TSP 1 7/8 header and Y pipe install problems!
TSP 1 7/8 header and Y pipe install problems! Today I attempted to install my headers and I ran into a few problems on my car. Headers themselves basically went in ok. Other than removing plugs, coil packs, etc. I did have to remove the alternator, steering linkage, oil filter.
First issue: The drivers side header, one of the primaries is resting right up against my K-member (stock). Just opposite of the oil filter. I want to know the best way to clearance it, should I grind the k-member in this spot or do I need to heat and clearance the primary? I probably need a little more than 1/4". Oh and I already have poly mm.
Second: I have a BMR driveshaft loop, the Y pipe merge will not allow me to run this safety loop as one side will not clear, I do not see any way around this? Anybody know what loops work with a TSP Y-Pipe? BTW in my picture this loop was modified to clearance my TQ arm due to relocation bracket.
Third: I have a Yank Torque arm relocation crossmember. The torque arm hits the Y pipe and I have no clearance to bolt the torque arm and y-pipe without making contact and flexing the ypipe. I am thinking this will not work at all.
What are my options with the torque arm? I am thinking about trying to mount it back to the stock location (for now), but do any full length relocation kits work with the TSP Y-pipe? What about short arm versions?
Oh and for what its worth, I had to cut almost 2" off my intermediate pipe (GMMG catback) in order to get this even close to fitting. I was not too happy about that.
(The last pic is my old stuff)
First issue: The drivers side header, one of the primaries is resting right up against my K-member (stock). Just opposite of the oil filter. I want to know the best way to clearance it, should I grind the k-member in this spot or do I need to heat and clearance the primary? I probably need a little more than 1/4". Oh and I already have poly mm.
Second: I have a BMR driveshaft loop, the Y pipe merge will not allow me to run this safety loop as one side will not clear, I do not see any way around this? Anybody know what loops work with a TSP Y-Pipe? BTW in my picture this loop was modified to clearance my TQ arm due to relocation bracket.
Third: I have a Yank Torque arm relocation crossmember. The torque arm hits the Y pipe and I have no clearance to bolt the torque arm and y-pipe without making contact and flexing the ypipe. I am thinking this will not work at all.
What are my options with the torque arm? I am thinking about trying to mount it back to the stock location (for now), but do any full length relocation kits work with the TSP Y-pipe? What about short arm versions?
Oh and for what its worth, I had to cut almost 2" off my intermediate pipe (GMMG catback) in order to get this even close to fitting. I was not too happy about that.
(The last pic is my old stuff)
Wow that really sucks. I've been thinking about possibly going with the tsp 1 7/8 and this isn't the first time I've read about all these issues. Looks like I'll keep my bbks for a while.
Wow, that sounds like a nightmare.. I have the same header/y-pipe setup as you, and my headers hit the k-member in that same spot. I just filed off some excess metal on the k-member and that fixed it.
As for the torque arm and loop, I'm using a BMR relocation crossmember and the y-pipe clears it no problem. (Also using their full length torque arm). My MWC driveshaft loop fits great too, doesn't come anywhere near hitting the y-pipe.
As for the torque arm and loop, I'm using a BMR relocation crossmember and the y-pipe clears it no problem. (Also using their full length torque arm). My MWC driveshaft loop fits great too, doesn't come anywhere near hitting the y-pipe.
Did you replace the motor mounts while you were in there? That might be why you are hitting the k-member. I had the same issues with the y-pipe being too long for my Borla catback and had to cut a little bit off.
Thanks for some of the feedback guys.
Yes I had poly motor mounts in the car for a long time.
I looked up the WMC loop, looks like a nicely clearanced piece that tucks up awesome.
http://www.midwestchassis.com/upload...1332389717.png
That solves one problem I think.
02DroptopZ, you said your BMR relocation bracket works with this Y-pipe? Are you an A4 or M6? what hole are you running the mount in? This yank piece only has one and its a few inches lower than stock location. Pics would be helpful, right now I'm having a hard time visualizing how this will clear unless its stock location. What arm do you have?
I've contemplated going to a short arm but not sure how livable that setup is, plus I already have a nice adjustable spohn arm.
I sent the same info to TSP, guess we'll see how it pans out. I know once you start mixing and matching parts there are no guarantees, frustrating non the less, especially cutting I pipes and grinding stuff.
I hope to get back to it again Tuesday night. I will clearance the primary (drop the header again ughh), then attempt to put my TQ arm back on the tailshaft, if I recall how to put that back together.
Yes I had poly motor mounts in the car for a long time.
I looked up the WMC loop, looks like a nicely clearanced piece that tucks up awesome.
http://www.midwestchassis.com/upload...1332389717.png
That solves one problem I think.
