How to determine a bad spark plug?
Oh yeah...before I forget, what should be the gap on these plugs and as you get deeper and deeper into mods, should the gap be different from stock?


02WS6#519: Is that a proven fact or is that just an opinion? Not saying youre wrong or that I dont believe you, just curious. If my car came stock with 320 hp and it now has rought 485 hp to the motor, then thats a 165 hp increase all motor. (bolts ons and cam) Just out of curiousity, why smaller gap?
As a rule of thumb, for every 50 HP increase in power, close the gap .004. So you'de want to close the gap about .013 from stock. Stock is .060 so that puts you at .047. Again, this is just a general rule of thumb thought up a looooooooong time ago. IMO, it is a VERY conservative rule of thumb when speaking of the LS1 ignition system. A .055 gap will work just fine at your HP level if only running NA (the wider gap you can get away with, the more power.)
As for looking at the plugs to tell if they're bad...sometimes you can't. Not long back I had to replace a TR-6 that looked PERFECT but was causing a skip under load. I had narrowed the other possibilities down and then decided to change all of the plugs on one bank. Problem solved.
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305 RWHP / .85 (approximate driveline loss with an M6) = 359 FWHP
If they actually had only 305 FWHP then they would dyno only about 260 RWHP with an M6.
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The reason why they underrated the F-body was because they want the Vette owners to think they have a far superior car, hence the price tag....C'mon you should know that you NOOB






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