Help me plan my Top End Package
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If you had published information on your website people wouldnt be making asassumptions based off a thread here, but i did compare it to others in the industry. Its what vendors do of course. I am not wrong nor out of the way in doing so. Im not sure if you are upset because you are being compared to your literal competitors or what.
Customers ask us for comparisons all the time. An actual flow sheet to compare side by side instead of just a thread on tech would be helpful.
Still no answer though as to whether your 220 or 223 are an as cast port or not. That is why i had to make a best guess comparison. And I quoted your lead times exactly as to what you have and did post.
Customers ask us for comparisons all the time. An actual flow sheet to compare side by side instead of just a thread on tech would be helpful.
Still no answer though as to whether your 220 or 223 are an as cast port or not. That is why i had to make a best guess comparison. And I quoted your lead times exactly as to what you have and did post.
Why don't you read the thread I created a long time ago chock full of all the info your looking for. Clearly I took the time to draft that thread on behalf of a potential customer looking for information but it's a free country. And you should never post a "best guess" about your own product, never mind one of your competitor's products
https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...man-heads.html
Also regarding you "comparing flowsheets"....while I have nothing to hide there as well I still stand by the fact all that data is meaningless (unfortunately) unless it's on the same bench. The nice thing with my numbers is its on the same equipment all the AFR product was flowed on over the years and while the AFR 205's I designed in 2004 "only" flowed a legit 300 ish CFM, everyone that's savvy on this board knows how well in general they performed. There is alot more at play here (in regards to making power) than comparing flow numbers....especially from different equipment.
So if you feel it's in your best interest to "directly compare" thats fine but at the end of the day I think you suffer for it more than benefit....I bet you a decade from now you handle things differently.
Also...FWIW you know why I addressed you (and reposted) in the first place?....because other people on Tech pointed me to this thread via email and PM's tired of what they were seeing.
-Tony
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www.mamomotorsports.com
Tony@MamoMotorsports.com
Anything worth doing is worth doing well. Build it right the first time....its alot cheaper than building it twice!!
www.mamomotorsports.com
Tony@MamoMotorsports.com
Anything worth doing is worth doing well. Build it right the first time....its alot cheaper than building it twice!!
I never said nor implied anything about you hiding anything. Nothing of the sort.
What else can we use to compare heads?
I saw the thread. Can i tell a customer to go look at this thread on tech? Yes. Of course. Then they would have to glean through 100+ posts to get all lf the info. But would they rather see it on your site all in one place?
Im not trashing your heads by any means. I am comparing them both in flow numbers and price point and as you mentioned time frame. So if the flow numbers are meaningless then what? Its what you are using to show your capabilities as well as compare to others though arent you?
I know why you addressed this thread. Trick flow heada are not "my product" neither are Texas Speed heads. We dont manufacture heads nor do we port them.
I still am unsure if the 220 or 223 are cnc or as cast either. Im comparing the only info you can compare between sets of heads. I dont even know what valve size you have or have as options. Id have to dig through 2 or 3 threads to find that out. If a customer asked me to then of course i would, but no one has called us askimg about MMS heads so far. If you said they are as cast then they will be compared to other similar as cast heads, if cnc then cnc, they they are close to either in the right price category then they can be compared to both. Meaning the MMS223 head is X dollars and is as cast and it flows better than the comparable AFR head that is cnc and is X dollars more. That is what the op wants to know so he will get the facts in as direct a comparison as possible.
Having the information on your heads in one place on your site is literally the easiest way to compare and give customers exact answers. Even if you sold them to an outside company like summit jegs etc then they would have all the info listed there, that would work as well.
What else can we use to compare heads?
I saw the thread. Can i tell a customer to go look at this thread on tech? Yes. Of course. Then they would have to glean through 100+ posts to get all lf the info. But would they rather see it on your site all in one place?
Im not trashing your heads by any means. I am comparing them both in flow numbers and price point and as you mentioned time frame. So if the flow numbers are meaningless then what? Its what you are using to show your capabilities as well as compare to others though arent you?
I know why you addressed this thread. Trick flow heada are not "my product" neither are Texas Speed heads. We dont manufacture heads nor do we port them.
