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need instant header install help

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Old May 6, 2004 | 01:26 AM
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Default need instant header install help

ok im in the middle of my install and i cant reach the back bolt on the drivers side or the back 2 on the passengers to remove the mainfold do i gotta remove something to get to em i read a how to that said the drivers side you had to remove the black shroud arround the steering colum but i dont see how that can be removed and im pritty clueless about the passengers
help...please!!!
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Old May 6, 2004 | 01:47 AM
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When I did my install, I was able to access all bolts on the driver side without removing anything. On the passenger side, I fought with the rear bolt for 1/2 hour, then finally removed the coil packs. Once they were gone, I had plenty of room to get the bolt out. The trick is to have a variety of 10mm tools. Use different combinations for different locations. Hope this helps.

Jeff
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Old May 6, 2004 | 01:59 AM
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on the drivers i can get the socket on it but have no room for a wrachet of the abilty to turn it
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Old May 6, 2004 | 02:00 AM
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on the passengers do you get the last to from up top or the bottom?
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Old May 6, 2004 | 02:46 AM
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also my 2nd to last (back twards fire wall) bolt on the pasengers side is kinda striped what can i do to get that one out......man this is really turning to an install form hell
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Old May 6, 2004 | 05:03 AM
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I got all the bolts out from the top. When I put the headers in, I reinstalled the passenger rear bolt from the bottom, all others from the top.

Is the head stripped, or does is feel like the threads are stripped in the head?
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Old May 6, 2004 | 05:46 AM
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Craftsman makes an angle-head rachet wrench. Looks like a standard wrench, but, the head swivels and there is a ratchet wheel inside the boxed end. If you drop the passenger side catatytic converter section, you can get to it without much problem. I cut off a good wrench with my Skill saw and a metal-cutting blade and got it that way from underneath. I didn't discover the Craftsman ratcheting wrench until I had to go back under and re-torque that rear head bolt a couple of moths after installation. Afte rthe headers seat, you'll want to go re-torque the bolts, but, only firmly. You don't want to break the bolt off in the head. But, you know that now. Congrat's on the header install.
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Old May 6, 2004 | 07:34 AM
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Take off the coil packs...makes everything easier. And have fun with the last passenger side coil pack bolt, thats the real bolt youll struggle with. For removing the passenger side manifold bolts, you can get the last one from the bottom much easier. For the next to last one, get somebody underneath the car to hold a wrench/socket on the bolt while somebody up top turns it. That has worked for me during two installs...
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Old May 6, 2004 | 07:55 AM
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Gear wreches are your friend in taking out the header bolts. makes the job real easy and quick

JR
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Old May 6, 2004 | 09:40 AM
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the bolt is striped on the head.. im off to the autoparts store for a breaker bar(cats) and angle head wrachet.... ill let you know how it goes... but what can i od about the bolt that is striped form the head?? also by coil pack do you all mean the thing electronics that have the bolts in them or the wire running to the spark plug alll ive removed is some of the wires connecting to the plugs
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Old May 6, 2004 | 10:14 AM
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maybe try one of these

http://www.sears.com/sr/craftsman/wh...OOL&Tool_Id=45

JR
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Old May 6, 2004 | 12:57 PM
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drivers side manfold is out--- 8 hrs
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Old May 6, 2004 | 12:58 PM
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hopefully if wont get to that but i might be going to sears i guess!
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Old May 6, 2004 | 02:33 PM
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If you could have waited a few weeks I woulda come down and helped ya...I go to New Smyrna all the time...

Coil packs are those things that sit on the valve covers. There is a little blue plug that you pull out, then unclip the power connect and unbolt them. The very last bolt on the passenger side coil pack is a royal pain, but take your time and get it off. Without the coil packs in the way everything is much easier. As far as the stripped bolt goes...I havent the foggiest. Dont worry about the cat bolts though, all the cars I have ever seen headers put on they end up breaking. Just plan on replacing them if you need them...or get duals
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Old May 6, 2004 | 02:34 PM
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manifolds are off.. going to work now gonna start the install arround 10pm
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Old May 6, 2004 | 02:36 PM
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used a 6 point 10mm socket for the bolt that was going striped its taken care of and i didnt have to disconnect cats form manifolds just pulled them as one entire piece
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Old May 6, 2004 | 02:39 PM
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ur all right if i didnt ***** foot it and just went striaght for the coil packs it woulda went alot smoother. another question are my front and rear 02 sensors interchangeable beacouse im having troublre unscrewing the front from the cats and im putting sims on the rear anaways so i figured id just unclip em whei plug the sims in and plug the rear sensors in the front. finally do my headders drop in or do i put em in fom under the car???

thanks, you all helped alot
-john
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Old May 6, 2004 | 02:59 PM
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FYI, I had to unbolt my engine mounts and use the floor jack to jack the engine up to put the headers on. It made things a lot easier for the underneath part of the install.

I don't think the front and rear O2's are interchange-able. But I am not sure about that.
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Old May 6, 2004 | 04:42 PM
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Originally Posted by Wildman
FYI, I had to unbolt my engine mounts and use the floor jack to jack the engine up to put the headers on. It made things a lot easier for the underneath part of the install.

I don't think the front and rear O2's are interchange-able. But I am not sure about that.
They are, but make sure they're plugged into the right place

Sounds like you're definitely going to appreciate this job when its done

Good Luck!
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Old May 6, 2004 | 04:51 PM
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Front and rear o2's are interchangeable. Ive been using a rear o2 on my front for 2 months now. The only reason the part numbers are different is because the wire extension is longer for the rears.

Couple of header tips...You might have to jack up the engine a bit to fit the header in. Place the jack under the engine and put a wood block between it and the engine and jack up on the oil pan, just be easy, and only do it just enough so that the header will slide in. Put the headers in from underneath. Make sure to get the car up on jackstands (4) as high up as you can. This will help you out alot. Also, if you havent already bought the o2 sims and you plan on doing more work to the car later (cam, etc) dont worry about them. All it does is throw a code, you can get it read at Auto Zone just to make sure you dont have any other problems. Then later you can use that money from the sims towards your tune.
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