BBK Header Install questions
#1
Launching!
Thread Starter
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: neversink, ny
Posts: 297
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Installing a set of BBK longtubes.. and have a few questions.
A) How high do I need the car.. i was going to drive it up on rhino ramps, and see if that was enough.
B) what tools do I need besides standard stuff. I've been reading the tutorials. Do i need to torque the header bolts? Can i use the BBK supplied gasket with a high temp gasket sealer?
C) This is not stock manifold to header.. this is header to header swap. Is there much to remove in this case now, besides the standard stuff i've been reading.
Anything I'm forgetting, chime in please!
A) How high do I need the car.. i was going to drive it up on rhino ramps, and see if that was enough.
B) what tools do I need besides standard stuff. I've been reading the tutorials. Do i need to torque the header bolts? Can i use the BBK supplied gasket with a high temp gasket sealer?
C) This is not stock manifold to header.. this is header to header swap. Is there much to remove in this case now, besides the standard stuff i've been reading.
Anything I'm forgetting, chime in please!
Last edited by ripgtp97; 06-15-2012 at 02:33 PM.
#2
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Referenced from another thread right after i did my install
"Are you going to be accessible to a lift and alot of tools? Start with removing the Y pipe and then work your way up. The nuts holding the cats will strip so its easier to just start removing the exhaust manifold bolts. They will come out smoothly we had no problems. We also cleaned them off with a brush wheel on a grinder and make sure to use anti seize. Then remove the manifolds and take out your plugs. Gap your new plugs to .043" (thats what a reputable speed shop told me that mainly deals with ls motors.) You will have to remove the oil dipstick. The driver side should go on without having to remove the steering shaft. But its key to have at least 2-3 people with you and alot of tools. I was able to install mine in 6 hours
You will need a swivel head 3/8" ratchet with alot of different extensions. I remember using a 10mm socket on almost everything. Make sure to install your header gaskets correctly in two sequences working from the middle outwards. final torque is 18 ft lbs, i used my calibrated elbow haha
Blood, Sweat, and Beers! "
"Are you going to be accessible to a lift and alot of tools? Start with removing the Y pipe and then work your way up. The nuts holding the cats will strip so its easier to just start removing the exhaust manifold bolts. They will come out smoothly we had no problems. We also cleaned them off with a brush wheel on a grinder and make sure to use anti seize. Then remove the manifolds and take out your plugs. Gap your new plugs to .043" (thats what a reputable speed shop told me that mainly deals with ls motors.) You will have to remove the oil dipstick. The driver side should go on without having to remove the steering shaft. But its key to have at least 2-3 people with you and alot of tools. I was able to install mine in 6 hours
You will need a swivel head 3/8" ratchet with alot of different extensions. I remember using a 10mm socket on almost everything. Make sure to install your header gaskets correctly in two sequences working from the middle outwards. final torque is 18 ft lbs, i used my calibrated elbow haha
Blood, Sweat, and Beers! "
#3
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
*Buy a new GM manifold gasket. BBK one is junk
*Try to get a couple impacts if you can if you have compressed air nearby
*Get your confidence up by doing the driver side first because the passenger side is a pain in the ***
*Try to get a couple impacts if you can if you have compressed air nearby
*Get your confidence up by doing the driver side first because the passenger side is a pain in the ***
#4
TECH Senior Member
iTrader: (35)
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Rhino ramps, then jack it up until the tires are just off the ramps then put it on jack stands; that's high enough. Spray wd40 (or similar) around all the header bolts the night before if possible. IMO, don't use a impact gun on the header bolts. Put a light coat of anti-seize on the header bolts when installing them, then torque all the header bolts to spec to help prevent any possible exhaust leaks.
BTW, header to header change is easier!
BTW, header to header change is easier!
#6
Staging Lane
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Raleigh, NC
Posts: 88
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
If you haven't started yet...I HIGHLY suggest getting some wd-40, liquid wrench, or equivalent, and spraying it heavily on each header bolt 2-3 times a day for at least a week before the install. Just don't start the car right after you do it...please. Fires are not what you are after.
The purpose behind it is so that you give the penetrating oil a chance to work its way into the threads of the bolts. The first few header jobs I did I broke at least 3 bolts. Due to the nature of what they hold up, they rattle, rust, and become weaker. I had this work on my 99 Tahoe, my friends 98 Cobra, and more recently, on a Mustang 302.
The purpose behind it is so that you give the penetrating oil a chance to work its way into the threads of the bolts. The first few header jobs I did I broke at least 3 bolts. Due to the nature of what they hold up, they rattle, rust, and become weaker. I had this work on my 99 Tahoe, my friends 98 Cobra, and more recently, on a Mustang 302.
#7
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I can testify that we sprayed some liquid wrench a few hours before we start the swap and the header bolts came out fine. Just clean them up and apply anti seize when you re-use them
Trending Topics
#8
Launching!
Thread Starter
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: neversink, ny
Posts: 297
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Sounds good guys, i'll be spraying them this week. I picked up a set of MLS gaskets from ws6. I have never seize all ready.. Anything else I"m forgetting before i dig into her!
#9
Teching In
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Clarkston,Mi
Posts: 15
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Just did my BBK's. I have a full size service floor jack under the front crossmember and that got it high enough. I put i 2 inch board on top. I think my jack lifts 24". Both sides went in very easily. They say the drivers side can be tough but mine went right in. That jack is one of the best things I ever bought. Only like $120 or so at O'reillys. Get one you won't regret it.
#10
TECH Enthusiast
iTrader: (7)
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
As stated... Rhino ramps then jacked it up and put stands under. These headers were cake to install. Did it with no help (another pair of hands would have saved me about 45 minutes) and the hardest part was trying to hold the header and get the first bolt started. I would recommend changing your plugs if you have not done this already........ The only thing that gave me a problem was the BBK y pipe bumped up to the factory I pipe. Had to bring it in to get it welded nice and neat. Clamp did not do the job since the pipes did not overlap each other.
Get the stock gaskets also.... BBK gasket is straight garbage.
Get the stock gaskets also.... BBK gasket is straight garbage.