Poly Motor Mounts or Mufflex Hanger?
Poly Motor Mounts or Mufflex Hanger? Alright guys, chime in with your opinions. I have a slight banging at WOT, and I would like to fix it. What would be the better long term solution, the mufflex hanger or some poly motor mounts?
I know that the polys are a PITA to install, so how much do you think someone would charge me to put them in if I decided to go that route, but not do them myself?
I know that the polys are a PITA to install, so how much do you think someone would charge me to put them in if I decided to go that route, but not do them myself?
12 Second Club
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 262
Likes: 1
From: Holiday, Fl.
I have the same prob. right now. I am gonna get the poly motor mounts.
1. You'll get better weight transfer on launch-power lifts front end instead of twisting motor.
2. I don't want my Ypipe(xpipe)/hanger/floor trying to stop the motor from twisting. The motor will still move, so something is gonna have to flex.
I have no idea what someone would charge, but it looks pretty labor intensive and aggravating. I plan on doing mine(or trying
)
1. You'll get better weight transfer on launch-power lifts front end instead of twisting motor.
2. I don't want my Ypipe(xpipe)/hanger/floor trying to stop the motor from twisting. The motor will still move, so something is gonna have to flex.
I have no idea what someone would charge, but it looks pretty labor intensive and aggravating. I plan on doing mine(or trying
) 
TECH Regular
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 404
Likes: 0
From: Raleigh, NC
It took me about 6.5hrs on the driver side, and 4 on the pass side the first time. If I were to do it again I bet I could do it in 4hrs, and 3hrs. So whoever does it for you, I guess plan on somewhere around these hours for labor. I would decide on a number before they start in on it, cause they will probably wish they had agreed for more once they get in the middle of it all.
The hanger may fix a little Y banging.
The hanger may fix a little Y banging.
You may like to pump silicone into the moter mounts ( get a good grade which drys hard ) time =15-30 minutes, when dry mounts are quite stiff, may take 36-48 hours to dry ,, you may like to apply in layers to insure it dryes complete, or I insert small hollow straws into the wet silicone for several hours - then remove straws to allow it to dry inside ( spray straw for wd-40 can)
just my $0.02's, works for me, Johnny
just my $0.02's, works for me, Johnny
Only reason I could see to not do the poly mounts is-it will transalate more vibrations into the chassis, and dash. So more rattles.
If you put any sort of hanger on the drivers side pipe, it will keep the pipe in the place that it sits, with very little movement. But, it was moving an 1/8" to 1/4" in order for it to hit the floor (however close it is to the floor). Wont the stress the hanger is creating, trying to hold the pipe, be translated into the headers then? More specifically, the flanges?
If you put any sort of hanger on the drivers side pipe, it will keep the pipe in the place that it sits, with very little movement. But, it was moving an 1/8" to 1/4" in order for it to hit the floor (however close it is to the floor). Wont the stress the hanger is creating, trying to hold the pipe, be translated into the headers then? More specifically, the flanges?
Originally Posted by Cstick
It took me about 6.5hrs on the driver side, and 4 on the pass side the first time. If I were to do it again I bet I could do it in 4hrs, and 3hrs. So whoever does it for you, I guess plan on somewhere around these hours for labor. I would decide on a number before they start in on it, cause they will probably wish they had agreed for more once they get in the middle of it all.
The hanger may fix a little Y banging.
The hanger may fix a little Y banging.
I purchased some ploy mounts, but after looking at the bolts holding the old mounts to the engine, I cannot fathom how you can even reach these bolts with LT headers installed.
What did you do?
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Originally Posted by psykoTA
Only reason I could see to not do the poly mounts is-it will transalate more vibrations into the chassis, and dash. So more rattles.
Dope
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Originally Posted by Dope
You'd think so, but the opposite is true. I had less vibration and rattles after the poly mounts. I've read of other people having the same experience.
Dope
Dope
Just a T1 cam with stock idle speed. It used to rattle the console at idle, now it doesn't. The engine used to jump around in the engine bay like crazy at idle (or if you revved it), now it's practically still by comparison. One of the few mods that there were NO downsides to (except for a huge PITA install). Not to mention the y-pipe didn't bang anymore!
Dope
Dope
Originally Posted by Dope
Just a T1 cam with stock idle speed. It used to rattle the console at idle, now it doesn't. The engine used to jump around in the engine bay like crazy at idle (or if you revved it), now it's practically still by comparison. One of the few mods that there were NO downsides to (except for a huge PITA install). Not to mention the y-pipe didn't bang anymore!
Dope
Dope
Okay, you guys have made my mind up. I'm gonna order the Prothane poly motor mounts tomorrow night, if the Valentine's Day dinner with the fiancee doesn't kill my bank account. 
I never installed the pass side mount. The drivers side took about 1.5 hours to install and cured all my problems. Mine helped with vibration also. The engine moved a lot just at idle before. Now that I am putting in the 382 the pass side mount will be installed too.