Can this LS6 intake be fixed/saved?
#1
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I won an LS6 intake on ebay. It arrived the other day but upon opening the box (the sender used paper as packing material) I found the rear Map sensor broke off. I took it to the post office to ask about the insurance claim. They will only give me $100 (and keep the damaged part) or pay up to that to fix it.
It appears to them and me that the box was dropped on end and the intake fell inside the box on its back side, forcing the map sensor to push inward breaking the area where the MAP sensor mounts.
I was thinking of doing one of the following:
Here is a picture of the rear side of the intake:
![](http://haascnc.com/service/restricted/BS/tt/DSC01625.JPG)
Same picture, a little closer with better lighting:
![](http://haascnc.com/service/restricted/BS/tt/DSC01626.JPG)
here is the Map sensor mounting piece, which appears undamaged, and the pieces from inside the rear panel of the intake.
It appears to them and me that the box was dropped on end and the intake fell inside the box on its back side, forcing the map sensor to push inward breaking the area where the MAP sensor mounts.
I was thinking of doing one of the following:
- JB welding the outside area that is missing and possibly fabricating something to keep the MAP sensor on it.
- Fabricating a piece of sheet metal (or machining some material) to make a new hole to mount the map sensor then bolting it on the rear of the intake maybe with some RTV in between the pieces.
- cutting a larger square shape piece from my LS1 intake and machining a taper or step then placing it into a hole cut out of the rear of the LS6 intake with the same taper or offset.
- gluing or JB welding the broken pieces to the inside of the rear side of the intake. This option scares me, because I would hate for a piece to break off and get sucked into the intake.
Here is a picture of the rear side of the intake:
Same picture, a little closer with better lighting:
here is the Map sensor mounting piece, which appears undamaged, and the pieces from inside the rear panel of the intake.
Last edited by ROCNDAV; 06-10-2005 at 01:14 AM.
#2
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Ugh, that looks pretty bad.
I think the only way to properly fix it it to use the same composite material (Nylon 66?) that the intake was originally made out of maybe?
I would at the very least have a plastics specialist handle it, if it can be fixed at all that is.
![Sad](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_sad.gif)
I think the only way to properly fix it it to use the same composite material (Nylon 66?) that the intake was originally made out of maybe?
I would at the very least have a plastics specialist handle it, if it can be fixed at all that is.
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That is exactly what happened to mine. Option 4, I used JB weld and it worked great. I had to soak the manifold in a garbage can of detergent and water for several days to get rid of the oil, then I cleaned it with solvent and fabricated a way to hold it in place. The hardest part of the whole thing was getting the part back to the right place since it had to go in from the front. The good news is yes it can be done. Fix it and take your 100 bucks. Here's a pic of how mine turned out.
Just make sure that it's really clean, super clean!
http://www.circuitflex.com/LS6Fix.jpg
Dale
Just make sure that it's really clean, super clean!
http://www.circuitflex.com/LS6Fix.jpg
Dale
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dawm,thats pretty bad I would send it back to the seller..he shipped it so he should have insured it for more!!! I always add extra insurance when shipping costly items...
#6
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Originally Posted by CaptUSA
No chance of sending it back to the guy you bought it from as damaged goods? I'd call him at least. That's jacked. ![Sad](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_sad.gif)
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David
#7
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Originally Posted by chris2000ss
dawm,thats pretty bad I would send it back to the seller..he shipped it so he should have insured it for more!!! I always add extra insurance when shipping costly items...
Ah, the downside to not purchasing from a sponsor
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D
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#8
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Originally Posted by DaleMX
That is exactly what happened to mine. Option 4, I used JB weld and it worked great. I had to soak the manifold in a garbage can of detergent and water for several days to get rid of the oil, then I cleaned it with solvent and fabricated a way to hold it in place. The hardest part of the whole thing was getting the part back to the right place since it had to go in from the front. The good news is yes it can be done. Fix it and take your 100 bucks. Here's a pic of how mine turned out.
