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How restrictive are non-mandrel bends?

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Old Jul 10, 2012 | 01:08 AM
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Default How restrictive are non-mandrel bends?

I had my custom 2.5" true duals fabbed up and it looks great except for the way he fab'd the H-pipe. Having said that, the car feels a tad slower. It seems to rev much slower too. I'm looking to re-fab the H-pipe but wondering if I should step up to a mandrel 3" setup like the Kooks True duals.

Thoughts?
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Old Jul 10, 2012 | 04:47 PM
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Are asking because you think your problem is not that you did not go mandrel ? Can you post pics of your new system.
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Old Jul 10, 2012 | 05:20 PM
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If you were to put a mandrel bent 90 next to a muffler shop bent 90, you wouldn't even ask this question. A 2.5" mandrel will out flow a 3" muffler shop job.
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Old Jul 11, 2012 | 02:31 PM
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Originally Posted by 02TransAm/Batmobile
I had my custom 2.5" true duals fabbed up and it looks great except for the way he fab'd the H-pipe. Having said that, the car feels a tad slower. It seems to rev much slower too. I'm looking to re-fab the H-pipe but wondering if I should step up to a mandrel 3" setup like the Kooks True duals.

Thoughts?
Can you post up pics of your complete system !
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Old Jul 11, 2012 | 02:52 PM
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Originally Posted by farmington
If you were to put a mandrel bent 90 next to a muffler shop bent 90, you wouldn't even ask this question. A 2.5" mandrel will out flow a 3" muffler shop job.
First of all this is going to upset a lot of you mandrel only fans, by what I going to say. There are a few variables that enter into this that need to be considered when comparing mandrel to typical pipe bender machines. But its not true in most cases that 2.5 mandrel will out flow 3.
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Old Jul 11, 2012 | 03:04 PM
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Depends on the type of machine they have, I've seen some that use crush benders which look like a bendy straw.

My exhaust guy uses a machine that stretches the pipe. Doesn't create those accordion looking ridges and works just fine.
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Old Jul 11, 2012 | 04:48 PM
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Originally Posted by thunderstruck507
Depends on the type of machine they have, I've seen some that use crush benders which look like a bendy straw.

My exhaust guy uses a machine that stretches the pipe. Doesn't create those accordion looking ridges and works just fine.
How true ,it depends the pipe bender the shop uses, some are good some are bad. One of the better benders is a Ben Pearson . Im tired of guys putting the mouth on crush bends ,when most do not know what they are talking about.
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Old Jul 11, 2012 | 05:09 PM
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Originally Posted by thunderstruck507
Depends on the type of machine they have, I've seen some that use crush benders which look like a bendy straw.
thats funny!
anyway:
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Old Jul 11, 2012 | 06:16 PM
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Pics are needed, a non mandrel system is fine if designed correctly
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Old Jul 31, 2012 | 10:57 PM
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OK, here's the pics:



















I don't like the H-pipe. I feel like the gas velocity off the driver's side will flow through the H part, instead of out through the back and slow down the passenger side down.

I've purchased a universal H-pipe from Jegs for 45 bucks and will get in to a shop soon.
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Old Aug 1, 2012 | 03:42 AM
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yeah that looks horrible
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Old Aug 1, 2012 | 07:57 AM
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Everything looked good until the last pic. That H pipe or whatever it is is only hurting things.
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Old Aug 1, 2012 | 08:38 AM
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That is some nasty nasty work on the hpipe. Can't really tell the quality of the rest of the exhaust, but based on that part alone I would run far far away from any more "custom" work they do.
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Old Aug 1, 2012 | 08:42 AM
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As the others have said, aside from that crossover, I wouldn't have an issue running that until you need bigger pipe anyway.

My car keeps picking up every time I upgrade or fix small little things in my 3" system. If you bother getting it redone, get 3" to start and leave yourself room to grow.
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Old Aug 1, 2012 | 09:53 AM
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That system can still be saved . Actually with the exception of H pipe placement, its not a bad design, the driver side is better than most TDs. That is probably the worst placement of the H . Just go with a 2" crossover where the pipes start to run parallel, the traditional placement or better yet go with a X. The most important thing is that shop does have a good bender , try to work with them and get it right.
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Old Aug 1, 2012 | 12:04 PM
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Considering you have those pipes siamesed that closely, buy a nice universal X and have it placed in there. Get rid of the H.
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Old Aug 1, 2012 | 02:04 PM
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Yea, I knew I would have to fix up the H-pipe but overall I am really happy with its construction and more importantly how he meticulously tucked it.

So if I cut out the H-pipe portion and have them weld in my universal JEG's H-pipe, how do you think this non-mandrel bent 2.5" looks in terms of flow? I'm thinking of selling this True Dual and purchasing the Kooks TD system.
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Old Aug 1, 2012 | 02:50 PM
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Installing a X or H wouldn't even be a priority for me honestly so much as just getting that turbulence inducing thing out of there.
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Old Aug 1, 2012 | 03:41 PM
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Originally Posted by thunderstruck507
Installing a X or H wouldn't even be a priority for me honestly so much as just getting that turbulence inducing thing out of there.
What do mean? I plan on cutting out that section where the H-pipe is and fabbing up my universal one.
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Old Aug 2, 2012 | 12:58 AM
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damn that doesn't look like it'll flow very well. Post pics when you get it taken care of. Otherwise it looks like a pretty nice set up..post a vid if you can too! So you can do a comparison video and see how big of a difference it is.
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