I still am unsure if the 220 or 223 are cnc or as cast either. Im comparing the only info you can compare between sets of heads. I dont even know what valve size you have or have as options. Id have to dig through 2 or 3 threads to find that out. If a customer asked me to then of course i would, but no one has called us askimg about MMS heads so far. If you said they are as cast then they will be compared to other similar as cast heads, if cnc then cnc, they they are close to either in the right price category then they can be compared to both. Meaning the MMS223 head is X dollars and is as cast and it flows better than the comparable AFR head that is cnc and is X dollars more. That is what the op wants to know so he will get the facts in as direct a comparison as possible.
Having the information on your heads in one place on your site is literally the easiest way to compare and give customers exact answers. Even if you sold them to an outside company like summit jegs etc then they would have all the info listed there, that would work as well.
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From: over dere
Still say you'll gain more by stressing over your supporting mods than you will stressing over who's heads are going to give you 5 more HP.
If budget isn't a concern then do everything with the best right from the start. It'll be cheaper than doing it once then doing it again because you want more
LLSR is unnecessary BUT has the potential for more power. There is no benefit to hydraulic other than ease of setup and maybe not having to check your lash every 35,000 miles. I would not use stock hydraulic lifters though. If you're comfortable setting valves then you'll have no issues setting an LLSR. Easiest solid in the world to set. This is really a per individual decision.
Total airflow means little in your head choice. Whether one flows 310
And the other flows 320, doesn't really matter. Port volume and minimum CSA mean more when best matched to the application. Also, most plastic intakes aren't even going to flow as much as these heads anyway.
If budget isn't a concern then do everything with the best right from the start. It'll be cheaper than doing it once then doing it again because you want more
LLSR is unnecessary BUT has the potential for more power. There is no benefit to hydraulic other than ease of setup and maybe not having to check your lash every 35,000 miles. I would not use stock hydraulic lifters though. If you're comfortable setting valves then you'll have no issues setting an LLSR. Easiest solid in the world to set. This is really a per individual decision.
Total airflow means little in your head choice. Whether one flows 310
And the other flows 320, doesn't really matter. Port volume and minimum CSA mean more when best matched to the application. Also, most plastic intakes aren't even going to flow as much as these heads anyway.
Good info in here really. Good luck with your build OP. The biggest thing you can do is keep reading and speak with these vendors on the phone. I like using Tony Mamo now and he provides the best customer service that I’ve encountered so far with a shop. I always receive a response either immediately or within 12 hrs or so. Also Cam Motion is fantastic. Personally I run everything I do past Darth_V8r at this point in my builds because he has a ridiculous amount of knowledge and is using it daily on the street. His build probably has 20k on it right now and holding up well. There’s something to be said there for a bottom end that has 166k on it. And there’s proven results on the track as well. Good luck OP
Ive said a few times your limiting factors will be what you already have. The headers and cai.
Id also check your driveshaft couplers if you ever get a chance. They are a pita to get at but def need to be looked at for all the c5s.
Id also check your driveshaft couplers if you ever get a chance. They are a pita to get at but def need to be looked at for all the c5s.
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I have a 2002 C5Z that I've run in Optima events, AutoX, Track Days, and LSR. The factory shortblock served me well until I took out #7 (my fault) a couple years back. I'm now onto a LS7 based build with our 260 heads.
My old HCI combo made 450/400 with a conservative tune...std. gas, no pulleys etc. It was a TEA 2.5 job on my 243's and milled to 60cc, EPS 226/234, Fast 102, LS2 tb, 1 7/8 ARH through stock Ti cat back. Speed Density tune. Also with the Vararam. That was enough to run 11.80's with a 1.8 sixty on Falken RT-615K 200 TW tires and trap 123-124 at LSFest. Current ECTA Standing mile record holder at 177-179 mph in the Grand Touring Sports and Super Street classes. Very reliable and consistent, idled nice, very controllable, and would pass most at track days. Eventually we opened up the rev-limiter to 7500 so I could hang it out of the corners and bang into the next gear once the tires were straight. It still made plenty of power up there with original 45k mile lifters and rockers.
I'm no longer on a LS1 bore, but I don't think I'd change much other than perhaps the better value of the 220 heads and selling my original ones. I could have spent more money perhaps, but I think 450 is going to get the job done for you. Although Tusky's combination sounds real good. You could put the rest into the brakes, because you're going to be flying. Also, make sure you get a 4-corner steam kit on there.
