Pacesetter Longtube/ORY install done!
#1
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From: Manteca, CA
Pacesetter Longtube/ORY install done!
I just wanted to thank good friends with more knowledge than I, and my wonderful wife for an awesome job! Thanks especially to Jermzz!
I would also share my appreciation to everyone for their contribution to my pre-project knowledge. I must say I hate the stock manifolds and cats, and the a-hole that put the passenger side O2 sensor right above/behind the cat on the passenger side...
Car will definately get noticed now! If you are thinking about Longtubes, just do it!
I would also share my appreciation to everyone for their contribution to my pre-project knowledge. I must say I hate the stock manifolds and cats, and the a-hole that put the passenger side O2 sensor right above/behind the cat on the passenger side...
Car will definately get noticed now! If you are thinking about Longtubes, just do it!
#5
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From: Manteca, CA
Originally Posted by T-maxx
Sounds like it's time for a cam install. What cat-back are you running?
We ran it today through the cutout, it is FOOKING LOUD!!
Just have to work out a homemade bump stop mod for the ORY...
EDIT: Stock CME catback system to offset the cutout...
#6
spend the $40 for the Mufflex one, it's worth it.
LS69TA..I'm running pacesetters & an ORY with the stock cat back, it's a 3" SLP. Someone correct me if I'm wrong but I think all SS's came with a 3" SLP or the CME exhuast. I would assume the WS6 cars also came with 3" exhaust ?
If that's the case then 3" is 3" and I don't think there's anything to be gained by going to something else and I would stick with your plan.
LS69TA..I'm running pacesetters & an ORY with the stock cat back, it's a 3" SLP. Someone correct me if I'm wrong but I think all SS's came with a 3" SLP or the CME exhuast. I would assume the WS6 cars also came with 3" exhaust ?
If that's the case then 3" is 3" and I don't think there's anything to be gained by going to something else and I would stick with your plan.
#7
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From: Manteca, CA
Originally Posted by SLPSS01
spend the $40 for the Mufflex one, it's worth it.
LS69TA..I'm running pacesetters & an ORY with the stock cat back, it's a 3" SLP. Someone correct me if I'm wrong but I think all SS's came with a 3" SLP or the CME exhuast. I would assume the WS6 cars also came with 3" exhaust ?
If that's the case then 3" is 3" and I don't think there's anything to be gained by going to something else and I would stick with your plan.
LS69TA..I'm running pacesetters & an ORY with the stock cat back, it's a 3" SLP. Someone correct me if I'm wrong but I think all SS's came with a 3" SLP or the CME exhuast. I would assume the WS6 cars also came with 3" exhaust ?
If that's the case then 3" is 3" and I don't think there's anything to be gained by going to something else and I would stick with your plan.
The only problem is that I read somewhere you have to take the Y-pipe off to get the Mufflex on... That isn't going to happen, since to get the y-pipe on it eventually took a sawzall and required welding. My whole exhaust is now welded together so nothing is coming off without more cutting and welding...
Or am I wrong? Can the Mufflex bump stop clamp around the y-pipe without having to remove anything? Even if I just had it clamped I would be reluctant to remove that ORY, as it was a royal pain in the rear to get on (the ORY took the longest in the assembly)!!!
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#8
Originally Posted by Azrael
Can the Mufflex bump stop clamp around the y-pipe without having to remove anything? Even if I just had it clamped I would be reluctant to remove that ORY, as it was a royal pain in the rear to get on (the ORY took the longest in the assembly)!!!
#9
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From: Manteca, CA
Originally Posted by Azrael
EDIT: Stock CME catback system to offset the cutout...
I guess I need a muffler for the CME for at least some exhaust note with the cutout closed...
#10
i put my longtubes on about a week and a half after i had the car. it didnt line up with my catback so i had to cut it off and run open Y pipe for about 2 weeks. it was nice but really loud, now im just running a boral XR1 muffler. i think im going true duals with straight pipes though. car should sound nice with the mods i have.
#11
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From: Manteca, CA
Originally Posted by SOM 02
i put my longtubes on about a week and a half after i had the car. it didnt line up with my catback so i had to cut it off and run open Y pipe for about 2 weeks. it was nice but really loud, now im just running a boral XR1 muffler. i think im going true duals with straight pipes though. car should sound nice with the mods i have.
#12
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From: Live Oak, FL - in the woods where the creatures lurk.
Did you weld the Y to the I pipe? The Y to the collectors?
If all that was welded was the Y to the I pipe, you 've got some adustability left by loosening the collector /Y clamps and the 2 piece ORY clamp. A two foot pry bar works good wedged under the drivers' side Y before tightening everything up.
