Basic Bolton questions for 99 Z28
Basic Bolton questions for 99 Z28 I would like about 400 RHWP out of my 99 Z28 but I'm not quite ready to touch internals. I'm going to do that when I either A .) Rebuild the motor, or B.) Replace it altogether. With that stated, I'm well aware that I wont be reaching my power goals without atleast a cam, but I'd like to get started on the supporting mods.
I have a 99 model so that also means I have the LS1 intake manifold with EGR still intact. I wanted to tackle this as well.
I want a LID and Im not too particular about what kind of LID. On Texas Speed I saw they have 104MM LID's for roughly $20 more than a standard LID, Its tempting but I'd also have to upgrade the MAF and Throttle Body for all this to work wouldn't I? Ontop of the Throttle Body I would need an intake manifold that would support that inlet..so my question is, for my power goal would it be worth it? For the Intake Manifold I was considering splurging for a F.A.S.T intake but leaving that one up in the air.
For exhaust, I am having a difficult time deciding as well.. Should I go for 1 - 7/8 or should 1 - 3/4" be enough? well, I should say I know 1 - 3/4" IS enough but I dont know if I should purchase that extra capacity "just incase"
Oppinions?
I have a 99 model so that also means I have the LS1 intake manifold with EGR still intact. I wanted to tackle this as well.
I want a LID and Im not too particular about what kind of LID. On Texas Speed I saw they have 104MM LID's for roughly $20 more than a standard LID, Its tempting but I'd also have to upgrade the MAF and Throttle Body for all this to work wouldn't I? Ontop of the Throttle Body I would need an intake manifold that would support that inlet..so my question is, for my power goal would it be worth it? For the Intake Manifold I was considering splurging for a F.A.S.T intake but leaving that one up in the air.
For exhaust, I am having a difficult time deciding as well.. Should I go for 1 - 7/8 or should 1 - 3/4" be enough? well, I should say I know 1 - 3/4" IS enough but I dont know if I should purchase that extra capacity "just incase"
Oppinions?
On The Tree
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 109
Likes: 3
From: Hackettstown, NJ
I think a 104 is would be overkill for your power goals, your stock MAF should be good for now, unless you do go FAST then yea you have to change everything from the lid to the manifold. It's been proven on here 7/8 are the way to go. I see a lot of companies not even making 3/4 any more.
IMO, I would save the money and just buy an LS6 intake instead. I like the POTZ speed ported TB's on eBay. Since the 1 7/8" headers are just a tad bit more then the 1 3/4", go for the bigger ones. Full exhaust ( I run TSP duals) and maybe even an EWP. I know I have a cam, but will all my bolt-ons and cam I made 414rwhp through a stalled auto and 9" rear.
I highly doubt you are going to get 400rwhp w/ an A4 with just bolt ons.
I put down 360/360 in a 00' Firehawk w/ M6.
1 3/4 LT's, 3in ORYP flowmaster merge, 25% U/D pulley, Fast Toys SSRA, SLP lid, stock T/B and LS1 intake.
You're gonna need a at least a cam to hit 400rwhp and supporting bolt ons. Just my .02
I put down 360/360 in a 00' Firehawk w/ M6.
1 3/4 LT's, 3in ORYP flowmaster merge, 25% U/D pulley, Fast Toys SSRA, SLP lid, stock T/B and LS1 intake.
You're gonna need a at least a cam to hit 400rwhp and supporting bolt ons. Just my .02
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If you get a converter get a good one and a good cooler. No need to cheap out in those areas. Cheap converter could take a dump taking out the entire transmission with it. A cheap cooler will not be as efficient as a good cooler resulting in higher transmission temperature and quicker transmission failure.
Heat kills transmissions
A good converter is hands down the best mod for A4 cars. It will also net you the best gain in drag racing. I have seen some take up to a full second off there times
Heat kills transmissions
A good converter is hands down the best mod for A4 cars. It will also net you the best gain in drag racing. I have seen some take up to a full second off there times
If you get a converter get a good one and a good cooler. No need to cheap out in those areas. Cheap converter could take a dump taking out the entire transmission with it. A cheap cooler will not be as efficient as a good cooler resulting in higher transmission temperature and quicker transmission failure.
Heat kills transmissions
A good converter is hands down the best mod for A4 cars. It will also net you the best gain in drag racing. I have seen some take up to a full second off there times
Heat kills transmissions
A good converter is hands down the best mod for A4 cars. It will also net you the best gain in drag racing. I have seen some take up to a full second off there times
Edit:
Here's what I intend on purchasing...
Intake:
FTP 104mm LID
http://www.ebay.com/itm/111845459830?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AITEGR Block Off
Exhaust:
Hooker Ceramic 1-3/4" LT's (chose 1 3/4" because the 1 7/8" version costs literally $400 more)
TSP True Duals
Stall:
What kind of stall should I go for?
Suspension:
Trying to avoid lowering the car at all costs. If I do, I dont want to drop more than 1" max. Otherwise going to look for 1LE suspension and a strut tower.
I may go for an LS6 intake manifold but after reevaluating its not the biggest of my priorities yet, I intend to upgrade it yes but not quite just yet as I may just skip directly to a FAST...