As WS6 stated, couplers are a problem if you're agressive like me....Zr1 couplers on a bigger shaft is a good solution. Clutch is too. I had a 25 lb quartermaster setup for a bit, but had idle flare problems with the original ecu. I put a 45lb McLeod rxt and bleeder in it and couldn't be happier. Solid motor mounts and the phadt brace in the back kept the driveline pretty settled. You may need 2010 Camaro cv boots to clear the coilovers.
My old HCI combo made 450/400 with a conservative tune...std. gas, no pulleys etc. It was a TEA 2.5 job on my 243's and milled to 60cc, EPS 226/234, Fast 102, LS2 tb, 1 7/8 ARH through stock Ti cat back. Speed Density tune. Also with the Vararam. That was enough to run 11.80's with a 1.8 sixty on Falken RT-615K 200 TW tires and trap 123-124 at LSFest. Current ECTA Standing mile record holder at 177-179 mph in the Grand Touring Sports and Super Street classes. Very reliable and consistent, idled nice, very controllable, and would pass most at track days. Eventually we opened up the rev-limiter to 7500 so I could hang it out of the corners and bang into the next gear once the tires were straight. It still made plenty of power up there with original 45k mile lifters and rockers.
I'm no longer on a LS1 bore, but I don't think I'd change much other than perhaps the better value of the 220 heads and selling my original ones. I could have spent more money perhaps, but I think 450 is going to get the job done for you. Although Tusky's combination sounds real good. You could put the rest into the brakes, because you're going to be flying. Also, make sure you get a 4-corner steam kit on there.
As WS6 stated, couplers are a problem if you're agressive like me....Zr1 couplers on a bigger shaft is a good solution. Clutch is too. I had a 25 lb quartermaster setup for a bit, but had idle flare problems with the original ecu. I put a 45lb McLeod rxt and bleeder in it and couldn't be happier. Solid motor mounts and the phadt brace in the back kept the driveline pretty settled. You may need 2010 Camaro cv boots to clear the coilovers.
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Last edited by TrickFlowTech; Oct 5, 2017 at 11:38 AM.
I have a 2002 C5Z that I've run in Optima events, AutoX, Track Days, and LSR. The factory shortblock served me well until I took out #7 (my fault) a couple years back. I'm now onto a LS7 based build with our 260 heads.
My old HCI combo made 450/400 with a conservative tune...std. gas, no pulleys etc. It was a TEA 2.5 job on my 243's and milled to 60cc, EPS 226/234, Fast 102, LS2 tb, 1 7/8 ARH through stock Ti cat back. Speed Density tune. Also with the Vararam. That was enough to run 11.80's with a 1.8 sixty on Falken RT-615K 200 TW tires and trap 123-124 at LSFest. Current ECTA Standing mile record holder at 177-179 mph in the Grand Touring Sports and Super Street classes. Very reliable and consistent, idled nice, very controllable, and would pass most at track days. Eventually we opened up the rev-limiter to 7500 so I could hang it out of the corners and bang into the next gear once the tires were straight. It still made plenty of power up there with original 45k mile lifters and rockers.
I'm no longer on a LS1 bore, but I don't think I'd change much other than perhaps the better value of the 220 heads and selling my original ones. I could have spent more money perhaps, but I think 450 is going to get the job done for you. Although Tusky's combination sounds real good. You could put the rest into the brakes, because you're going to be flying. Also, make sure you get a 4-corner steam kit on there.
As WS6 stated, couplers are a problem if you're agressive like me....Zr1 couplers on a bigger shaft is a good solution. Clutch is too. I had a 25 lb quartermaster setup for a bit, but had idle flare problems with the original ecu. I put a 45lb McLeod rxt and bleeder in it and couldn't be happier. Solid motor mounts and the phadt brace in the back kept the driveline pretty settled. You may need 2010 Camaro cv boots to clear the coilovers.
My old HCI combo made 450/400 with a conservative tune...std. gas, no pulleys etc. It was a TEA 2.5 job on my 243's and milled to 60cc, EPS 226/234, Fast 102, LS2 tb, 1 7/8 ARH through stock Ti cat back. Speed Density tune. Also with the Vararam. That was enough to run 11.80's with a 1.8 sixty on Falken RT-615K 200 TW tires and trap 123-124 at LSFest. Current ECTA Standing mile record holder at 177-179 mph in the Grand Touring Sports and Super Street classes. Very reliable and consistent, idled nice, very controllable, and would pass most at track days. Eventually we opened up the rev-limiter to 7500 so I could hang it out of the corners and bang into the next gear once the tires were straight. It still made plenty of power up there with original 45k mile lifters and rockers.
