gothic_sera: Ya, we recommend the MSD adjustable boot plug wires. You can literally move the wire to the location you want, and it will hold its position.

Rise of the Phoenix: We dont have any further measurements other than what you have on hand, sorry. I would look more into timing, fuel, knock, temp, etc. There will be more difference there than any longtube will vary in hp. Most longtube headers on the market today are within a few hp at most.

Thanks
Sean

 

By any chance do you know if you all will be coming out with a 2" header in the near future?

 

We don't plan on it sorry.

Thanks
Sean

 

It's alright thank you, I may end up going with your 1 7/8 header anyways lol.

 

Hey Sean How much for a set of your 1 3/4" race with off road y pipe shipped to Kelowna BC Canada v1y 9k5 and are they in stock. Thanks. I am running a 402 in my 98 trans am.. From what I've read they make more power than the 1 7/8 ? Also need the 02 extensions.
Let me know I will need them asap.
Thanks, Chris.

 

King23: Sounds good, thanks..

spaz1: Returned PM

Sean

 

So a few weeks back I ordered 4 sets of headers. I was only gonna get a 1st gen and 4th gen set right now, but I wanted a set for my Silverado, and as previously mentioned, the OP said the 2nd gen set might be a close fit in my 3rd gen. So I talked them into a bit of a discount for buying all 4 at once and placed the order.

After un-boxing them all, I was very impressed with the quality.



The first gen set won't be going in for a while, but they look good on the engine lol.



4th gen set installed. No problems at all with the fit. I already had a Magnaflow cat back in it. I was expecting it to be louder with the headers, but surprisingly it's really not, just sounds "throatier". It's sounds good with minimal rasp.



Installed the Silverado 1 3/4" set. The only issue I had with these is that the bolt heads on the front ujoint clamps hit one of the pipes. I made a slight flat spot on the tube right there and ground down the bolt heads a little. There is some play in the flange bolt holes, and I just tried to bolt them up with those bolts basically centered in the holes. Had I tried to angle the rear down a bit, that might've been enough to clear the bolts. Also this wouldn't be a problem on a lifted truck where the front diff has been lowered. However the y pipe is very close to the rear of the front driveshaft, so that might be a problem on a lifted truck.

Years ago I replaced the stock muffler with a Dynomax ultra flow. It didn't sound much different than stock, other than droning bad at highway speeds. I love the way the truck sounds now. Throatier with the headers, and they even improved the droning at that rpm/load.

Attachment 721336

 

I bought the 2nd gen F-body set to try to use in my 3rd gen. I made them work, but it took significant enough mods that I wouldn't expect too many people to buy them for a 3rd gen, but I'll share what I did. There are only 2 direct fit sets of 1 7/8" headers for a ls swap in a 3rd gen, and they are both $1100. I was fine with doing some fabrication to save $800.

The driver's side fit really well other than touching the lower control arm pocket on the k member.



I just trimmed it. There is way more material there than needs to be, and I'd suspect an after market k member would clear just fine.



The passenger side collector hit the frame rail. So I cut it off.



You can see where the DS collector is a little close to the frame rail and brake and fuel lines. I made a heat shield for the lines and left the collector alone. I'll build my y pipe to curve right at the collector and everything should have enough clearance, so no mods were done to the DS header.



The PS frame rail is really wide, so I just notched it to clear the pipes and collector.



I welded the velocity spike at an angle, welded the collector back on at an angle, and cut the straight part of the collector off and welded it angled even more inward to give room to clamp the y pipe on.



It's a less than ideal set up on the collector, but I don't imagine it'll hurt power too much, and I still saved $800 over the other options, so I'm good with it.

Speedtech is currently designing new suspension for 3rd gens, including a complete front clip that would use their new short arm/long arm set up they are using on their 1st and 2nd gen sub frames. I'm hoping that set up will make 2nd gen headers a bolt in on a 3rd gen, which would make these headers a great deal and the money saved over the more expensive options could be put towards the new suspension.

 

Thank you guys for the comments and pictures. Much appreciated..

Sean

 

One header set, four header sets, what's the difference?

Third gen results actually look pretty good, lot of work, but if someone knows how to weld stainless now they know what to do.

 

On your next order. If you can clock the o2 bung on the y pipe for 4 Gen firebird on the drivers side pipe to angle the o2 sensor down that would be great.

 

Well they're such a bargain I paid about as much as you'd pay for one set of ARH's or Stainless works lol.

Yeah I think the 3rd gen set should be fine. It would've been better to weld some small sections of bends on the primaries to angle the collector inward, but I didn't have the time for that. Maybe if I ever have the headers out again I'll do that.


If I remember right, it's not recommended to have them angle down because water can stay trapped in the end of the sensor.

 

I bought a set of LS 67 camero headers but they will not clear my stock power steering box or let my pitman arm move fully . They seem to have been designed to fit a rack and pinion conversion .must use other than stock mounts I guess

 

Thank you guys for your business..

jaredyocum: Not really sure what to say about those comments. We sell headers for the 1st Gen Camaro all the time. And I dont think we have ever had a return for a fitment issue to-date. They were specifically prototyped on the 67-69 Camaro using the factory steering box. That is what the loop on drivers side header is specifically for. I personally verified fitment myself during the prototype stage. We would not continue to sell these headers if they didn't fit. With that being said its very difficult to know what is going on in your situation without being there in person to see what motor mounts, engine position, sub-frame, steering arms, etc, that are used. For all we know the motor was not set far enough back, or not offset to the passenger side enough. Either way if they are not going to work for your specific setup and they were not scratched up in the process just send them back. No point in trying to make our products look bad in a thread for 98-02 F-Body's.

Thanks
Sean

 

I read in a very (lol) previous post that the y-pipe steps down to 2 3/4 inches. Does this allow for 3 inch cat back to essentially slide in and clamp?

I will be putting on magnaflow cat back. Then ordering 1 7/8 with y-pipe in few days.

Just wondering if I need anything else in preparation to install all myself? I have a lift.

And I will order the Walker clamps beforehand for header and y pipe segments. No big deal. Would you use one as well for y into cat-back?

Any other suggestions for prep or install? I've only read back to page 40 so far. Lol. I will also get them ceramic coated as well. Might as well with savings.

Great feedback here on fit and ease. Excited to do it all myself. I did headers on 76 Firebird build years ago. Swore never again .... Was easier to just lift engine out in the end. Lol

Thanks for all help!

 

T2TA, i have the speed engineering y-pipe behind 1 7/8 pacesetters. Just need grind off the 2.5" step down on the ypipe to fit the 3" exhaust.

Can also easily grind even further forward on the y-pipe and fit a 4" pipe slip join over it and weld it on, to suit a 4" exhaust.

And yes, the clamps that come with it are junk, no offence to speed engineering. The clamps basically don't clamp down on the pipe at all even when tightened all the way down. Chinese clamps by the looks. Generic 3" U-bolt clamps work much better and seal the pipes properly.

 

I cut and ovaled the merge to a 4" and welded on 4" pipe to 4" bullet.

 

Pretty sure that it does step down to 2 3/4, this is so that it can bolt right up to the factory cat back. I believe several guys have just cut the step down off and used a 3 inch band clamp to mate the two ends up.

 

Ah. Thanks guys. I can band aid it to drive to buddy's shop and have it welded properly. It's never coming off lol. And perhaps add a hanger or two as well. My OCD will kick in. Thanks for help!

 

Whoa!!! Never say never!