I never liked the idea of cutting the I and putting
the Flowtech in the middle. Instead I went and got
some stainless header stubs (3") from Summit and
cut one diagonal from minimum 1/2" remaining stub,
to full (4"?) length and had it welded onto the back
of my I-pipe, right where it makes the first bend up
to the axle arch. This gives the exhaust a straight
shot out the hole, when open (1st, 5th pic). Being out
back the little bit of exhaust whisper out the plate
is not distinguishable from what comes out the tips
close by. Closed, that is A tiny bit more back-
pressure than closer-in, perhaps, or not; just a bit
more 3" pipe, but no change-of-direction.

For the switch rather than bugger up my dash, I
mounted it down on the driver's seat - out of sight
but right there handy. I took power right off the
power seat feed and fished the cable up there
under the carpet. There is just barely room for the
switch I got with the McCord (which is nice and
small) to fit there (2nd, 3rd, 4th pic).

Just another way to go, I think it came out pretty
smooth.

 

awesome man, good job. love that switch like that

 

Clean install, but will it do any good that far back? I don't know, I'm by NO means an expert in exhaust, but it seems like the farther to the front the better it would do, as far as making power.

Switch looks AWESOME, and if the cutout makes good power there, I'd rather have one there myself. Matter of fact, I might wind up installing one that way ANYWAY, just because it has to sound better like that, inside the car anyway!

Great Idea, you get from me!

 

Very creative, great looking install!!!!

 

That's a great idea and the switch is very clean looking.

 

Very nice ideas, I like it!

 

That is by far the best looking cutout install that i've ever seen.

 

very nice

I was going to do similar, but off to the side, for my corsa, just weld a 3" piece of pipe on there, and drill the stainless out, so the I pipe keeps its structure..

... but that has given me a great new idea.... so simple.. i wonder why nobody has done it before.

it will be the new "Jimmyblue" cutout, to replace the old Zed style cutouts, lol

I don't think im going to drill the new seats i bought from you, but i already have the switch taken care of, But that was a great location

Ryan.

Ryan.

 

wow, that switch install is sweet! good job man

 

That cutout location has been done before...

Killer switch though

 

makes sense, just in the 50 or so cutout pic posts i've only seen I pipe, Y pipe, and Zed style ones.

Ryan.

 

Nice writeup and I wonder out of wander and curosity if you make more horsepower from that angle and location. I am no exhaust expert either. However, I have true duals dumped right before the rear axle with all kinds of vibration and sound. So I guess I already have a good setup exhaust wise. That is by far the best switch that looks factory for the cutout. You have to be commended for a job well done. Cheers and good luck with the mod. Before you race someone on the street or from a redlight or stop sign, just tell them I need to make a seat adjustment before takeoff and

 

That looks great. Its the same way my cutout is. I think that it flows better than the flowtech because its straight out.

 

I did a few quick highway pulls & logged the engine
"delivered torque" PID in HPTuners. I think there's
something funny about that (or my car is just a wimp
for torque) but aside from scaling, the cutout open
yields a pretty visible gain over closed at the big end.
This is through stock manifolds & cats still. See pic:

[edit: this was an old release of HPTuners, before they
fixed the scaling on the Delivered Torque PID; values
are about 2X now.]

 

Very nice cutout & switch install. It all looks very clean.

Do you have a link or part nummber from summit? I was also looking into something like this, but I was thinking of using a header colletor extension, but all I found them in was black steel, not stainless.

 

I used Summit P/N SUM-G4752SS which I found
in their online store. I bought all the stuff a little
over a year ago and just got around to doing the
work this last week.So there's a chance these
stainless "collector reducers" are obsoleted etc.,
but maybe you can turn them up. Price was $31.99
last year. They have to be available somewhere I
figure....

 

Looks awesome man, very clean install.

 

TTT so I don't have to search it out again

 

That is a nice looking swtihc and cutout. I'm thinking of starting a new thread about thise question but I'll see if I can get it answered here first.

I have heard a metallica rattling sound while under partial throttle at slow speeds. A mechanic told me to get the truck running hot then hit the cat's with a wrench and see if you hear anything. So I did this and here the same rattling sound. It sounds like part of the honeycomb is falling out and rumbling down the pipe. My question is could I or should I buy a cut out (non electric) and cut the cat and put it where the cat's used to be? My SES light is already on due to EGR take off. I really don't feel like paying 100 dollars a peice for new cat's. I have heard that unless you are going to cam it or what not that you shouldn't remove cats. No doubt I am losing power due to their current condition. Any .02 is oppreciated. My truck has 165k on it. Thanks

 

That switch is badass!!!