Kooks True Duals - Clamps/Welding
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Launching!
Joined: Feb 2013
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Kooks True Duals - Clamps/Welding So I've had Kooks Headers/Kooks True Duals on my car for about 3 months and I love the system but I can't seem to get away from these damn exhaust leaks. I've tried putting the clamps on several different ways but the pipes always seem to work themselves loose...my exhaust will start sounding very raspy/crappy or I'll see water leaking and that's how I know there is a leak.
So my questions are...
Here is what all the joints on the kooks system look like:
Thanks for the help.
Devon
So my questions are...
- What is the correct placement of the clamps on the joining of two pipes?
- Would I be better off just having the majority of the joints welded?
Here is what all the joints on the kooks system look like:
Thanks for the help.
Devon
You can have them tack weld the joints like 99bluz28 stated and reused the band clamps, or use a copper silicone gasket between the joints, clamp them back or just do what I did with my bassani true duals... Weld all the joints together.
Are you using an impact? If you don't have one a breaker bar works well. You have to really get them tight. I also had to order a couple lap joint band clamps to get a good seal from jegs. The ones I got have a hi-temp puddy that spreads out when tightened to help prevent leaks.
theres an exhaust sealer you can buy at just about any auto parts store...
put it on the joints...put your clamp on over it....tighten the crap out of the clamps...
you wont have to worry about leaks any more after that.
put it on the joints...put your clamp on over it....tighten the crap out of the clamps...
you wont have to worry about leaks any more after that.
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Thread Starter
Launching!
Joined: Feb 2013
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Thanks for all the replies guys. I've always had a fear of using my impact on tightening any nuts or bolts so I've always only got my clamps tight with a small 3/8 ratchet...I bet that's my problem.
If I were to buy a welder myself to do the tack welding, what would be a good setup? It's nearly impossible to find a shop around here that can get my car on their lift because it's lowered.
I'll also look into that exhaust sealer.
Thanks again for the help.
Devon T.
If I were to buy a welder myself to do the tack welding, what would be a good setup? It's nearly impossible to find a shop around here that can get my car on their lift because it's lowered.
I'll also look into that exhaust sealer.
Thanks again for the help.
Devon T.
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Verdad Gallardo Thanks for all the replies guys. I've always had a fear of using my impact on tightening any nuts or bolts so I've always only got my clamps tight with a small 3/8 ratchet...I bet that's my problem.
If I were to buy a welder myself to do the tack welding, what would be a good setup? It's nearly impossible to find a shop around here that can get my car on their lift because it's lowered.
I'll also look into that exhaust sealer.
Thanks again for the help.
Devon T.
If I were to buy a welder myself to do the tack welding, what would be a good setup? It's nearly impossible to find a shop around here that can get my car on their lift because it's lowered.
I'll also look into that exhaust sealer.
Thanks again for the help.
Devon T.
realistically, any Lincoln or Miller welder will do exhaust work
Just stay away from off brand welders..
I tried this once upon a time and had to redo it every two weeks. The sealer doesn't work well at all, in my experience at least.
Curious why you went with the bassani true duals. You still running stock manifolds?
11 Second Club
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 390
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From: The Burnie, MD
The Millermatics are really nice. I used a smaller Millermatic 140 to build my headers and exhaust. It uses standard 120V and is good for up to about 1/4" steel...so just about anything automotive related.
Thread Starter
Launching!
Joined: Feb 2013
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I got back under the car yesterday, loosened every clamp, beat everything to hell with a rubber mallet to ensure good seating, and then tightened everything back down with my impact until nothing would budge. So far no more leaks and the exhaust tone is much cleaner without the leaking. I don't think I'll need to weld but I'm probably going to buy one and practice because I've got some suspension work I'd like to do down the road. Thanks for the help guys. I'll look into the welder brands posted and see if anything is within my budget
Thread Starter
Launching!
Joined: Feb 2013
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11 Second Club
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 390
Likes: 2
From: The Burnie, MD
You can tack weld stainless just like regular steel. Just need to change the wire out to stainless wire. Technically it's best to use a tri-mix gas but the standard 25/75% mix does just fine unless you're showing your car at Pebble Beach.
Well....you can't just weld it like you do regular steel.
Stainless Steel Exhaust Weld Repair - YouTube
Stainless Steel Exhaust Weld Repair - YouTube
that guy does good work, I've watched a bunch of his videos....
he does do a bit of overkill though...
for most things you dont need a big purge like he is doing, especially for just a tack weld
and you will need stainless wire..
Thread Starter
Launching!
Joined: Feb 2013
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Thanks for the info. I don't plan on welding but I most definitely wouldn't want to take a chance on corrosion with such an expensive exhaust