DMH cutout burned up?
DMH cutout burned up? So I've had a DMH cutout for probably 5 years now. It only opens today, won't close.
Safe to assume to motor is done for? Do I purchase a new one from DMH or try a new setup or motor? They do make the best cutout motor correct?
Can they even be rebuilt? I emailed them months ago...no response.
Safe to assume to motor is done for? Do I purchase a new one from DMH or try a new setup or motor? They do make the best cutout motor correct?
Can they even be rebuilt? I emailed them months ago...no response.
TECH Junkie
Joined: Nov 2013
Posts: 3,913
Likes: 366
From: White Bear, Mn
If you get another one check this one out, I have it and love it
http://raceland.com/electric-cut-out...st-system.html
http://raceland.com/electric-cut-out...st-system.html
If you get another one check this one out, I have it and love it
http://raceland.com/electric-cut-out...st-system.html
http://raceland.com/electric-cut-out...st-system.html
I guess I was mostly curious if the motors could be rebuilt easily.
It seems unlikely (though not impossible) that the
motor would fail in one direction but not the other.
I think I'd be looking to the switch and close-in
wiring, with a meter on the motor terminals so you
can see whether it's electrically lit and not moving,
or not lit in the "close" direction.
Also check for some mechanical bind at the limit of
open-travel, which might exceed motor stall torque.
If you "help" it a little, does it commence to work?
Quite likely the motor itself is cheap and available
(but where, that's the question). Maybe you can find
a P/N or mfr and scare up its replacement on eBay,
surpluscenter dot com or places like that. I'm pretty
sure it's a generic 12V motor with tapped holes on
the face, and a particular gear (pressing on and off,
may be the trickiest part of a transplant).
Might also disassemble the gearbox and give it some
grease; this is where cutout failures start, with
overloading the motor and overstressing the gears
against too much friction.
motor would fail in one direction but not the other.
I think I'd be looking to the switch and close-in
wiring, with a meter on the motor terminals so you
can see whether it's electrically lit and not moving,
or not lit in the "close" direction.
Also check for some mechanical bind at the limit of
open-travel, which might exceed motor stall torque.
If you "help" it a little, does it commence to work?
Quite likely the motor itself is cheap and available
(but where, that's the question). Maybe you can find
a P/N or mfr and scare up its replacement on eBay,
surpluscenter dot com or places like that. I'm pretty
sure it's a generic 12V motor with tapped holes on
the face, and a particular gear (pressing on and off,
may be the trickiest part of a transplant).
Might also disassemble the gearbox and give it some
grease; this is where cutout failures start, with
overloading the motor and overstressing the gears
against too much friction.
It seems unlikely (though not impossible) that the
motor would fail in one direction but not the other.
I think I'd be looking to the switch and close-in
wiring, with a meter on the motor terminals so you
can see whether it's electrically lit and not moving,
or not lit in the "close" direction.
Also check for some mechanical bind at the limit of
open-travel, which might exceed motor stall torque.
If you "help" it a little, does it commence to work?
Quite likely the motor itself is cheap and available
(but where, that's the question). Maybe you can find
a P/N or mfr and scare up its replacement on eBay,
surpluscenter dot com or places like that. I'm pretty
sure it's a generic 12V motor with tapped holes on
the face, and a particular gear (pressing on and off,
may be the trickiest part of a transplant).
Might also disassemble the gearbox and give it some
grease; this is where cutout failures start, with
overloading the motor and overstressing the gears
against too much friction.
motor would fail in one direction but not the other.
I think I'd be looking to the switch and close-in
wiring, with a meter on the motor terminals so you
can see whether it's electrically lit and not moving,
or not lit in the "close" direction.
Also check for some mechanical bind at the limit of
open-travel, which might exceed motor stall torque.
If you "help" it a little, does it commence to work?
Quite likely the motor itself is cheap and available
(but where, that's the question). Maybe you can find
a P/N or mfr and scare up its replacement on eBay,
surpluscenter dot com or places like that. I'm pretty
sure it's a generic 12V motor with tapped holes on
the face, and a particular gear (pressing on and off,
may be the trickiest part of a transplant).
Might also disassemble the gearbox and give it some
grease; this is where cutout failures start, with
overloading the motor and overstressing the gears
against too much friction.
I wanted to "help it", but not possible to do alone.
I'll look again for P/N and such, I didn't see anything jump out, but maybe if I take it apart I could find something.
Thanks guys!
Trending Topics
On mine the solder broke off the wires going to the motor, but then it would not work at all. I would also suspect the switch. The switch is a double pole double throw. So with a volt tester on it should show +12 in one direction and -12 in the other.
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