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Kooks installation questions.

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Old May 25, 2004 | 07:44 PM
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Default Kooks installation questions.

Does the oil filter have to be removed or the part above it with the 2 bolts? I removed my FLP kit and it was a breeze and didnt have to remove anything. I had the whole kit off in like 1 1/2. I have the BMR tubular k-member, so theres a lot more room in there. I didnt have to remove the oil filter or the part above it for removal. Just wanting to know before hand if Im going to have to remove them. Also, I removed the entire coil rack with the coil packs just to make it a little easier to install/unistall. Anyhow, if there is anything else that you want to let me know about the install, I would appreciate it. Thanks.
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Old May 25, 2004 | 08:51 PM
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My Kook's didn't require removing anything. They slid right in. I have heard of others needing to remove the oil filter or grind the tab on the block.
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Old May 25, 2004 | 08:56 PM
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I had to drop my oil + filter to install mine. I'm not sure how it would work with your BMR K member, but it should definately be much easier.

My driver's side had to be fanagled just right to slid in, passenger side was a breeze. If you've removed your coil packs and you're just waiting to get it all back together, I can't see it taking much more then 3 hours or so.

What did you go with?

Mine are 1 3/4 stainless, with the 3" catted Y. I'm wishing I had gone with their stepped design now though...
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Old May 25, 2004 | 09:08 PM
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[QUOTE=BAD *** TA WS6]My driver's side had to be fanagled just right to slid in, passenger side was a breeze.[QUOTE]

WERD!! The shop who installed mine said the passengers side was easy to install, why the drivers side was a pain in the a*s. On the other hand, he said once they were on, the quality and fitment are great.
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Old May 25, 2004 | 10:09 PM
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I've had a rattle out of my drivers side header for a little while now. Well, actually since they were brand new. I got them last August, and installed them over Thanksgiving weekend.

It's not from the primaries touching, it almost sounds like it has something to do with that velocity spike merger. It's between that and the cat, and I'm positive its not the cats.

It just pisses me off because I spent $1200 bucks on them, and it sounds like a rattletrap. I haven't heard of anyone else with the problem though, so I just got the end of the stick. IMO it's a faulty header, and everyone at work agrees
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Old May 26, 2004 | 02:11 AM
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Originally Posted by BAD *** TA WS6
I've had a rattle out of my drivers side header for a little while now. Well, actually since they were brand new. I got them last August, and installed them over Thanksgiving weekend.

It's not from the primaries touching, it almost sounds like it has something to do with that velocity spike merger. It's between that and the cat, and I'm positive its not the cats.

It just pisses me off because I spent $1200 bucks on them, and it sounds like a rattletrap. I haven't heard of anyone else with the problem though, so I just got the end of the stick. IMO it's a faulty header, and everyone at work agrees
Do you think your performance is being effected?
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Old May 26, 2004 | 02:20 AM
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Originally Posted by BAD *** TA WS6

What did you go with?

Mine are 1 3/4 stainless, with the 3" catted Y. I'm wishing I had gone with their stepped design now though...
just out of curiousity, what is your reasoning for wanting to go with the stepped design?
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Old May 26, 2004 | 08:29 AM
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I didn't have any problems installing my Kooks stainless LTs with their catted-y...my buddy and I were able to get them on without removing anything at all, and neither of us had done anything like this before. I'm surprised at how well it all went, and everyone else that was watching was too.
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Old May 26, 2004 | 09:26 AM
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Originally Posted by Camaro SS 2002
Do you think your performance is being effected?
No it's not, but like I said, they were 1200 bucks!


Carbon,

I realize now, that even with stock cubes, I would still have gotten another 5rwhp increase. Once I move up to big H/C or blower package, I'd gain even more. I'd say it's worth the extra money, just my oppinion though. It's not necessary at all.
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Old May 26, 2004 | 10:58 AM
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BAD *** TA WS6: Why do you think that you would of picked up the power with the stepped having stock internals? I could see you squeezing a little more out of a heads and cam car, but not with stock internals. The 1 7/8 in my opinion are definately too big, so thats not even an issue. Even if you were running a fat cam only, I might say you would have a little gain over the 1 3/4, but it may be minimal. Not enough to justify the extra money. Im just saying this because the motor doesnt need the extra exhaust flow with stock internals unless you were spraying a big shot of nitrous. That is why h/c cars, big nitrous cars, etc. gain from bigger primaries. I dunno, maybe Im wrong, but Im sure someone else could chime in.
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Old May 26, 2004 | 01:11 PM
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Right, but I've seen a couple dyno charts on stock cubes who have gained a small amount. The only reason I wish I had gone with the stepped design is so I could build upon it. This way things would only have to be done once.


I can see myself changing my exhaust setup again, but probably not the headers. I'm just saying, with the experience I've had so far, and with my future plans for the car, I would have gone stepped.
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Old May 26, 2004 | 01:35 PM
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I had to take out the drain plug bolt thats it. you gotta twist it up in there though..
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