Stainless Steel Header Bolts... where?
#1
TECH Apprentice
Thread Starter
iTrader: (5)
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Indianapolis, IN
Posts: 390
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I'm about to install TSP 1 7/8" headers... looking to find some new bolts, preferably stainless steel. Where can I find these? Do TSP's come with new bolts?
Thank you!
Thank you!
#3
TECH Apprentice
Thread Starter
iTrader: (5)
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Indianapolis, IN
Posts: 390
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Actually... having done some research, I'm going with Alper Motorsports Stainless Header studs from eBay. Can't justify ARP header studs and their 18 ft-lbs they'll be seeing... Just for anyone searching this same topic.
#6
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (20)
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
lol, wut?
What is wrong with spending $20 on stainless steel studs for headers? Unless you meant been there done that on graphite gaskets. In which case I would agree, MLS is just fine for headers.
And to OEM bolts, screw that (no pun intended). I know OEM they don't put anti-seize on them, but when was the last time you successfully removed all the exhaust manifold bolts on an ls motor from the factory in tact?
What is wrong with spending $20 on stainless steel studs for headers? Unless you meant been there done that on graphite gaskets. In which case I would agree, MLS is just fine for headers.
And to OEM bolts, screw that (no pun intended). I know OEM they don't put anti-seize on them, but when was the last time you successfully removed all the exhaust manifold bolts on an ls motor from the factory in tact?
Trending Topics
#12
TECH Apprentice
Thread Starter
iTrader: (5)
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Indianapolis, IN
Posts: 390
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I ordered some Studs from Alper Motorsports on eBay. From what I've read, the convenience is worth it and not having to mess with the bolts nearest the firewall.
#13
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
From what I've seen the locking header bolts can be a pain to get off, but definitely a good investment for the peace of mind. In fact when i did my headers i asked a sponsor about the ARP header studs and they advised me to use new OEM, because it's not that big of a deal and money could be spent elsewhere. As far as stock ones go I have never had a problem removing them on my car or my friends car.
#14
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (20)
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
$20 for stainless head studs, why are stock bolts better?
And for those of you who successfully remove every manifold bolt in tact every time, congratulations. I've bought three sets of used heads, each set had exactly three bolts broken off in them. I've had to extract two bolts from cars I've purchased, southern their whole life. I don't go gorilla and I always soak them with penetrating oil.
I just don't understand why y'all are so opposed to stainless header studs when they're only $20.
And for those of you who successfully remove every manifold bolt in tact every time, congratulations. I've bought three sets of used heads, each set had exactly three bolts broken off in them. I've had to extract two bolts from cars I've purchased, southern their whole life. I don't go gorilla and I always soak them with penetrating oil.
I just don't understand why y'all are so opposed to stainless header studs when they're only $20.
#15
8 Second Club
iTrader: (16)
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
$20 for stainless head studs, why are stock bolts better?
And for those of you who successfully remove every manifold bolt in tact every time, congratulations. I've bought three sets of used heads, each set had exactly three bolts broken off in them. I've had to extract two bolts from cars I've purchased, southern their whole life. I don't go gorilla and I always soak them with penetrating oil.
I just don't understand why y'all are so opposed to stainless header studs when they're only $20.
And for those of you who successfully remove every manifold bolt in tact every time, congratulations. I've bought three sets of used heads, each set had exactly three bolts broken off in them. I've had to extract two bolts from cars I've purchased, southern their whole life. I don't go gorilla and I always soak them with penetrating oil.
I just don't understand why y'all are so opposed to stainless header studs when they're only $20.
hell..I use intake Studs, head studs, header studs, oil dipstick tube stud(lol), studs anywhere I can safely replace a bolt...
sorry you are having such bad luck...
you buying heads for cheap that have bolts broken off in them was your choice
I dont even know how you are breaking them...the threads in the heads strip long before the tensile strength of the bolts gives out...
even a cross threaded bolt will strip the heads long before it will break the bolt
I've done hundreds of set of headers with no issues.....and I have friends who have done numerous sets with no issues
I really have no idea what you are doing wrong that you are breaking bolts
Last edited by soundengineer; 01-01-2014 at 06:22 PM.
#17
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (20)
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Sound, I'm not breaking the bolts putting them in. However, it seems the bolts from the factory tend to seize and they break upon attempted removal. You are right, you'll strip threads out of the head well before you break a bolt on install unless something is seriously wrong.
Putting stock replacements in a head is possible without breaking bolts for sure. And if it's the last time you touch the bolts in the life of the car, that's fine. And I always use the silver anti-seize on install. But what if you have to remove them later on for some reason. I'd rather have studs there for $20.
Putting stock replacements in a head is possible without breaking bolts for sure. And if it's the last time you touch the bolts in the life of the car, that's fine. And I always use the silver anti-seize on install. But what if you have to remove them later on for some reason. I'd rather have studs there for $20.
#18
TECH Addict
iTrader: (4)
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
$20 for stainless head studs, why are stock bolts better?
And for those of you who successfully remove every manifold bolt in tact every time, congratulations. I've bought three sets of used heads, each set had exactly three bolts broken off in them. I've had to extract two bolts from cars I've purchased, southern their whole life. I don't go gorilla and I always soak them with penetrating oil.
I just don't understand why y'all are so opposed to stainless header studs when they're only $20.
And for those of you who successfully remove every manifold bolt in tact every time, congratulations. I've bought three sets of used heads, each set had exactly three bolts broken off in them. I've had to extract two bolts from cars I've purchased, southern their whole life. I don't go gorilla and I always soak them with penetrating oil.
I just don't understand why y'all are so opposed to stainless header studs when they're only $20.
#19
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I agree on ARP's SS header stud look real nice. BUT>>>>> they are way over priced IMHO. Over $129.oo yikes !!
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ar...1400/overview/
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ar...1400/overview/
#20
8 Second Club
iTrader: (16)
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I agree on ARP's SS header stud look real nice. BUT>>>>> they are way over priced IMHO. Over $129.oo yikes !!
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ar...1400/overview/
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ar...1400/overview/
its not that over priced when you consider they are hardened and tempered and are an allow steel fastener...harder than grade 8
its an expensive process
Stainless is just slightly stronger than grade 2..
not that I think most people need a grade 8 for the headers....