oxblood!z28

If its not one thing its another. I had my car on the lift today to degree the cam and the Comp Cams LS1 degree kit came with a crank socket that needed the oil pump to come off. Some of you guys know how to go about it when the motor is still in the bay. So I went ahead and loosened the oil pan bolts and what happens, the oil pan corner on the driver side breaks off. Its near the oil filter, the very last bolt. The oil filter wasn't affected but now the oil pan is comprimised. I'm trying to stay positive about this and i'm hoping that I don't have to replace the oil pan soon. i have a few ideas but I want to know what guys think I should do? Please help
thanks

usafws6

iTrader: (10)

A tig welder and someone who knows how to use it

bww3588

iTrader: (49)

A new oil pan. Once it's welded, it will have to be milled flat and if it's not welded perfectly, it will leak. Not to mention once you sink all the money in it to have it fixed, you could have just bought a different pan.

bww3588

iTrader: (49)

Main reason I say this is because the oil pan on these engines does a lot more than hold oil. They are critical to front cover and bell housing alignment. If it's not perfect, your bound for more problems.

oxblood!z28

Damn....what if i did a JB weld. I can still screw the piece that is broken off to match up with the rest of the oil pan. I'll try to get some pictures today. If I have to get an oil pan, is there a way to remove it besides dropping the motor?

gMAG

iTrader: (1)

Yeah, it's always that push-pull between fixing something permanently, like replacing the pan, and the JB Weld.
If you replace the pan, I believe you will have to raise the engine.
Honestly, I would make the attempt at repairing the pan with it in the car.
If the broken piece locks right in/no missing pieces, and the sealing surface on the broken piece is uncompromised, then the critical part is maintaining the flat surface for your gasket, as bww mentioned.
The upper sealing surface of the pan is perfectly flat. I would do a 'dry run' by placing a flat metal surface across, & on top of the broken area. This would keep the broken part of the oil pan surface perfectly flat against it.
A couple of mini C-clamps would join up the oil pan with your flat stabilizing surface.
If this can be made to work, then use the JB Weld & rejoin the pieces as described. Make sure that none of the JB Weld oozes through the top!
As long as you meet the requirement for the flat surface, it should be successful.
If if doesn't work, you're out for the cost of materials, and you'd do plan 'B' & buy a new/used oil pan.
Best of luck!

dodson55

iTrader: (18)

any pics of the damage if its not to bad i would tig it and run it but if its to bad i would scrap it and get another pan if you can post pics it will help detemine you best solution

oxblood!z28

gonna try to post the pics tonight.

oxblood!z28

I hope this picture went through. I was told I could get away with it. but want to know your thoughts. So it can be removed and tightend back up but the torque won't be uniform across the pan.

ausls1

As gMAG said have a go at fixing it, personally i'd pull the sump off and try and fix it off the vehicle, will make it a little easier, or look for a second hand one from a wreckers or someone that's put an aftermarket sump on, might only be $50-$100 and less head aches.

I'v seen Alloy rocker covers break in the corners like that and been fixed, so can be done, but they usually broke after a couple off times going on and off again, although a sump doesn't usually have that same removal rate.

parks450

iTrader: (17)

I'd try to fix it, it looks like it should lock right back in its spot.