Ram Air Through Hood vs. SSRA??
#1
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Why would the SSRA and similar be better than the factory ram air through the hood? I've been searching and looking at my car and obviously there is a block off plate in the hood that I'll probably remove but why do SLP, fasttoys, SSRA suck from the bottom?
Last edited by maxpower_454; 03-06-2013 at 08:07 AM.
#2
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i think you'd have a better chance drawing water if you had a ram air setup leading directly to the lid. whereas the aftermarket kits at least require the water to travel UP a couple feet.
also, i believe more air is drawn in under the bumper than above the bumper. the wind hitting the car deflects and most likely is somewhat turbulant by the time it reaches the ram air scoops on the hood. whereas the air going under the bumper has a straight shot with little to no deflection off of any body parts.
also, i believe more air is drawn in under the bumper than above the bumper. the wind hitting the car deflects and most likely is somewhat turbulant by the time it reaches the ram air scoops on the hood. whereas the air going under the bumper has a straight shot with little to no deflection off of any body parts.
#5
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This is probably what your looking for.
http://www.ws6project.com/user_stor/...6-ram-air-kit/
But I'd put money on it that a SSRA/Chris1313/Fast Toys ram air setup would show more gains at the drag strip (non if them work on a dyno because the car isn't moving).
http://www.ws6project.com/user_stor/...6-ram-air-kit/
But I'd put money on it that a SSRA/Chris1313/Fast Toys ram air setup would show more gains at the drag strip (non if them work on a dyno because the car isn't moving).
#6
#7
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If you knock out the baffles and put some weatherstripping around the perimeter of the inside opening, you'll have a sealed direct path of cold air into your airbox. The "bottom feeder" systems run the risk of sucking water from puddles, hot air from the pavement at idle, and blocking airflow from the radiator. My opinion - if you have the hood scoops, make them functional and use them.
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#8
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What RevGTO says. That's what I did and have no problems. Water still has to travel uphill through the filter. I've driven in rain and then quickly took the filter off to check it and it didn't even feel damp.
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I did the SLP cold air induction mod on my car last year paired with the K&N filter and a ported SLP Lid. Even with it untuned, I noticed better throttle response and some gains, but once I got the tune, it made a hell of a difference. Also, the duct only reaches about halfway down the radiator, so you would have to hit a pretty damn big puddle to even get water past the duct.
Here are some pictures of my install attached.
Here are some pictures of my install attached.
#11
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I wouldn't worry about hydolocking your engine from any hood/bumper fed system as I've drove in downpours on the highway with no issues. Kits that feed from under the car have a higher chance of killing the engine.
#16
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What benefits did the BGRA have over just debaffling and sealing the hood to the intake?? Did it have inserts that go into the hood? that's kind of what it looks like in this pic
https://ls1tech.com/forums/attachmen...30_3967903.jpg
https://ls1tech.com/forums/attachmen...30_3967903.jpg
#17
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What benefits did the BGRA have over just debaffling and sealing the hood to the intake?? Did it have inserts that go into the hood? that's kind of what it looks like in this pic
https://ls1tech.com/forums/attachmen...30_3967903.jpg
https://ls1tech.com/forums/attachmen...30_3967903.jpg
#19
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There are a few people out there with the Ram Air hood, but if the housing where the filter sits doesn't have a gap underneath it to where you can stick your hand underneath, the modification would be pointless. I personally debaffled my hood, all you have to do is use a dremel tool to cut the rivet heads off and a punch or screwdriver to punch them inwards. Afterwards it will loosen up and you can pull it out from the inside. My TA is a Daily Driver and I have never had issues with water going into the filter housing. The SLP Cold Air Intake comes with a rubber to help seal. The car responds much better with air coming up from the bottom and the Ram Air. So much air it whistles!! Might as well get full use out the Ram Air...
Last edited by 02ScreaminChickenLS1; 03-11-2013 at 11:32 AM.
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I know this is an old thread but I too removed the factory air baffles and sealed the air box and can definitely feel a difference power wise, especially over 50-60 mph. I got some 1" by 1 1/2" foam tape from Home Depot for about 7 bucks used for sealing up leaky doors and things and sealed the box perfectly. Haven't had any problems with since it was done about 6 months ago and I have also driven through some torrential down pours here in south Louisiana.