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Curious to know what the consensus is on using an inline EWP with the factory mechanical pump vs using a high volume mechanical water pump??
I picked up a used Davies Craig ewp150 for $120 and looking at their website this pump moves 42.8 GPM 162 liters/min. I'd like to pwm the pump thru my Dominator to increase/decrease flow as needed by CTS or maybe make a custom table CTS vs TPS? Not sure yet or if it can be pwm'd
These things are tiny just over 3" thick 7" long 5" wide. Shouldn't be a problem fitting it into the lower rad hose. My train of thought for this is that in stop and go traffic my temps rise up and then they just kinda stay there I'd like to see them come down some to give the fans a bit of a break
I could be wrong here on this thinking, but I dont think the electric will help much, id expect the mechanical pump impeller to be a restriction for it.
And vise versa, when the mech pump starts to take over at rpm.
You have a good radiator, hows the airflow? Plenty of fan?
I could be wrong here on this thinking, but I dont think the electric will help much, id expect the mechanical pump impeller to be a restriction for it.
And vise versa, when the mech pump starts to take over at rpm.
You have a good radiator, hows the airflow? Plenty of fan?
I run Delta PAG dual 12" pushers good for like 4200 cfm +/-. I have a Mechman 170 amp racing alternator that charges at a solid 14.8v and with both fans on it'll drop to like 14.5v-14.5v at idle. I have a FMIC and airflow is pretty good straight through. I am lowered and have a new air dam on which I have trimmed an inch off and I saw immediate results from that but wonder if I might need to take a bit more off. I did make a sheet metal plate tying the bottom of the intercooler to the front GFX so air goes straight under towards the air dam.
I have also been working with a local guy on my idle timing area I was initially 15* at my 900 rpm idle and it just seemed super hot, now I'm at 22* 900 rpm idle and things are much cooler under the hood. I haven't been able to get the car out for a while because of the chit weather we been having.
I did reach out to Davies and they have lots of people out there using thier EWP on the lower rad hose with the mechanical pumps but they did mention a lot use their controllers so that pump isn't running all the time. Which is fine since I run a Dominator ECU and will make a custom I/O for on/off temps. I'm now fairly aware that a lot of this is probably just tuning that's needed to be done and a lot of this will just go away
Well I got the EWP installed today the thing is super compact, lightweight and quiet. When I turned the pump on engine off I could just barely hear the thing. I think I managed to get all the air out in the first go but since it's still raining I left the cap off and let it do it thing overnight. So before this little experiment when I was at an idle what I was seeing was temps would get up to my fan turn on temp of 188*(brushless with soft start) and once the fans were at full tilt temp still climbed up to around 193-195ish and it would come back down to 185 rinse repeat. With this EWP in there I immediately noticed that my temps wouldn't go past 190 and then it was like 45 seconds to come down to my fans off temp of 185*. So far it's looking good I just wish the weather would act right so I could go for a rip without fear of dying lol. There it is tucked down there nicely. I was able to cut my existing lower hose for the top connection then needed to raid a parts stores hose stash to get from the radiator to the pump. I needed a Z shaped hose and luckily found one I could work with
I wonder if it would be practical to make them work in parallel, with check valves.
Engine off, the EWP does all the work - or does nothing if the temp is already reasonable.
Idle and cruise, the mechanical does all the work.
WOT, they both work, and you move water through rad and block faster than either one alone.
Post-WOT idle and cruise, if the temps are still high, the extra flow from the EWP should bring temps down faster than the mechanical would by itself.
If I was in that business I think I'd be looking into how to make a single pump-and-valves unit (with optional temp sensor + motor controller) that people could install inline with minimal custom work.
I wonder if it would be practical to make them work in parallel, with check valves.
Engine off, the EWP does all the work - or does nothing if the temp is already reasonable.
Idle and cruise, the mechanical does all the work.
WOT, they both work, and you move water through rad and block faster than either one alone.
Post-WOT idle and cruise, if the temps are still high, the extra flow from the EWP should bring temps down faster than the mechanical would by itself.
If I was in that business I think I'd be looking into how to make a single pump-and-valves unit (with optional temp sensor + motor controller) that people could install inline with minimal custom work.
They way I have it setup in my Dominator is my fans come on at 188 then the ewp on at 189 and both off at 185. Currently it's not even going over 191 before it drops back to 185 and it only takes like 45 seconds for that to happen. Davies Craig does make a system that eliminates the mechanical pump with their setup that relies entirely on the ewp in conjunction with their controller.
Inline EWP vs high volume water pump 