02DroptopZ, you said your BMR relocation bracket works with this Y-pipe? Are you an A4 or M6? what hole are you running the mount in? This yank piece only has one and its a few inches lower than stock location. Pics would be helpful, right now I'm having a hard time visualizing how this will clear unless its stock location. What arm do you have?
I've contemplated going to a short arm but not sure how livable that setup is, plus I already have a nice adjustable spohn arm.
I sent the same info to TSP, guess we'll see how it pans out. I know once you start mixing and matching parts there are no guarantees, frustrating non the less, especially cutting I pipes and grinding stuff.
I hope to get back to it again Tuesday night. I will clearance the primary (drop the header again ughh), then attempt to put my TQ arm back on the tailshaft, if I recall how to put that back together.
Last edited by DannoWS6; Sep 22, 2014 at 09:12 AM.
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I have the same issue after doing TSP 1 7/8 header and poly mount install! Rests in the exact same spot & bangs like hell, more so after grinding it because the headers now has more room to vibrate which I thought poly mounts were supposed to stop.
Ive bought a UMI k member to fix that, now just need to install it.
Ive bought a UMI k member to fix that, now just need to install it.
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Verdad Gallardo I have the same issue after doing TSP 1 7/8 header and poly mount install! Rests in the exact same spot & bangs like hell, more so after grinding it because the headers now has more room to vibrate which I thought poly mounts were supposed to stop.
Ive bought a UMI k member to fix that, now just need to install it.
Ive bought a UMI k member to fix that, now just need to install it.
I figure with the motor torqueing up into that direction I'd need a good bit of room. I will likely have to grind and bang on the primary
MWC also makes a nice long torque arm for the stock 10bolt. It's light, adjustable, and much cheaper than most units available last I checked. I don't know if will fix your problem, give Eric a call he might be familiar with TSP's setup. I have his long arm in my car but with a 9" and it clears my Kooks TD's easily.
Mines an A4, and I’m using the 3rd hole up from the bottom. I’m also using BMR’s full length arm. I noticed mine looks a lot different than your Spohn arm, that may be part of the problem. Heres some pics, best I could get without the car in the air, hope these help.
In addition to that mount being higher I think the BMR arm is a tiny bit narrower up front.
Tonight I'm gonna go mess with it some more, clearance the k-member to start and see if for now I can mount the TA back to the tranny.
My one other concern is how the merge connects to the intermediate pipe now. Since I cut it I think its has a bit more play, hopefully I can get it setup without leaking everywhere, otherwise I'll have to see if I can get the I pipe necked down.
Launching!
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 206
Likes: 1
From: Indianapolis
I just installed TSP 1 7/8 headers and their ory, you definitely have to clearance the K member.. not a major deal at all, and mounts will not change that for this set of headers either..
I read a bunch of horror stories about installing these headers after I ordered them, and really thought to myself **** I might have messed up..
But I went ahead and started install anyway, Took off plug wires, oil filter (obviously the old exhaust) and the center bolt out of the mount.
lifted the engine about 1/2 inch and the header fell in, I didn't have to take out the steering shaft, remove the plugs or coils..
I read a bunch of horror stories about installing these headers after I ordered them, and really thought to myself **** I might have messed up..
But I went ahead and started install anyway, Took off plug wires, oil filter (obviously the old exhaust) and the center bolt out of the mount.
lifted the engine about 1/2 inch and the header fell in, I didn't have to take out the steering shaft, remove the plugs or coils..
Launching!
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 206
Likes: 1
From: Indianapolis
Good info thanks!
In addition to that mount being higher I think the BMR arm is a tiny bit narrower up front.
Tonight I'm gonna go mess with it some more, clearance the k-member to start and see if for now I can mount the TA back to the tranny.
My one other concern is how the merge connects to the intermediate pipe now. Since I cut it I think its has a bit more play, hopefully I can get it setup without leaking everywhere, otherwise I'll have to see if I can get the I pipe necked down.
In addition to that mount being higher I think the BMR arm is a tiny bit narrower up front.
Tonight I'm gonna go mess with it some more, clearance the k-member to start and see if for now I can mount the TA back to the tranny.
My one other concern is how the merge connects to the intermediate pipe now. Since I cut it I think its has a bit more play, hopefully I can get it setup without leaking everywhere, otherwise I'll have to see if I can get the I pipe necked down.
These headers look great at a price point, but I don't want to hack up my car to save a little money. You would think by now TSP would've addressed these issues and made a better fitting header.
Having ran these headers, I can attest to how good the function is of them.
I know it may not seem like a big deal to some, but I don't like cutting anything that's not necessary on my car to make some poorly designed exhaust fit right.