s7ven

So I've had Kooks Headers/Kooks True Duals on my car for about 3 months and I love the system but I can't seem to get away from these damn exhaust leaks. I've tried putting the clamps on several different ways but the pipes always seem to work themselves loose...my exhaust will start sounding very raspy/crappy or I'll see water leaking and that's how I know there is a leak.

So my questions are...

1. What is the correct placement of the clamps on the joining of two pipes?
2. Would I be better off just having the majority of the joints welded?

Here is what all the joints on the kooks system look like:



Thanks for the help.

Devon

99Bluz28

iTrader: (35)

I'd put 2-4 spot welds preferably evenly spaced around all the joints, then you can reinstall the clamps over the split pipes, if you removed them.

bene

iTrader: (16)

You can have them tack weld the joints like 99bluz28 stated and reused the band clamps, or use a copper silicone gasket between the joints, clamp them back or just do what I did with my bassani true duals... Weld all the joints together.

BrntWS6

iTrader: (7)

Are you using an impact? If you don't have one a breaker bar works well. You have to really get them tight. I also had to order a couple lap joint band clamps to get a good seal from jegs. The ones I got have a hi-temp puddy that spreads out when tightened to help prevent leaks.

Baconz28

Interesting thread

LPE 403

iTrader: (6)

No leaks that bad here. Couple small "bleeders" but like what you're mentioning.

Like already mentioned....impact then tack welds. Obviously making sure everything is fully seated.

soundengineer

iTrader: (16)

theres an exhaust sealer you can buy at just about any auto parts store...
put it on the joints...put your clamp on over it....tighten the crap out of the clamps...

you wont have to worry about leaks any more after that.

s7ven

Thanks for all the replies guys. I've always had a fear of using my impact on tightening any nuts or bolts so I've always only got my clamps tight with a small 3/8 ratchet...I bet that's my problem.

If I were to buy a welder myself to do the tack welding, what would be a good setup? It's nearly impossible to find a shop around here that can get my car on their lift because it's lowered.

I'll also look into that exhaust sealer.

Thanks again for the help.

Devon T.

soundengineer

iTrader: (16)

Millermatic 180......probably overkill for just doing exhaust work...but you can do a lot more with it too...

realistically, any Lincoln or Miller welder will do exhaust work
Just stay away from off brand welders..

skopers3

iTrader: (3)

I tried this once upon a time and had to redo it every two weeks. The sealer doesn't work well at all, in my experience at least.

wav3form

iTrader: (1)

Curious why you went with the bassani true duals. You still running stock manifolds?

MX6.0

The Millermatics are really nice. I used a smaller Millermatic 140 to build my headers and exhaust. It uses standard 120V and is good for up to about 1/4" steel...so just about anything automotive related.

s7ven

I got back under the car yesterday, loosened every clamp, beat everything to hell with a rubber mallet to ensure good seating, and then tightened everything back down with my impact until nothing would budge. So far no more leaks and the exhaust tone is much cleaner without the leaking. I don't think I'll need to weld but I'm probably going to buy one and practice because I've got some suspension work I'd like to do down the road. Thanks for the help guys. I'll look into the welder brands posted and see if anything is within my budget

Paul Bell

iTrader: (9)

Suggestions to weld? Aren't these pipes stainless steel?

s7ven

I've never welded but is there an issue with tack welding stainless? Could it increase the potential for corrosion?

Paul Bell

iTrader: (9)

Well....you can't just weld it like you do regular steel.

MX6.0

You can tack weld stainless just like regular steel. Just need to change the wire out to stainless wire. Technically it's best to use a tri-mix gas but the standard 25/75% mix does just fine unless you're showing your car at Pebble Beach.

soundengineer

iTrader: (16)

if you use 75/25 argon co2, your stainless will rust...lose most of its corrosion resistance
you need to use the 90% Helium mix

soundengineer

iTrader: (16)

that guy does good work, I've watched a bunch of his videos....


he does do a bit of overkill though...
for most things you dont need a big purge like he is doing, especially for just a tack weld

and you will need stainless wire..

s7ven

Thanks for the info. I don't plan on welding but I most definitely wouldn't want to take a chance on corrosion with such an expensive exhaust