More so I'm racing the clock to get this stuff done before the EPA bans selling this gear. Doesn't have to be the fastest thing in the world, just needs to be fun. I do intend on getting a stall aswell but I'm unsure what RPM range I should aim for given I'm not cammed.
btw I selected the 104mm LID because the Throttle Body was already ported 102mm's. Decided it couldnt hurt.
Last edited by Need4Camaro; Mar 8, 2016 at 01:58 PM.
Hooker Ceramic 1-3/4" LT's (chose 1 3/4" because the 1 7/8" version costs literally $400 more)
Speed engineering headers
FTI stall 3600-3800 range lock up. Yank and Circle D are good too
Browse for sale section for suspension stuff. I'm running spohn stuff but BMR UMI are good as well. Probably 5 others I'm forgetting.
Lowering is for looks. Thats not a must.
lowering control arms,Pan hard bar,torque arm,sub frame connectors
FTI stall 3600-3800 range lock up. Yank and Circle D are good too
Browse for sale section for suspension stuff. I'm running spohn stuff but BMR UMI are good as well. Probably 5 others I'm forgetting.
Lowering is for looks. Thats not a must.
lowering control arms,Pan hard bar,torque arm,sub frame connectors
Intake LID, Ported Throttle Body and Ported MAF ordered and on its way. I also researched the Ported Throttle Body and found the one listed above is for 4 bolt main intakes so I got one from POTZ instead.
Next up are the headers, then the rest of the exhaust system. After that I'm going for suspension.
Also. I am running a heavy duty trans cooler but its from Autozone. Its mounted 1" infront of my condensor. Should I be okay with adding a stall? If so what kind of stall can I safely street drive the car with on a stock cam?
Next up are the headers, then the rest of the exhaust system. After that I'm going for suspension.
Also. I am running a heavy duty trans cooler but its from Autozone. Its mounted 1" infront of my condensor. Should I be okay with adding a stall? If so what kind of stall can I safely street drive the car with on a stock cam?
I run a yank ss4000 with stock internals.. I love it and its my 2nd one in 2 different fbodys.. the ss4000 would probably be the max I'd go before it would be too loose for me.. almost went with a 3600 this time around but glad I didnt, the 4000 performs much better..
I just realized I made a mistake and ordered a POTZ TB for an 00 - 02 LS1 instead of 98 - 99. I tried contacting POTZ over eBay but he isn't responding.
Can I swap over the arms between the two throttle bodies? (The arm on the 00-02 model is larger requiring a longer throttle cable) If so how?
Can I swap over the arms between the two throttle bodies? (The arm on the 00-02 model is larger requiring a longer throttle cable) If so how?
I just realized I made a mistake and ordered a POTZ TB for an 00 - 02 LS1 instead of 98 - 99. I tried contacting POTZ over eBay but he isn't responding.
Can I swap over the arms between the two throttle bodies? (The arm on the 00-02 model is larger requiring a longer throttle cable) If so how?
Can I swap over the arms between the two throttle bodies? (The arm on the 00-02 model is larger requiring a longer throttle cable) If so how?
It seems like your ideas are kind of all over the place. Your link for TSP true duals is actually Hooker true duals. And you're pairing it with Hooker ceramic coated 1-3/4" headers. For less money, why don't you go with a full TSP system and end up with stainless 1-7/8" headers (or 1-3/4" if you want)?
I would highly suggest calling a vendor before you keep ordering parts on ebay. They can help you decide and maybe steer you away from buying the wrong part(s). Texas Speed is just one example, and I've had nothing but success with them. Look at threads from others who have great things to say about help provided from other vendors, too.
You can adjust your throttle cable by following it back from the throttle body and like half way back there's a little flip cap that you can open. It allows for some adjustment and it holds the length you want once you snap the cover shut on it again. I'd try that to see if you can get it the length you want without trying to swap over a TB blade.
It seems like your ideas are kind of all over the place. Your link for TSP true duals is actually Hooker true duals. And you're pairing it with Hooker ceramic coated 1-3/4" headers. For less money, why don't you go with a full TSP system and end up with stainless 1-7/8" headers (or 1-3/4" if you want)?
I would highly suggest calling a vendor before you keep ordering parts on ebay. They can help you decide and maybe steer you away from buying the wrong part(s). Texas Speed is just one example, and I've had nothing but success with them. Look at threads from others who have great things to say about help provided from other vendors, too.
It seems like your ideas are kind of all over the place. Your link for TSP true duals is actually Hooker true duals. And you're pairing it with Hooker ceramic coated 1-3/4" headers. For less money, why don't you go with a full TSP system and end up with stainless 1-7/8" headers (or 1-3/4" if you want)?
I would highly suggest calling a vendor before you keep ordering parts on ebay. They can help you decide and maybe steer you away from buying the wrong part(s). Texas Speed is just one example, and I've had nothing but success with them. Look at threads from others who have great things to say about help provided from other vendors, too.
Do you think the MAF just went bad? It does have over 200k miles on it and was recently tampered, or do you think its the MAF ends / no screen?
--
For everything else, I meant the Hooker exhaust, not TSP as I want an over the axle finish. I should ask though, will that clear the stock rearend with stock suspension? Also I am going to likely go for Speed Engineering 1 7/8" headers, heard good things about them.
Last edited by Need4Camaro; Apr 5, 2016 at 06:51 PM.