I thought my Y was bumping the floor board and I RTV'd a piece of heater hose to the floorboard. Turns out it was the tunnel brace. I decided to keep the brace but washer it out.
Edit: also using band clamps adds to the adjustability.
If all that was welded was the Y to the I pipe, you 've got some adustability left by loosening the collector /Y clamps and the 2 piece ORY clamp. A two foot pry bar works good wedged under the drivers' side Y before tightening everything up.
I thought my Y was bumping the floor board and I RTV'd a piece of heater hose to the floorboard. Turns out it was the tunnel brace. I decided to keep the brace but washer it out.
Edit: also using band clamps adds to the adjustability.
#13
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From: Manteca, CA
Originally Posted by gwj
Did you weld the Y to the I pipe? The Y to the collectors?
If all that was welded was the Y to the I pipe, you 've got some adustability left by loosening the collector /Y clamps and the 2 piece ORY clamp. A two foot pry bar works good wedged under the drivers' side Y before tightening everything up.
I thought my Y was bumping the floor board and I RTV'd a piece of heater hose to the floorboard. Turns out it was the tunnel brace. I decided to keep the brace but washer it out.
Edit: also using band clamps adds to the adjustability.
If all that was welded was the Y to the I pipe, you 've got some adustability left by loosening the collector /Y clamps and the 2 piece ORY clamp. A two foot pry bar works good wedged under the drivers' side Y before tightening everything up.
I thought my Y was bumping the floor board and I RTV'd a piece of heater hose to the floorboard. Turns out it was the tunnel brace. I decided to keep the brace but washer it out.
Edit: also using band clamps adds to the adjustability.
Oh well I will figure something out...
#14
It might be possible to open it enough to get it on without removing the pipe but
I can't say for sure. I remember it being made of fairly thick material so I don't know how much you can actually open it up, I slid mine on with the Y disconnected from the cat back. Maybe someone else has tried this.
I can't say for sure. I remember it being made of fairly thick material so I don't know how much you can actually open it up, I slid mine on with the Y disconnected from the cat back. Maybe someone else has tried this.
#15
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From: Live Oak, FL - in the woods where the creatures lurk.
Well, if the drivers' side of the Y is banging, you could get some heater hose and slide in there, split it first if you have to. Some red RTV on the floor side will hold it in place. You'll probably notice some more vibration, though.
Or poly motor mounts.......
Or poly motor mounts.......
#16
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From: Manteca, CA
Originally Posted by gwj
Well, if the drivers' side of the Y is banging, you could get some heater hose and slide in there, split it first if you have to. Some red RTV on the floor side will hold it in place. You'll probably notice some more vibration, though.
Or poly motor mounts.......
Or poly motor mounts.......
Actually I was going to try that with a large hose clamp and thread the clamp through a split tube and tighten it down around the y-pipe, or fab up my own Mufflex stop with a u-clamp and exhaust hangers.
Thanks for your insight! I may end up going with the poly motor mounts anyway...
#18
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From: Manteca, CA
Originally Posted by LastBlack02SS
I hate to sound like such a newb idiot, but what the heck is a bump stop? Some detail explanation, picture, or link would be great. Sorry if its a dumb question.
The bump stop is like an exhaust hanger made by Mufflex that actually goes around the Y-pipe (ORY in this case) and uses an exhaust hanger rubber grommet to keep the y-pipe from banging on the floorboard of the car. When th eengine torques or vibrates on the stock motor mounts the longtubes and y-pipe tend to vibrate or bang against the driver's side floor. Extreme cases can set off the knock sensor and retard timing...
#19
Originally Posted by Azrael
I just wanted to thank good friends with more knowledge than I, and my wonderful wife for an awesome job! Thanks especially to Jermzz!
I would also share my appreciation to everyone for their contribution to my pre-project knowledge. I must say I hate the stock manifolds and cats, and the a-hole that put the passenger side O2 sensor right above/behind the cat on the passenger side...
Car will definately get noticed now! If you are thinking about Longtubes, just do it!
I would also share my appreciation to everyone for their contribution to my pre-project knowledge. I must say I hate the stock manifolds and cats, and the a-hole that put the passenger side O2 sensor right above/behind the cat on the passenger side...
Car will definately get noticed now! If you are thinking about Longtubes, just do it!
When are we doing the cam????
PS: damn old post, but I fond it.
#20
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From: Manteca, CA
Originally Posted by jermzz
My pleasure to help you Jack, you know working on these cars is my passion!
When are we doing the cam????
PS: damn old post, but I fond it.
When are we doing the cam????
PS: damn old post, but I fond it.
Time has been the deciding factor lately. With the weather and season there has been too many opportunities to work over time, so my days off have been little to none...
It will probably now be sometime after the new year...
Thanks again dude!