factory Secondary Air Injection System and the LT's that I purchased do not have a housing/adapter for the injection system. Is there a known Header that offers the ability to still run the injection system without having to remove the Secondary Air Injection System? Would it still be possible to run LT's if it is possible? If i need to purchase a mid-length or Shorty header will i need to purchase a different Y-Pipe?
I am afraid that if I remove the S.A.I.S, I will throw a code and possible not pass emissions, because that is the whole purpose in the beginning.
( Not that i care about emissions )
Thank you for reading and I appreciate any help!
QUESTION: My car has the factory Secondary Air Injection System and the LT's that I purchased do not have a housing/adapter for the injection system. Is there a known Header that offers the ability to still run the injection system without having to remove the Secondary Air Injection System? Would it still be possible to run LT's if it is possible? If i need to purchase a mid-length or Shorty header will i need to purchase a different Y-Pipe?
I am afraid that if I remove the S.A.I.S, I will throw a code and possible not pass emissions, because that is the whole purpose in the beginning.
( Not that i care about emissions )
Thank you for reading and I appreciate any help!
There are "emissions headers". The fittings are often
the first thing to fail, the welds embrittle the tubing
and there's often no backup (a saddle fitting etc.).
For that matter on uncoated or stainless headers you
can add your AIR bung any-old-where as long as it's
upstream of the cats. On the other hand you mention
nothing about cats (TSP catted Y?) so maybe it is a
worthless vestige (AIR) in the end.
On the plus side you could lose another 5-10lb of nose
weight, ditching the pump and hoses.
the first thing to fail, the welds embrittle the tubing
and there's often no backup (a saddle fitting etc.).
For that matter on uncoated or stainless headers you
can add your AIR bung any-old-where as long as it's
upstream of the cats. On the other hand you mention
nothing about cats (TSP catted Y?) so maybe it is a
worthless vestige (AIR) in the end.
On the plus side you could lose another 5-10lb of nose
weight, ditching the pump and hoses.
Banned
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 1,127
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From: IL
What he said. i removed the whole air system when i put on the kooks off road headers. the air motor has 4 bolts to remove it. go under the drivers side were you would change the blinker. then you can see 4 bolts to remove the pump. after i took all of mine off it didn't want to come down. the bracket was stuck on. don't be afraid to pull it hard! then just remove the tubing. then just remove the part that goes to your manifolds. then on your drivers side on the back side off the head there is a little thing that joins the air tubing in the back. you take off the one bolt you can see. then the thing pulls straight up and off. once a again don't be afraid to pull. then you will need like a 5/8 vacuum cap. then the system is removed.
I have JET HOT LTs with Emissions Fittings. The A.I.R. System hooks directly to the fittings on each Header.
When I first decided I wanted to upgrade to LTs, I wanted to make sure this project would be as simple as possible. I figured retaining the A.I.R. System would make it so I'd have one less thing to worry about removing (or ******* up) during the install.
I do want to say, when I replace these Headers, I'll be going with an "Off-Road" Style LT without the fittings. I now want the A.I.R. System gone both for underhood aesthetics and to shave some unnecessary weight.
My advice would be to proceed with the Pacesetter LTs you have and find a writeup to guide you through the A.I.R. System removal. A Mail-Order-Tune will remove any SES Light that would be thrown by not having the system in place. A Tune by Frost will cost you about $150 and is well worth it. And while we're spending more of your money
, don't forget to order a set of Poly Motor Mounts to install while you have the factory manifolds off the car. Good luck, man.
When I first decided I wanted to upgrade to LTs, I wanted to make sure this project would be as simple as possible. I figured retaining the A.I.R. System would make it so I'd have one less thing to worry about removing (or ******* up) during the install.
I do want to say, when I replace these Headers, I'll be going with an "Off-Road" Style LT without the fittings. I now want the A.I.R. System gone both for underhood aesthetics and to shave some unnecessary weight.
My advice would be to proceed with the Pacesetter LTs you have and find a writeup to guide you through the A.I.R. System removal. A Mail-Order-Tune will remove any SES Light that would be thrown by not having the system in place. A Tune by Frost will cost you about $150 and is well worth it. And while we're spending more of your money
, don't forget to order a set of Poly Motor Mounts to install while you have the factory manifolds off the car. Good luck, man. Last edited by Mumbles; Jan 4, 2012 at 02:54 AM. Reason: Just a little clarification. LOL
Although, I would hope you would agree, removing the A.I.R. Tubes that run to each Manifold (and the EGR System) does improve the under hood appearance of our cars. Not to mention, removing these items also "Cleans up" the engine bay, by freeing up a little more working room under the hood. Not a tremendous amount, but every little bit counts in these cramped engine bays.
As for a HP Increase, I would have to agree with you there. Probably not gonna see any gain there. But shaving a couple pounds off the front of these nose heavy beasts sure as Hell can't hurt.
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Teching In
Joined: Jul 2011
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What he said. i removed the whole air system when i put on the kooks off road headers. the air motor has 4 bolts to remove it. go under the drivers side were you would change the blinker. then you can see 4 bolts to remove the pump. after i took all of mine off it didn't want to come down. the bracket was stuck on. don't be afraid to pull it hard! then just remove the tubing. then just remove the part that goes to your manifolds. then on your drivers side on the back side off the head there is a little thing that joins the air tubing in the back. you take off the one bolt you can see. then the thing pulls straight up and off. once a again don't be afraid to pull. then you will need like a 5/8 vacuum cap. then the system is removed.