I'm no longer on a LS1 bore, but I don't think I'd change much other than perhaps the better value of the 220 heads and selling my original ones. I could have spent more money perhaps, but I think 450 is going to get the job done for you. Although Tusky's combination sounds real good. You could put the rest into the brakes, because you're going to be flying. Also, make sure you get a 4-corner steam kit on there.
As WS6 stated, couplers are a problem if you're agressive like me....Zr1 couplers on a bigger shaft is a good solution. Clutch is too. I had a 25 lb quartermaster setup for a bit, but had idle flare problems with the original ecu. I put a 45lb McLeod rxt and bleeder in it and couldn't be happier. Solid motor mounts and the phadt brace in the back kept the driveline pretty settled. You may need 2010 Camaro cv boots to clear the coilovers.
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Verdad Gallardo I have a 2002 C5Z that I've run in Optima events, AutoX, Track Days, and LSR. The factory shortblock served me well until I took out #7 (my fault) a couple years back. I'm now onto a LS7 based build with our 260 heads.
My old HCI combo made 450/400 with a conservative tune...std. gas, no pulleys etc. It was a TEA 2.5 job on my 243's and milled to 60cc, EPS 226/234, Fast 102, LS2 tb, 1 7/8 ARH through stock Ti cat back. Speed Density tune. Also with the Vararam. That was enough to run 11.80's with a 1.8 sixty on Falken RT-615K 200 TW tires and trap 123-124 at LSFest. Current ECTA Standing mile record holder at 177-179 mph in the Grand Touring Sports and Super Street classes. Very reliable and consistent, idled nice, very controllable, and would pass most at track days. Eventually we opened up the rev-limiter to 7500 so I could hang it out of the corners and bang into the next gear once the tires were straight. It still made plenty of power up there with original 45k mile lifters and rockers.
I'm no longer on a LS1 bore, but I don't think I'd change much other than perhaps the better value of the 220 heads and selling my original ones. I could have spent more money perhaps, but I think 450 is going to get the job done for you. Although Tusky's combination sounds real good. You could put the rest into the brakes, because you're going to be flying. Also, make sure you get a 4-corner steam kit on there.
As WS6 stated, couplers are a problem if you're agressive like me....Zr1 couplers on a bigger shaft is a good solution. Clutch is too. I had a 25 lb quartermaster setup for a bit, but had idle flare problems with the original ecu. I put a 45lb McLeod rxt and bleeder in it and couldn't be happier. Solid motor mounts and the phadt brace in the back kept the driveline pretty settled. You may need 2010 Camaro cv boots to clear the coilovers.
My old HCI combo made 450/400 with a conservative tune...std. gas, no pulleys etc. It was a TEA 2.5 job on my 243's and milled to 60cc, EPS 226/234, Fast 102, LS2 tb, 1 7/8 ARH through stock Ti cat back. Speed Density tune. Also with the Vararam. That was enough to run 11.80's with a 1.8 sixty on Falken RT-615K 200 TW tires and trap 123-124 at LSFest. Current ECTA Standing mile record holder at 177-179 mph in the Grand Touring Sports and Super Street classes. Very reliable and consistent, idled nice, very controllable, and would pass most at track days. Eventually we opened up the rev-limiter to 7500 so I could hang it out of the corners and bang into the next gear once the tires were straight. It still made plenty of power up there with original 45k mile lifters and rockers.
I'm no longer on a LS1 bore, but I don't think I'd change much other than perhaps the better value of the 220 heads and selling my original ones. I could have spent more money perhaps, but I think 450 is going to get the job done for you. Although Tusky's combination sounds real good. You could put the rest into the brakes, because you're going to be flying. Also, make sure you get a 4-corner steam kit on there.
As WS6 stated, couplers are a problem if you're agressive like me....Zr1 couplers on a bigger shaft is a good solution. Clutch is too. I had a 25 lb quartermaster setup for a bit, but had idle flare problems with the original ecu. I put a 45lb McLeod rxt and bleeder in it and couldn't be happier. Solid motor mounts and the phadt brace in the back kept the driveline pretty settled. You may need 2010 Camaro cv boots to clear the coilovers.
OP Youll want to look into fuel injectors and propably a descent pump as well. We have all the direct drop in parts for that, so if you need them let us know.
