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2000 Z28. I've read every thread I can find in here and watched every YouTube video I can get a hold of.
I put a monster single disc clutch in. I put in a new pilot bearing. Also bought an oem slave and remote bleeder from Tick performance. I have put plenty of clutches into muncies over the years but this is my first t56.
First attempt: went smooth and trans wouldn't go in the last 1/4 inch. Read on here not to use the bellhousing bolts for that last quart inch. Decided to pull the trans and double check everything.
2nd attempt: I bought a steel alignment tool, took off the pressure plate and re-did everything. Same result. Brought my cousin out who is a tech (Subaru and Mitsubishi). We pulled the trans again, we both double checked everything, and it looks good. He says it will be fine to pull tight with the bolts.......broken bellhousing.
3rd attempt. Ordered another bellhousing. I took everything off. Verified every.single.thing. Pilot bearing is flush. Centered the clutch disc using the steel alignment tool. Used my mic and calipers to measure any play. The disc is centered within .010 to any finger. I have measured the distance from the fingers to the bellhousing edge (2.28). Distance from front of trans to edge of compressed slave is 1.91. Chamfered the leading edge of the alignment pins. Slide the trans in easy (it has been easy every time) and it still won't give up that last 1/4 inch.
I am completely out of ideas here. Do I need to hook up the slave and have someone compress it while the trans goes in? I didn't see any videos where they did that
A splined like an input shaft steel alignment tool? Smooth and cone style don't work nearly as well.
Take the clutch out. Does the trans. go all the way in? If no, fix the input or replace the pilot bearing. Look for twist in splines.
Borrow a used 26 spline input or pull yours. Bury it into the disc and pilot. Wobble it up and down. Stop at about 1/8 travel above the mid point and hold it. Tighten the pressure plate bolts. The input should go in super easy. If not, repeat. Measure the depth to the pilot bearing/bushing so you can verify the input is going fully in.
A splined like an input shaft steel alignment tool? Smooth and cone style don't work nearly as well.
Take the clutch out. Does the trans. go all the way in? If no, fix the input or replace the pilot bearing. Look for twist in splines.
Borrow a used 26 spline input or pull yours. Bury it into the disc and pilot. Wobble it up and down. Stop at about 1/8 travel above the mid point and hold it. Tighten the pressure plate bolts. The input should go in super easy. If not, repeat. Measure the depth to the pilot bearing/bushing so you can verify the input is going fully in.
At that point, you're good to go.
Yes, the tool(s) are splined. First one was a plastic I've that came with the monster kit. The second is a steel splined tool about 8 inches long. Both tools go in and out easily every time. I have not tried to put it together without the clutch in there. I will give that a try
Nothing looks twisted on the shaft. My rear main started leaking and I decided to replace everything while I was in there. I ordered a kit from monster that came with pilot, flywheel, clutch, pp, and alignment tool. Thanks for the tips, will give it another go without the clutch.
A splined like an input shaft steel alignment tool? Smooth and cone style don't work nearly as well.
Take the clutch out. Does the trans. go all the way in? If no, fix the input or replace the pilot bearing. Look for twist in splines.
Borrow a used 26 spline input or pull yours. Bury it into the disc and pilot. Wobble it up and down. Stop at about 1/8 travel above the mid point and hold it. Tighten the pressure plate bolts. The input should go in super easy. If not, repeat. Measure the depth to the pilot bearing/bushing so you can verify the input is going fully in.
At that point, you're good to go.
I took everything apart again. Trans bolts up fine with no clutch. Followed your instructions and same result. It gets 1/4 inch and will not go in. I am at a loss to what I am missing. Clutch disc slides on/off the input shaft with ease.
Somethings isn't right somewhere! Is it the correct pilot bearing and can you post a picture of the pilot bearing installed into the crankshaft? Pretty straighforward, just take a socket and hammer it in until it stops.
Somethings isn't right somewhere! Is it the correct pilot bearing and can you post a picture of the pilot bearing installed into the crankshaft? Pretty straighforward, just take a socket and hammer it in until it stops.
The kit came with two pilot bearings. The smaller one I put in here and the larger one or the newer stuff and corvettes. This small one is identical to the one I pulled out and installed it flush without any issues.
The only thing I can think of at this point is to remove the slave cylinder and install it with the clutch in place and no slave cylinder. I've compared the slave cylinder to my stock one and other than some minor differences where it touches the fingers of the clutch it looks exactly the same.