Just make sure that it's really clean, super clean!
http://www.circuitflex.com/LS6Fix.jpg
Dale
Just make sure that it's really clean, super clean!
http://www.circuitflex.com/LS6Fix.jpg
Dale
![](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_jest.gif)
David
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Zytel can be plastic welded. Check local plastic
fabricators. I would for sure have them put a
smooth, proper diameter metal ring inside during
the process (maybe a deep socket will be a
fortunate fit) just to keep from warping the
seating cylinder.
JB is good too, just clean it three times as good
as you think it needs. Might scuff sand it too
where you can, that would give a better bite.
fabricators. I would for sure have them put a
smooth, proper diameter metal ring inside during
the process (maybe a deep socket will be a
fortunate fit) just to keep from warping the
seating cylinder.
JB is good too, just clean it three times as good
as you think it needs. Might scuff sand it too
where you can, that would give a better bite.
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Originally Posted by ROCNDAV
It looks like you sealed yours completely in the back? Where are you mounting your MAP sensor hole plug? I might be able to go that route too as the pieces do go back fairly easy. I've worked wonders w/ JB weld before
(as long as the pieces have been prepped clean).
David
![](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_jest.gif)
David
My chunk looked exactly like that except it was actually split into 2 chunks.
Dale
#11
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Originally Posted by DaleMX
Ah yes, it just looks sealed, that's masking tape that I put on it before I painted it.
My chunk looked exactly like that except it was actually split into 2 chunks.
Dale
My chunk looked exactly like that except it was actually split into 2 chunks.
Dale
Have you ran your motor yet, or are you still in the build process? IF so, how many miles do you have on it?
Thanks,
David
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That is so weird, well it seems that those intakes have a weak spot there.
The engine is waiting to be installed, but the bond from the JB is really strong. When I put the plastic adapter back in I ran some silicone around it and mounted it permanently. If it came loose I would be very suprised. But I am also considering a LS2 intake conversion. If parts for the conversion look economical I'll do that before it runs.
The only thing I'm really waiting on are my heads from Jay at Absolute and I expect them around the end of the month. Then it's showtime. 2,550 lbs of 280Z with a LS1/T56 crammed in it along with a 3.79 limited slip rearend.
I may be too scared to run it hard for a while so the vacuum should be high most of the time. I guess that's a good test for the intake.
I used JB weld and some wire to hold a column shifter together on an old Ford F150. When I sold the truck it had held up for 2 years and was still going strong. If it held up under that then I believe the intake will be fine as long as the area in question is super clean and roughed up a bit.
Dale
The engine is waiting to be installed, but the bond from the JB is really strong. When I put the plastic adapter back in I ran some silicone around it and mounted it permanently. If it came loose I would be very suprised. But I am also considering a LS2 intake conversion. If parts for the conversion look economical I'll do that before it runs.
The only thing I'm really waiting on are my heads from Jay at Absolute and I expect them around the end of the month. Then it's showtime. 2,550 lbs of 280Z with a LS1/T56 crammed in it along with a 3.79 limited slip rearend.
I may be too scared to run it hard for a while so the vacuum should be high most of the time. I guess that's a good test for the intake.
I used JB weld and some wire to hold a column shifter together on an old Ford F150. When I sold the truck it had held up for 2 years and was still going strong. If it held up under that then I believe the intake will be fine as long as the area in question is super clean and roughed up a bit.
Dale
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matt
#16
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Originally Posted by redbandit98
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matt
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#17
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I never did post my repair job. As Im getting ready to post tis on ebay, I found my old pics from when I repaired the intake.
THese are the first day, clamping the broken parts, one at a time and putting a little bit of JB weld to hold it in place. I would add more later.
THese are the first day, clamping the broken parts, one at a time and putting a little bit of JB weld to hold it in place. I would add more later.
#20
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Some more pics of the Map Sensor connector installed. I forgot to mention that the tab had broken off of the map sensor connector (what do we call that piece anyway?
)
I was told that it wasn't needed, and if I really wanted, I could use a wire tie to hold it on. The Fast 90mm Intake doesn't have a tab on it's piece.
I still chose to fix it (the stubborn guy that I am
)
![Happy](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_stretch.gif)
I was told that it wasn't needed, and if I really wanted, I could use a wire tie to hold it on. The Fast 90mm Intake doesn't have a tab on it's piece.
I still chose to fix it (the stubborn guy that I am
![Grin](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_grin.gif)