Going 85 mm MAF
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Going 85 mm MAF Trying to remove the IAT off the lid to solve the heatsoak issue on it for me.
Plan A get 2 couplers for it.
1. SLP lid to 85mm MAF. ???
2. 85mm MAF to 78mm stock throttle body. ???
Plan B get 1 coupler and a FTP 98mm lid
2. 85mm MAF to 78mm stock throttle body. ???
Plan A seems cheapest, I'm thinking a 3 3/4 to 4 inch? and a 4 inch to 4 inch?
Does that sound right?
Plan B will look nicer, MAF inside lid and a 4 inch to 4 inch that needs to be how long?
Plan A get 2 couplers for it.
1. SLP lid to 85mm MAF. ???
2. 85mm MAF to 78mm stock throttle body. ???
Plan B get 1 coupler and a FTP 98mm lid
2. 85mm MAF to 78mm stock throttle body. ???
Plan A seems cheapest, I'm thinking a 3 3/4 to 4 inch? and a 4 inch to 4 inch?
Does that sound right?
Plan B will look nicer, MAF inside lid and a 4 inch to 4 inch that needs to be how long?
Trying to remove the IAT off the lid to solve the heatsoak issue on it for me.
Plan A get 2 couplers for it.
1. SLP lid to 85mm MAF. ???
2. 85mm MAF to 78mm stock throttle body. ???
Plan B get 1 coupler and a FTP 98mm lid
2. 85mm MAF to 78mm stock throttle body. ???
Plan A seems cheapest, I'm thinking a 3 3/4 to 4 inch? and a 4 inch to 4 inch?
Does that sound right?
Plan B will look nicer, MAF inside lid and a 4 inch to 4 inch that needs to be how long?
Plan A get 2 couplers for it.
1. SLP lid to 85mm MAF. ???
2. 85mm MAF to 78mm stock throttle body. ???
Plan B get 1 coupler and a FTP 98mm lid
2. 85mm MAF to 78mm stock throttle body. ???
Plan A seems cheapest, I'm thinking a 3 3/4 to 4 inch? and a 4 inch to 4 inch?
Does that sound right?
Plan B will look nicer, MAF inside lid and a 4 inch to 4 inch that needs to be how long?
Using the IAT built into the MAF will be even hotter, as you're locating it further inside the engine compartment.
You're blowing money on a MAF that won't gain you any HP, and that will cost more money to get it tuned.
Why not get a pigtail or an extension from Caspers and locate the IAT somewhere else?
Just my opinion.
Thread Starter
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Joined: Nov 2005
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Actually it's taking heat from the FTRA area that's been opened up underneath the lid. I have HP Tuners so I can just recalibrate the MAF and I never asked or claimed I would be doing this for any HP gain. Finally I'm just thinking of cleaning up the area a bit. I've noted through logging that the heat off the rad + ac can heat soak the IAT since its almost nearly directly over the rad.
I wanted a response to the couplers, please stick to answering the question asked.
I wanted a response to the couplers, please stick to answering the question asked.
Last edited by SladeX; May 13, 2012 at 09:56 PM.
Excuse the **** out of me for trying to give a bit of insight. Never said you couldn't calibrate it, but I'd like to think if you can calibrate for a new MAF, you can bust out a tape measure and see what size silicone coupler you need.
I'd personally use an extension and get the IAT down into the FTRA where there's only cool air not inhibited by the radiator.
I'd personally use an extension and get the IAT down into the FTRA where there's only cool air not inhibited by the radiator.
Using the gm MAF a 3.75" coupler seems to fit a lot better than a 4". The couplers I was using wouldn't even tighten on it without using a 4" to 3.75" reducer sleeve.
For what you are trying to do, go with option B IMO, then you at least get the better lid to go with it.
BTW my IATs did not change more than 1-2* with the swap. The moving air doesn't have much time to heat up. Same reason I call BS on the aluminum intake "heat soak" issue that everyone wants to blame but can never prove with real results.
For what you are trying to do, go with option B IMO, then you at least get the better lid to go with it.
BTW my IATs did not change more than 1-2* with the swap. The moving air doesn't have much time to heat up. Same reason I call BS on the aluminum intake "heat soak" issue that everyone wants to blame but can never prove with real results.
I've been down this road. The in-MAF IAT was better
than the airbox IAT (esp on Blackwing where it's put
in the back corner, seeing engine bay heat and no
airflow to speak of). But it's only a matter of degree
(heh). Outside the engine bay is where you want to be.
The SLP MAF (Delphi 85mm) came with a cut-off piece
of a Fernco specialty coupler. Don't have the number
handy, but posted it long ago. It's OK with the Blackwing
boot but I couldn't say about other lids. Probably best
to measure ODs and length, and order a Baker hose to fit.
than the airbox IAT (esp on Blackwing where it's put
in the back corner, seeing engine bay heat and no
airflow to speak of). But it's only a matter of degree
(heh). Outside the engine bay is where you want to be.
The SLP MAF (Delphi 85mm) came with a cut-off piece
of a Fernco specialty coupler. Don't have the number
handy, but posted it long ago. It's OK with the Blackwing
boot but I couldn't say about other lids. Probably best
to measure ODs and length, and order a Baker hose to fit.
Me and a buddy got bored a day or two ago and put his 85mm MAF out of his truck into my T/A to see how well it cleaned things up and it fit my FTP 98mm and SLP Bellow perfect, looked even cleaner without the IAT going to the lid. If money's no option I'd go with option B and get the FTP lid.
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Thread Starter
TECH Addict
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 2,379
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I did measure and came up with "guesstimates" on what I might need but we know how well measuring one thing is, then ordering and "discovering" the reality. This is the case when I see all the different couplings online and "measurements" of products only to discover when you get it on that a) it doesn't fit without significant "massaging" or not at all, or you got it bang on the first shot.
I figure the question was simple to answer and believed a few people have figured out something already rather than me being the 10000 person to do trial and error.
The problem I am describing happens when you let the car sit after running it. It runs lean due to the IAT being heatsoaked and takes time for it to recover. It's more exaggerated if you run the a/c. I stalled out my car today because I switched on the a/c within 5 seconds of starting it. Immediately restart, wait 15 sec, and then I can run the a/c. I've logged it and found the IAT is some ridiculous temperature.
I may opt to order the FTP lid later this summer, but for now, looks like 2 3 3/4 to 4 inch pieces may be in order then.
I figure the question was simple to answer and believed a few people have figured out something already rather than me being the 10000 person to do trial and error.
The problem I am describing happens when you let the car sit after running it. It runs lean due to the IAT being heatsoaked and takes time for it to recover. It's more exaggerated if you run the a/c. I stalled out my car today because I switched on the a/c within 5 seconds of starting it. Immediately restart, wait 15 sec, and then I can run the a/c. I've logged it and found the IAT is some ridiculous temperature.
I may opt to order the FTP lid later this summer, but for now, looks like 2 3 3/4 to 4 inch pieces may be in order then.
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