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 13
Likes: 0
I have JET HOT LTs with Emissions Fittings. The A.I.R. System hooks directly to the fittings on each Header.
When I first decided I wanted to upgrade to LTs, I wanted to make sure this project would be as simple as possible. I figured retaining the A.I.R. System would make it so I'd have one less thing to worry about removing (or ******* up) during the install.
I do want to say, when I replace these Headers, I'll be going with an "Off-Road" Style LT without the fittings. I now want the A.I.R. System gone both for underhood aesthetics and to shave some unnecessary weight.
My advice would be to proceed with the Pacesetter LTs you have and find a writeup to guide you through the A.I.R. System removal. A Mail-Order-Tune will remove any SES Light that would be thrown by not having the system in place. A Tune by Frost will cost you about $150 and is well worth it. And while we're spending more of your money, don't forget to order a set of Poly Motor Mounts to install while you have the factory manifolds off the car. Good luck, man.
When I first decided I wanted to upgrade to LTs, I wanted to make sure this project would be as simple as possible. I figured retaining the A.I.R. System would make it so I'd have one less thing to worry about removing (or ******* up) during the install.
I do want to say, when I replace these Headers, I'll be going with an "Off-Road" Style LT without the fittings. I now want the A.I.R. System gone both for underhood aesthetics and to shave some unnecessary weight.
My advice would be to proceed with the Pacesetter LTs you have and find a writeup to guide you through the A.I.R. System removal. A Mail-Order-Tune will remove any SES Light that would be thrown by not having the system in place. A Tune by Frost will cost you about $150 and is well worth it. And while we're spending more of your money
, don't forget to order a set of Poly Motor Mounts to install while you have the factory manifolds off the car. Good luck, man. The Factory Mounts on these cars consist of a set of Pedestals, and Metal Clamshells with a Rubber Bushing inside that help to dampen noise and vibration from the powertrain into the chassis, but the rubber allows quite a bit of flex that can lead to your exhaust banging on the floorpan when you're on the throttle hard.
Poly Mounts replace the rubber bushings with a Polyurethane Insert that allow for much less flex. They translate a bit more vibration into the cabin of the car, but are well worth this minor annoyance to reap the benefits of not having your newly installed LTs banging the underside of the car.
The reason most people choose to perform this modification at the same time as installing headers, is due to the amount of difficulty there is to access the Motor Mounts while the Manifolds or Headers are still on the car. Getting to them is nearly impossible without removal of exhaust from the motor.
Installing the new mounts can be a pain in the ***, but there are plenty of writeups on this site that will give you step-by-step instructions. I highly recommend performing this mod now. Don't wait for your new pipes to hit the floorpan and have to completely undo your header installation so you can fix this problem. Do it right the first time.
Good luck.
Poly Mounts replace the rubber bushings with a Polyurethane Insert that allow for much less flex. They translate a bit more vibration into the cabin of the car, but are well worth this minor annoyance to reap the benefits of not having your newly installed LTs banging the underside of the car.
The reason most people choose to perform this modification at the same time as installing headers, is due to the amount of difficulty there is to access the Motor Mounts while the Manifolds or Headers are still on the car. Getting to them is nearly impossible without removal of exhaust from the motor.
Installing the new mounts can be a pain in the ***, but there are plenty of writeups on this site that will give you step-by-step instructions. I highly recommend performing this mod now. Don't wait for your new pipes to hit the floorpan and have to completely undo your header installation so you can fix this problem. Do it right the first time.
Good luck. Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 13
Likes: 0
The Factory Mounts on these cars consist of a set of Pedestals, and Metal Clamshells with a Rubber Bushing inside that help to dampen noise and vibration from the powertrain into the chassis, but the rubber allows quite a bit of flex that can lead to your exhaust banging on the floorpan when you're on the throttle hard.
Poly Mounts replace the rubber bushings with a Polyurethane Insert that allow for much less flex. They translate a bit more vibration into the cabin of the car, but are well worth this minor annoyance to reap the benefits of not having your newly installed LTs banging the underside of the car.
The reason most people choose to perform this modification at the same time as installing headers, is due to the amount of difficulty there is to access the Motor Mounts while the Manifolds or Headers are still on the car. Getting to them is nearly impossible without removal of exhaust from the motor.
Installing the new mounts can be a pain in the ***, but there are plenty of writeups on this site that will give you step-by-step instructions. I highly recommend performing this mod now. Don't wait for your new pipes to hit the floorpan and have to completely undo your header installation so you can fix this problem. Do it right the first time. Good luck.
Poly Mounts replace the rubber bushings with a Polyurethane Insert that allow for much less flex. They translate a bit more vibration into the cabin of the car, but are well worth this minor annoyance to reap the benefits of not having your newly installed LTs banging the underside of the car.
The reason most people choose to perform this modification at the same time as installing headers, is due to the amount of difficulty there is to access the Motor Mounts while the Manifolds or Headers are still on the car. Getting to them is nearly impossible without removal of exhaust from the motor.
Installing the new mounts can be a pain in the ***, but there are plenty of writeups on this site that will give you step-by-step instructions. I highly recommend performing this mod now. Don't wait for your new pipes to hit the floorpan and have to completely undo your header installation so you can fix this problem. Do it right the first time.
Good luck.