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Tapping into block for mechanical temperature and oil pressure guages

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Old 06-20-2004, 05:37 AM
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Default Tapping into block for mechanical temperature and oil pressure guages

What is the best way to get a temperature guage and oil pressure guage with an LS1 conversion, eg. I wish to use my factory guages from my 1977 model car with LS1 engine.

Do I need to tap into the block to install a temp sender and oil pressure sender or is there a blank tap I can already use
Old 06-20-2004, 09:43 AM
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there are some plugs in the block you can tap into, you may need to get a different fitting, but when i did research for my autometer guages there are 2 m12 fittings i am going to try to tap into, on on the pass cyl head and on on the back of the block, try to search for stuff on mechanical guages and see if you can turn up any more
Old 06-21-2004, 02:27 AM
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Originally Posted by GTS346
What is the best way to get a temperature guage and oil pressure guage with an LS1 conversion, eg. I wish to use my factory guages from my 1977 model car with LS1 engine.

Do I need to tap into the block to install a temp sender and oil pressure sender or is there a blank tap I can already use

I have ELECTRIC, not manual gauges in my setup, but this info may prove useful:

That said, you have a couple options. A popular one is to use a 12x1.5mm adapter and thread this into the passanger side header. The adapter, made by Equus will allow the use of the 1/8" NP fitting from an autometer temp gauge. The kit's around $6 from autobarn.com + shipping. I have the kit n front of me, and can attest that the adapter is THIN. I've read about people stripping these fittings into the head, so even though this is a popular install location, I took a pass on it!

I drilled and tapped a hole into the top of the water pump just to the passenger side of the throttle body. I then threaded the temp sensor into the water pump. It does require removal of the pump before drilling to prevent getting metal shavings into the cooling system. Total time to remove/ tap and reinstall the pump is about 2 hours. My setup works great like this and is quite accurate. This would be my suggestion for install

The oil sensor can be installed in a similiar manner on the housing that the oil filter screws into. The housing is held on by a couple bolts that are acessible once the filter is removed.

Hope this info helps out

Schantin
2002 Camaro Z28 M6
Old 07-30-2006, 10:55 PM
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Originally Posted by Schantin
I have ELECTRIC, not manual gauges in my setup, but this info may prove useful:

That said, you have a couple options. A popular one is to use a 12x1.5mm adapter and thread this into the passanger side header. The adapter, made by Equus will allow the use of the 1/8" NP fitting from an autometer temp gauge. The kit's around $6 from autobarn.com + shipping. I have the kit n front of me, and can attest that the adapter is THIN. I've read about people stripping these fittings into the head, so even though this is a popular install location, I took a pass on it!

I drilled and tapped a hole into the top of the water pump just to the passenger side of the throttle body. I then threaded the temp sensor into the water pump. It does require removal of the pump before drilling to prevent getting metal shavings into the cooling system. Total time to remove/ tap and reinstall the pump is about 2 hours. My setup works great like this and is quite accurate. This would be my suggestion for install

The oil sensor can be installed in a similiar manner on the housing that the oil filter screws into. The housing is held on by a couple bolts that are acessible once the filter is removed.

Hope this info helps out

Schantin
2002 Camaro Z28 M6

You have any pics of the temp sensor in the water pump? And, could you just drill real slow with a vacum at the base of the bit to collect all of the pieces instead of removing the water pump?
Old 07-31-2006, 09:34 PM
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Could somebody who is familiar with this please help me with an answer.
Old 08-01-2006, 04:15 PM
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ttttt
Old 08-02-2006, 01:59 AM
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Yeah I would like to know too, just bought a water temp gauge and wanted to know easiest way to instal it.
Old 05-02-2011, 10:10 PM
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Originally Posted by SS125
You have any pics of the temp sensor in the water pump? And, could you just drill real slow with a vacum at the base of the bit to collect all of the pieces instead of removing the water pump?
Bump for pics. Anyone done this?

And to answer the question, You probably could but I wouldn't trust it. I would not want to take the chance of getting metal shavings in there. Better to just pull it off and know that you did it right.
Old 05-03-2011, 10:25 AM
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Hopefully he figured it out after five years
Old 05-04-2011, 10:44 AM
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^^^ lol
Old 05-04-2011, 10:54 AM
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Originally Posted by Grewe02
Bump for pics. Anyone done this?

And to answer the question, You probably could but I wouldn't trust it. I would not want to take the chance of getting metal shavings in there. Better to just pull it off and know that you did it right.
Props for bumping an old thread rather than creating a new one with the same question.

I have done this, but not on the water pump. It worked fine. we put a little assembly lube or petroleum jelly on the bit to catch the shavings in addition to the vacuum. It worked really well when in a pinch.

As for the answer to the question, there is no longer any need to tap anything. Just remove the block off port on the passenger side head.

http://www.autometer.com/techinfo_ne...px?pg=1&aid=15
Old 05-04-2011, 12:44 PM
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I'm using the AutoMeter piece on my car. The only thing I don't like about it is the sending unit doesn't go all the way through the adapter. There is a guy in the carb section that has tapped the water pump but I can't remember his name
Old 05-04-2011, 01:05 PM
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Originally Posted by Z28/2002
I'm using the AutoMeter piece on my car. The only thing I don't like about it is the sending unit doesn't go all the way through the adapter. There is a guy in the carb section that has tapped the water pump but I can't remember his name
If that's a big concern, you could drill it out and retap it so the sending unit sits farther into the adapter?
Old 05-05-2011, 11:02 AM
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the only problem with that is once you drill the adapter it doesn't leave you with much material. I was worried about it splitting when it was tightened down in the head



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