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No idea yet. The front drive kit I'm doing for both the truck and LS1 fbody setup has a huge amount of belt wrap. I plan on doing an arduino data logger during some dyno runs to monitor engine and blower rpm, boost, and see what the slip % is. Here's a pic of the latest truck version. Ls1 to follow in a few days.
The 4.8 that had a set, along with a mild NA cam made 520 at the wheels on a dynojet. I think it was about 10psi. I can get the graphs from my tuner. The ls1/ls2 guys using my front drive kit make 12psi, and about 600 ish hp.
the fbody/gto kit makes roughly 12psi on a 6.0, slightly more on the 5.7. Good for about 620hp. Im trying to round up dyno sheets from customers for you guys.
I have a question and if it isn't okay in this post please ignore it or tell me I'm a idiot whatever lol. I want to build a turbo 6.0 or 6.2 as I can afford to. Probably finishing it in a year give or take. I have a 5.3 that I am going to do a trial run turbo set up since I have no turbo experience id rather learn on a $500 vs a $5000 motor. With that being said I was trying to find as many things that I could buy that will work on either engine so I'm not buying double everything. This adapter that goes from the ls3 style ports to cathedral port would really help me with this. I would be using a Edelbrock Super Vic with ls3 ports. Do you think that this would work for what I am trying to do? What would the cons if I didn't put the turbos on it and went with nitrous instead of turbos while still maintaining your adapter adapt the super Vic with accufab 4- barrel throttle body to the cathedral heads? Thanks for your time I greatly appreciate any info and knowledge your willing to share.
These were not designed to convert a square port manifold to cathedral. The entry angle would not work and would actually hinder flow. If you go that route just buy the correct manifold. I see you want to go ls3 heads eventually, just sell the manifold when you build the ls3 and buy the right one. These won't work in your application. I mean, technically they will work, but they won't be ideal by any means.
Originally Posted by not4hire
I have a question and if it isn't okay in this post please ignore it or tell me I'm a idiot whatever lol. I want to build a turbo 6.0 or 6.2 as I can afford to. Probably finishing it in a year give or take. I have a 5.3 that I am going to do a trial run turbo set up since I have no turbo experience id rather learn on a $500 vs a $5000 motor. With that being said I was trying to find as many things that I could buy that will work on either engine so I'm not buying double everything. This adapter that goes from the ls3 style ports to cathedral port would really help me with this. I would be using a Edelbrock Super Vic with ls3 ports. Do you think that this would work for what I am trying to do? What would the cons if I didn't put the turbos on it and went with nitrous instead of turbos while still maintaining your adapter adapt the super Vic with accufab 4- barrel throttle body to the cathedral heads? Thanks for your time I greatly appreciate any info and knowledge your willing to share.
the fbody/gto kit makes roughly 12psi on a 6.0, slightly more on the 5.7. Good for about 620hp. Im trying to round up dyno sheets from customers for you guys.
Any chance some of your customers have posted up dyno results?
4.8 with a crappy NA cam made 520whp at 10psi with a stock upper. LS2 guys are making mid 600s with the 2.45 that comes with the kit. no dyno sheets as of yet. Guys arent very good at getting back to me.
No idea yet. The front drive kit I'm doing for both the truck and LS1 fbody setup has a huge amount of belt wrap. I plan on doing an arduino data logger during some dyno runs to monitor engine and blower rpm, boost, and see what the slip % is. Here's a pic of the latest truck version. Ls1 to follow in a few days.
If you don't mind me asking what setup/components are you using to monitor blower RPM? I am trying to come up with something that would work on a centri blower.
math.....lower pulley diameter:upper diameter. we can watch slip in the ECU with a PD blower. A lot harder to do with a centri. You could use a dual channel optical sensor but I havent had time to build one yet.
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