If you took the clutch disk out, and installed the trans and it fits fine, there's something wrong with the clutch alignment. I've always had a little bit of trouble getting it to seat as well, but not as much trouble as you're having. I've used the plastic alignment tools normally, and there is some "wiggle" room for how you line them up. Usually I lift slightly on the alignment tool as I'm bolting down the pressure plate, to offset gravity.
Also, normally I leave the bellhousing attached to the trans, and let the guide pins align it to the block, then pull the bellhousing to the engine with the bolts. Can also wiggle the output shaft back and forth as you're lining it up to make sure it meshes with the friction disk.
The pilot bearing does have a front and a back, but I would think you would have still had an issue bolting the trans up without the clutch plate if that was the problem.
the pilot bearing indeed looks like it was installed backwards. get you a new 14061685 and install it with the roller bearings facing the crank and the flared side of the bearing facing out. not sure if that'll fix your issue but fingers crossed for ya.
It does look like bigsticksupra is correct though. There is a front and a back to the bearing. in this picture, you should be able to see the one on the left. The one on the right is the part that should be facing into the engine.
There are 3 Chevrolet LS pilot bearings with different OUTSIDE dimensions. This guide will help determine the size for your engine.
When using the TREMEC aluminum bellhousing or the Quicktime Chevy LS1-LS2-LS3-LS6 bell (RM-8020) with the 5.555" height, you will be using the "inner" pilot which is marked as "A" in the diagram above.
Pilot bearing “A” is the smallest outside diameter 1.094" outer diameter bearing that fits into the innermost pocket of the crankshaft flange. This bearing is typically with T56 and T56 magnum transmission combinations. NOTE: if using the small GM pilot bearing, the internal O-ring seal faces the transmission when installed properly. You can get it at local Autozone or Napa - Dorman part# 690-057 or ACDelco/GM 14061685
If using the Quicktime Small Block / Big Block bell housing (RM-6023) with the 5.950" height you will use the Pilot bearing "B". Pilot bearing "B" is a 1.705" outer diameter bearing that fits into the outer pocket of the crankshaft flange. This bearing is used with Transmission/Bell housing combination from a 2003 to 2012 GM vehicle. NOTE: This is a double sealed bearing and it may be installed either direction into the crankshaft. You can find this local at NAPA / Autozone part #12557583
IMPORTANT NOTE: many GM LS engines use a press-in oil seal plug deep inside the crankshaft flange. DO NOT move or disturb this plug when removing or installing a pilot bearing. Your old pilot bearing must be removed by means of a mechanical pilot bearing puller. DO NOT attempt to use a “hydraulic” (grease or bread) method to push-out or remove your old pilot bearing!
The best method to determine the correct pilot bearing position for your application is by using a straight edge or yard stick across the front of your transmission Bell housing and measure the distance that your transmission input shaft protrudes past the front of the bell housing.
If your transmission input shaft dimension is between 3/4 to 1 inch (19mm to 25.4mm) use the SMALL diameter pilot bearing in crankshaft position "A".
If your transmission input shaft dimension is between 1/4 to 3/8 inch (6.3mm to 9.5mm) test fit the MEDIUM outside diameter pilot bearing into crankshaft position "B". The pilot bearing should be a slight press fit into the crankshaft. If the MEDIUM diameter bearing is a loose fit, please use the LARGE outside diameter bearing for a slight press fit into the crankshaft.
Be sure to install your pilot bearing into the crankshaft by driving or pressing on the outermost part of the bearing ONLY. The pilot bearing must be straight and fully seated into the crankshaft. DO NOT FORCE the installation. Once installed, the inner portion of the bearing must spin freely and smoothly.
if trans goes in without clutch the bearing isnt the problem. the slave could be the problem especially if the slave is extended all the way and you dont have it hooked up or bleeder cracked. if the slave is trying to compress and there isnt anywhere for the fluid to go it wont compress
get the new pilot bearing in correctly, make sure the disc and PP are perfectly centered, crack the bleeder on the slave and that transmission should go right in
Also, sometimes the locating dowels fit really snug and you have to draw the housing onto the dowels, it won't just slip onto them fully with just human force. How long are the dowels? About 1/4"....
However, if you can install the trans with the clutch removed the issue is elsewhere. You have a misalignment between the pilot bearing and the clutch disc. The messed up pilot bearing isn't helping of course.
06-22-2024, 05:49 PM
T56 won't go in last 1/4 inch 
