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Pacesetter LT Install

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Old Oct 10, 2013 | 10:15 AM
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Default Pacesetter LT Install

I am about to attempt putting on my LT headers and ORY. I am new at working on these cars. I have read through the write ups on here, and other places as well. Everyone seems to have different strategies, things they do differently and what not.

Any final tips to help me get these off and back on without tearing the entire engine bay apart? I'll also be doing motor mounts, going with the prothane mounts.

Thanks in advance.
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Old Oct 10, 2013 | 10:21 AM
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I don't think anyone can offer any more than what you may have read. Like you noticed, there are different approaches that people take to end up the same in the end. For example, I found it easier to remove the steering shaft rather than the oil filter -- but that's just how I did it.

The only thing I can really tell you is that using the factory scissor jack makes the motor mounts a LOT easier -- so definitely follow that advice.
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Old Oct 10, 2013 | 12:45 PM
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If you have access to a lift...your life will be 1000x easier. Otherwise, good luck. Its tight under there.
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Old Oct 10, 2013 | 03:59 PM
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I've installed many sets in my driveway on jackstands. Its not really advice, but there are a few different things you may find yourself doing to get them in. As stated before removing the steering arm and oil filter may help, but also taking the motor mounts loose and moving the motor side to side can help. For some sets I've even had to lower the tranny tailshaft to gain more room in the for the header to slide in. Some are easier from the top and some from the bottom.

Once installed, you should leave the header bolts a little lose untill you get the rest of the exhaust on
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Old Oct 11, 2013 | 07:46 AM
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Getting ready to off myself... lol!

I have most of the driver side off, no problems. The passenger side is absurd! Absolutely no room AT ALL! What can I take off in these pictures to gain access without releasing Freon, coolant, or destroying anything?



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Old Oct 11, 2013 | 07:55 AM
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Removing coil packs, wires and dipstick will give more room to get to bolts.
Header goes in from bottom. Are you doing motor mounts?
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Old Oct 11, 2013 | 08:13 AM
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I'd remove your spark plugs in addition to what was said above. They can crack easily.
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Old Oct 11, 2013 | 09:06 AM
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Good luck with install, take many breaks, beer helps. Remember youve got it easy compared to people going the true duals route
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Old Oct 11, 2013 | 09:07 AM
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If you have buddies, parents, co workers etc to help it never hurts.
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Old Oct 11, 2013 | 09:29 AM
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Got the coil assembly off. Slowly getting there, but I have to say this is a major pain in the ***. lol

Yes, I'm doing motor mounts. I'm a little confused as to which route I need to use in order to get the a/c compressor off (extremely difficult to get to the bolts). But that's coming next.
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Old Oct 11, 2013 | 09:29 AM
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Forgot to mention -
Dipstick is off as well.
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Old Oct 11, 2013 | 09:35 AM
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What is this in the red circle? It is a major PITA when trying to remove a/c compressor...
[IMG][/IMG]
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Old Oct 11, 2013 | 09:49 AM
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You [U]do not[U] have to remove any A/C to do mm or headers (I just did it). Unbolt the entire mm assembly from engine and frame, slide it out, replace w/poly, fully assemble and slide back in. Put mm bolts (both sides) in the opposite of how they came out for ease of access next time.
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Old Oct 11, 2013 | 10:07 AM
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That's your EGR valve. Are you removing your AIR system? If so, you can chuck that, too.
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Old Oct 11, 2013 | 10:20 AM
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Originally Posted by ragtopz28
You [U]do not[U] have to remove any A/C to do mm or headers (I just did it). Unbolt the entire mm assembly from engine and frame, slide it out, replace w/poly, fully assemble and slide back in. Put mm bolts (both sides) in the opposite of how they came out for ease of access next time.
Thanks for the heads up. Unfortunately, I already unbolted it. I don't know if it would've been much easier taking the entire assembly out. PITA!

Originally Posted by demonspeed
That's your EGR valve. Are you removing your AIR system? If so, you can chuck that, too.
I am leaving EGR intact, for now. When I upgrade the intake and tb I'll sh*tcan all of that.


I am making some ground now. I have a good pace established. You guys are a great help. Thanks!
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Old Oct 11, 2013 | 07:10 PM
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Well, I am proud to say that after 9 hours of work the douche on here sold me the wrong headers. Said they would fit a 99 z28, and they do not. They're for 00-02 years. That's what I get for trying to save money on here. Next time I'll just buy them from a legit source.
Grrrrr....
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Old Oct 11, 2013 | 08:38 PM
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I bought pacesetter headers that were on a 99 originally and am running them no prob on my 01. What exactly was wrong that they didn't work?
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Old Oct 11, 2013 | 10:50 PM
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EGR won't work. I need to be emissions legal in Pa. Is there a way around this so I can still pass my emissions test?
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Old Oct 11, 2013 | 11:42 PM
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You mean there are no EGR flanges coming off the headers like in the picture below? If so, then no...the only way you can fix that is to weld/fabricate an egr flange onto it.

The guy you bought them from didn't lie to you, they will work for your car, you just will have to delete the emissions.

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Old Oct 11, 2013 | 11:51 PM
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The EGR is set up for the 00-02 years, not the 98-99 emissions so they won't bolt up. I guess I will have to delete it.

What does that involve? I know I need a block off plate on the headers. What else?

I'm new to this, so stick with my noobness.

Thanks!
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