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Joined: Feb 2008
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Thanks for reminding me. Yes, I added a set of 18U 42lb. Deatschwerks injectors. We'll see if they're big enough to feed the new engine. Hopefully not 
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I have a 2002 C5Z that I've run in Optima events, AutoX, Track Days, and LSR. The factory shortblock served me well until I took out #7 (my fault) a couple years back. I'm now onto a LS7 based build with our 260 heads.
My old HCI combo made 450/400 with a conservative tune...std. gas, no pulleys etc. It was a TEA 2.5 job on my 243's and milled to 60cc, EPS 226/234, Fast 102, LS2 tb, 1 7/8 ARH through stock Ti cat back. Speed Density tune. Also with the Vararam. That was enough to run 11.80's with a 1.8 sixty on Falken RT-615K 200 TW tires and trap 123-124 at LSFest. Current ECTA Standing mile record holder at 177-179 mph in the Grand Touring Sports and Super Street classes. Very reliable and consistent, idled nice, very controllable, and would pass most at track days. Eventually we opened up the rev-limiter to 7500 so I could hang it out of the corners and bang into the next gear once the tires were straight. It still made plenty of power up there with original 45k mile lifters and rockers.
I'm no longer on a LS1 bore, but I don't think I'd change much other than perhaps the better value of the 220 heads and selling my original ones. I could have spent more money perhaps, but I think 450 is going to get the job done for you. Although Tusky's combination sounds real good. You could put the rest into the brakes, because you're going to be flying. Also, make sure you get a 4-corner steam kit on there.
As WS6 stated, couplers are a problem if you're agressive like me....Zr1 couplers on a bigger shaft is a good solution. Clutch is too. I had a 25 lb quartermaster setup for a bit, but had idle flare problems with the original ecu. I put a 45lb McLeod rxt and bleeder in it and couldn't be happier. Solid motor mounts and the phadt brace in the back kept the driveline pretty settled. You may need 2010 Camaro cv boots to clear the coilovers.
My old HCI combo made 450/400 with a conservative tune...std. gas, no pulleys etc. It was a TEA 2.5 job on my 243's and milled to 60cc, EPS 226/234, Fast 102, LS2 tb, 1 7/8 ARH through stock Ti cat back. Speed Density tune. Also with the Vararam. That was enough to run 11.80's with a 1.8 sixty on Falken RT-615K 200 TW tires and trap 123-124 at LSFest. Current ECTA Standing mile record holder at 177-179 mph in the Grand Touring Sports and Super Street classes. Very reliable and consistent, idled nice, very controllable, and would pass most at track days. Eventually we opened up the rev-limiter to 7500 so I could hang it out of the corners and bang into the next gear once the tires were straight. It still made plenty of power up there with original 45k mile lifters and rockers.
I'm no longer on a LS1 bore, but I don't think I'd change much other than perhaps the better value of the 220 heads and selling my original ones. I could have spent more money perhaps, but I think 450 is going to get the job done for you. Although Tusky's combination sounds real good. You could put the rest into the brakes, because you're going to be flying. Also, make sure you get a 4-corner steam kit on there.
As WS6 stated, couplers are a problem if you're agressive like me....Zr1 couplers on a bigger shaft is a good solution. Clutch is too. I had a 25 lb quartermaster setup for a bit, but had idle flare problems with the original ecu. I put a 45lb McLeod rxt and bleeder in it and couldn't be happier. Solid motor mounts and the phadt brace in the back kept the driveline pretty settled. You may need 2010 Camaro cv boots to clear the coilovers.
Originally Posted by 98_WS6_M6
Good info in here really. Good luck with your build OP. The biggest thing you can do is keep reading and speak with these vendors on the phone. I like using Tony Mamo now and he provides the best customer service that I’ve encountered so far with a shop. I always receive a response either immediately or within 12 hrs or so. Also Cam Motion is fantastic. Good luck OP
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Teching In
Joined: Sep 2017
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Well.... after all the reading ive done and what ive seen so far, ive basically made my mind up
Keep in mind i just got the car, and have recently purchased exhaust, intake a few other mods, on top of just finding out I have a kid on the way so money is gonna be a bit tight for a year or so haha.
Ive decided unless technology changes in the next year or two, the MMS223 is the head I want. Mostly because if Im honest, it doesnt matter if I google, youtube, search this forum, corvetteforum, anywhere..... Tony Mamo's name comes up. I ever watched some unrelated video the other day and he was ****** in it. He is clearly deeply involved in the LS platform, and it would seem he care about his customers.
