MFJ

iTrader: (4)

I finally put the Ebay LT's on, custom y pipe, Monster clutch, tick m/c and Frost tune and now I don't even want to drive the car. I hate the sound, it feels a lot slower and definitely has lost torque. It sounds like a damn F-1 car now. I didn't do the Poly mounts. I know...I know...do the mounts.

It sounds like I have an exhaust leak, but I can't find it. Spent 2 hours this morning putting heater hose and clamps on the pieces of the Y that are beating the **** out of the floorboard. Rasp from the Stainless headers is irritating too.

When I get on it I can here popping in the exhaust, like a miss. I'm assuming the knock sensors are detecting the shitty exhaust hitting the torque arm and floor and causing it.

I used to enjoy driving it now I want to burn it to the ground.

Is it possible to actually lose performance doing the mods that I did?

Blk98Vert

iTrader: (2)

No it isnt. What exhaust do you have

TXZ28LS1

iTrader: (5)

I didnt replace my motor mounts either!! Plus i threw a cam on there.

99french

iTrader: (7)

Just get some replacement rubber mounts to keep that **** from banging the floor pan. U will hear some more valve train events but if it's a ton maybe u bent a push rod or two. But with it banging around it probably is setting the knock sensors off. Did ya do new plugs or even drop one? New plugs can be bad from the factory. Plus what catback do u have. My car was night an day diffeence sou d wise from a LM1 to a magnaflow. Maybe u freed up too much awesome

MFJ

iTrader: (4)

Stainless 1 3/4" ebay headers, 3" collector (more like 2 3/4"), 2 1/2" y pipe (made by a local exhaust shop) and stock from the I pipe back.

MFJ

iTrader: (4)

Car ran pretty strong before the headers. No missing at all. I did plugs NGK TR55's and wires when I did the headers.

GiggleJuiced_SS

iTrader: (31)

i dont see why it would run slower. i didnt even do a tune after my exhaust and still have the SES to prove it . i dont want to sound like a d*ck but check the simple things, make sure all the plug wires on pushed on and not burnt. my buddy came up with his older TA because it was running like crap, turned out to be a burnt plug wire from his headers. just throwin out ideas.

Blk98Vert

iTrader: (2)

Get a real y pipe and a real exhaust

sepsis

iTrader: (7)

When my collector was banging against the floor board, it ran like **** because the knock sensor would feel it. I used my air hammer and made some room, now it's perfect. I even installed poly mounts and it was still bangin.

I'd like to see a pic of this "custom ory."

My6speedZ

iTrader: (18)

I agree with replacing the cat-back. If you hate the rasp go true dual.

justin hover

You really should've thought this through alittle... Mmounts 75% of the time are a must, It's easiest to change plugs when the stock manifolds are out. 100$ more and you could've had proven quality headers (pacesetter)..Looks like you wanted to go the cheap route and this is what happens.....Agreed on the rasp eliminating duals though..++ on that....I've had flowmaster and LM and they both hit a nasty rasp at 2k rpm. Now with duals, at 2k rpms it truly sounds like beast with not a hint of rasp.

2win_SS

iTrader: (1)

Check simple things like plugs and wires. Bolt ons shouldn't have caused a Loss... Only Gains

MFJ

iTrader: (4)

I only had so much money to work with. My clutch was shot I had to get a clutch and a m/c and that ate up most of my money. The plan was to ride the car for 6 months like this and then finish the exhaust and suspension.


The only muffler shop I found was 2 hours away that would do a true dual over the axle and they wanted more money to do it than I could afford. Around here they dump them at the axle. Which I guess would be way better than having the rasp.


I'm going to check the plugs and wires again. But the Y pipe is resting against the torque arm. I don't know how much the torque arm moves when driving or under acceleration but if it moves any it's pushing on the Y pipe when it does.

TransamGCS

iTrader: (2)

definitely look at replacing your motor mounts any slight bang in the exhaust and the knock sensor will activate and pull your timing causing a loss in horse power.
you can also try an exhaust bump stop. thunder racing sells them here is a link

http://www.thunderracing.com/shop-by...anger_528.html

14k

Could that banging pull timing and cause the rpms to drop to say 450 just idling in D? Mine bangs not hard but I get an occasionally dip ONLY in drive idling. Nowhere else.

MFJ

iTrader: (4)

Looks like that might work. I'm still gonna do the engine and tranny mounts and more than likely get a new Y pipe.

Checked the plugs and wires. Everything looks good. It's got to be the knock sensors.

It's only the Y that's hitting. The headers aren't but it still sounds like an exhaust leak somewhere up front. Gonna try and find that next.

MFJ

iTrader: (4)

What did it sound like when it happened? If you really want a pic I'll take one, but it doesn't look like anything special to me.

TransamGCS

iTrader: (2)

i wouldnt think so i would maybe look at your IAC maybe clean it up and see if it helps

hiram007

iTrader: (19)

like every else said, check the motor mounts, that will help. I never had these issues and I didnt even replace the mounts. I am always a bit skeptical about using ebay headers.

My6speedZ

iTrader: (18)

Man if your Y pipe is messed up that bad. I would take that poorly mad POS back to the muffler shop and tell them to fix their shoddy half assed work. That is unacceptable.

Next time just buy quality parts, if you can't pay to play. Then save to pay. This hobby is not cheap and when you try and chintz, it ends up costing you more.