I am not really familiar with the Tempest chassis. Our 3rd gen camaro headers are really only designed for that model only. I haven't seen them fit to many other chassis. Our A-Body C10 headers are more of a universal fit header. Those are tucked up higher than your standard longtube. Height on those are 16" from the center of the bolt hole to the bottom of the collector. Our highest/tucked header will be our 67-69 Camaro header. I believe they are around 14" from the center of the bolt hole to the bottom of the collector.

Thanks
Sean

 

Searched through the entire thread, does anyone have pictures true duals and MWC driveshaft loop/ torque arm set up?

 

Apparently I'm many years late to the party.

I went through the first 30 pages and didn't see a dyno of a virtually stock car + the 1 3/4 or 1 7/8 headers. Approximate HP gain?

Having a stock Z28, do I need the Y pipe? Is that a necessary add-on as part of the install? Anything else needed? Possibly new gaskets?

Thank you!

 

Yes get a y pipe for more flow, especially with no cats

 

So when these are installed with a y-pipe the cat is completely removed right? Since I have a 2002 Z28 with a non-true dual setup, I would then need to either run two exhaust outlets with or without a muffler? I suspect a straight-piped car with headers is extremely loud. Possibly put a resonator on each side to quiet it up?

 

On these cars, a conservative estimate is 20rwhp is common when adding headers.
Yes you have to get their y pipe to attach to the cat back or have a custom exhaust system made.
They also sell a catted y pipe and true dual exhaust system.
You will need 02 extensions.
Use factory GM MLS exhaust gaskets, they are superior to pretty much everything else and they are cheap.

 

The race version of the SE headers is not catted. Are you using the stock catback right now? I wouldn't run straight piped it will sound like ***. I have the SLP LM1 catback which sounds great nearly stock, but since I plan on doing a heads/cam/intake swap soon, I heard it will be obnoxiously loud with that setup, so I am going to run the SLP Powerflo addition to my LM1 catback which is basically resonators right before the exhaust tips, with a electric cutout after the merge off the Y-pipe connecting both header primaries.

 

Thank you both! I think my confusion is stemming from lack of knowledge. I've attached a picture of my car (from its recent Bring A Trailer auction). So it appears each header feeds into it's own cat, and I suspect that each cat has an 02 sensor? Is this correct?

It then comes together, which I suspect the y-pipe would replace, and then runs down a single pipe to the muffler, where it's then split off to two tips (not true dual). Am I understanding this correctly?

So it sounds like my options are to purchase their headers and y-pipe, and then either run it to the existing muffler/tip setup OR replace the existing setup with my own muffler, etc. Correct?

Thank you!

EDIT - am I leaving significant power on the table if I keep the existing muffler/tip setup? Frankly I like the look/sound and suspect it would only get meaner with headers.

 

Each bank, or each side of the engine, has an exhaust manifold, a pre 02 sensor, a cat converter, a post 02 sensor, after the cats, both sides merge into a single exhaust pipe that goes to the muffler that is mounted under the rear of the car.

Depending on what state you live in, what type of emission testing they have, will determine what type of exhaust you need.

Some states have OBD2 testing, other states have a "visual" test, some states have nothing at all. Some states will not allow the cat's to be moved from factory location. Some states don't care as long as you have cats, some states don't care at all.

When adding long tube headers, regardless if you have cats or not, you will need a few simple things changed in the tune so your CEL doesn't turn on.

 

Howling Mad- Which state do you live in? That will determine which mods you will be doing. No sense having to undo stuff because it runs afoul of the law...

 

Thank you LilJay. I didn't realize a tune would be needed to not throw a CEL.

I live in MN, we have ZERO emissions testing or inspections, so I'm lucky from that standpoint. Given this I suspect I could go completely catless. Would that necessitate additional piping between the headers and y-pipe?

I'm just trying to get a solid amount of information so I can figure out what kind of costs we're looking at. I'm guessing around $1K, maybe a bit more, all-in at this point. There's an F-Body specialist in my city who is quite well known, so I guess I lucked out there.

 

With long tube headers, you will get an 02 insufficient switching or delayed response DTC's, with aftermarket cats, you will get cat efficiency DTC's. Both really don't have anything to do with performance, but the car might run a little rough when cold until some heat gets into the exhaust. But these car's have heated 02 sensors so that's normally not a problem. The issue is the 02 sensors are a lot further away from the engine, so what happens in the combustion chamber, takes a little longer to get to the 02 sensor, so basically there is a delay.

You can get a mail order tune from Frost or the like, when I sent mine to him it was like $150 bucks, but that's been several years ago.

If you have zero emission testing yes you can go go cat less, however you might get some fuel smell from the exhaust at idle or low speeds. My car right now is stock with some bolt ons, headers, no cats and my wife hates it. Cat's will take care of that. Just something to think about.

I say that because things rarely go as planned when working on cars. If you have the knowledge and ability to buy parts online and fix any problems that may come about that's one thing. If you dont, then, IMO, it's better to find a shop that you trust and pay them to do the job. Please don't take that in a negative way. From your post I'm "assuming" you are new to modding cars or at least these cars. I only said those things to try and help. No disrespect.

On paper, the y pipe should bolt up to the factory catback. I will say I have seen very few y pipes, regardless of the manufacturer, actually "just" bolt up with no problems. You might have to have a short pipe made, or a pipe expanded for everything to fit. But that's just part of working on cars.

If you have someone who is local, and who is actually good, I would talk to them. It might cost a little bit more in the long run but if you have any problems or questions, you can call them or talk to them in person. You can't call the internet or Ebay if you have a problem with your parts..

 

Thank you for the info!

I'm not new to modding cars per se, but am brand new to this platform. I've always lucked out in having cars that either a) don't have 02 sensors or b) more modern cars where turbos required off the shelf tunes and maps.

Having a completely bone stock car with 18K miles I don't want to do anything that'll create issues or throw codes, so I'll have to get some expert opinions from our local guru. I appreciate the help though--I have a few things to think about. Luckily MN is covered in snow so I have 4 months to make some decisions!

 

Looking forward to installing these headers. I ordered some the other day. I meant to do this awhile back but I got caught up with other things and hadn't touched the Camaro in quite some time.

 

I ordered another set that showed up a week or so ago. 1 7/8 this time because the internet said I needed them.

Hopefully the driver side collector is aimed the correct way or I may loose my ****.

 

I went with 1 7/8's as well.

 

Any plans for 2.5 TD system?
Many of us don’t need 3 inch TD and prefer better fitment with stock parts. Hooker Blackheart is an option, but I don’t like offset Y-tips and lack of cats.

 

Thank you guys for your business/comments. We don't have anything in production for a 2.5" system sorry.

Thanks
Sean

 

Question for you! RE - https://www.speed-engineering.com/sh...e-version.html

There's an option for O2 extensions. If I decide to go catless, is there something on the header that needs to be plugged? What about your true duel exhaust system (https://www.speed-engineering.com/sh...rear-exit.html)? I realize a tune can take care of the code(s), but is there anything physically I need to purchase in addition to take care of any issues?

Also, I'm interested in black tips for the exhaust system. Can you confirm I would want to be looking at 3.0 inlet diameter for replacement tips? https://www.summitracing.com/search/...-in%3A3-000-in

Thank you!

 

It sucks that speed engineering doesn't sell or ship headers to California