As for supporting mod, Im convinced LLSR si the best route, keeping the future in mind. LSXR102 intake/TB and supporting fuel as well.
On a side note, I just bought a set of 243 truck heads for $200. I think im gonna get my intake/LLSR stuff set up, cam, jam these heads on, and my coil overs this winter, and its gonna run like that for a couple years until I can afford heads. Unless Tony will take payments lol.
Thanks to DarthV8r for the help, and everyone else who chimed in. Appreciate the advice.
Keep in mind i just got the car, and have recently purchased exhaust, intake a few other mods, on top of just finding out I have a kid on the way
so money is gonna be a bit tight for a year or so haha.Ive decided unless technology changes in the next year or two, the MMS223 is the head I want. Mostly because if Im honest, it doesnt matter if I google, youtube, search this forum, corvetteforum, anywhere..... Tony Mamo's name comes up. I ever watched some unrelated video the other day and he was ****** in it. He is clearly deeply involved in the LS platform, and it would seem he care about his customers.
As for supporting mod, Im convinced LLSR si the best route, keeping the future in mind. LSXR102 intake/TB and supporting fuel as well.
On a side note, I just bought a set of 243 truck heads for $200. I think im gonna get my intake/LLSR stuff set up, cam, jam these heads on, and my coil overs this winter, and its gonna run like that for a couple years until I can afford heads. Unless Tony will take payments lol.
Thanks to DarthV8r for the help, and everyone else who chimed in. Appreciate the advice.
Congrats on finding out about the new addition coming! I have a 3 week old at home now.
Sounds like a great plan overall for the car. IMO I’d stay away from the LS7 clutch. It €s just too heavy of a setup. I have a Mamo RPS but it €™s pretty expensive for a budget build. Put that on your list to look into after the baby comes. For now I €™d go with the lightest setup you can afford. Maybe something around 30ish pounds. You could do an aluminum flywheel to lighten up most combos. I know this is a big debate but I haven €™t seen anyone go to a lighter clutch and switch back to a heavier one.
This thread below is great. Really long but lots of info. Actually it €™s Scotty €™s thread who posted above. He €™s had some great results with his build so far and there €™s more left in it too.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/manual-tr...l-combo-s.html
Here is a thread on the clutch I have. Another great one and it €™s by Darth
https://ls1tech.com/forums/manual-tr...ll-review.html
Good luck with your build. In for results for sure!
edit:
another good thread
https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthrea...1864409&page=1
Sounds like a great plan overall for the car. IMO I’d stay away from the LS7 clutch. It €s just too heavy of a setup. I have a Mamo RPS but it €™s pretty expensive for a budget build. Put that on your list to look into after the baby comes. For now I €™d go with the lightest setup you can afford. Maybe something around 30ish pounds. You could do an aluminum flywheel to lighten up most combos. I know this is a big debate but I haven €™t seen anyone go to a lighter clutch and switch back to a heavier one.
This thread below is great. Really long but lots of info. Actually it €™s Scotty €™s thread who posted above. He €™s had some great results with his build so far and there €™s more left in it too.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/manual-tr...l-combo-s.html
Here is a thread on the clutch I have. Another great one and it €™s by Darth
https://ls1tech.com/forums/manual-tr...ll-review.html
Good luck with your build. In for results for sure!
edit:
another good thread
https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthrea...1864409&page=1
Last edited by 98_WS6_M6; Oct 6, 2017 at 07:59 AM.
^ both the ls7 and act arent going to work. Why spend the huge amt on top end and try to put in a cheap clutch?
If you want a heavier pedal then get like a Monster Stg3 otherwise a Mcleod rst twin will fit your stock flywheel (as long as its flat ls1) and get you exactly what youd need and the pedal is like butter.
We have the Monster set up for $729
The Mcleod RST is on sale for $690 reg $752.
Replace the slave while you are at it, gm unit is great, and add a remote or remote speed bleeder. Thats it!
If you want a heavier pedal then get like a Monster Stg3 otherwise a Mcleod rst twin will fit your stock flywheel (as long as its flat ls1) and get you exactly what youd need and the pedal is like butter.
We have the Monster set up for $729
The Mcleod RST is on sale for $690 reg $752.
Replace the slave while you are at it, gm unit is great, and add a remote or remote speed bleeder. Thats it!