Who has ported the LS6 intake manifold?
06-12-2006, 07:15 PM
#42
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Originally Posted by New Era Performance
I have never tested the stock LS6 verses ported just doing a before and after swapping only the intake , but we regularly do common set ups on similar vehicles and every time we uses a ported LS6 intake verses nonported the car always makes 5-10 more rwhp as long as it is properly tuned .
06-16-2006, 10:41 AM
#43
Well, ported it out last night. So far so good. I was surprised how slowly the material is removed. I think the aluminum heads port quicker than this stuff. Anyway, I opened up the throttle body neck as much as possible and removed any seams and smoothed any ridges. The runners were much more difficult. I smoothed out any seams or casting marks, and I blended the bottom of the injector area. I did try and gently enlarge the actual runners, but the material cuts very slow so I didnt take very much off at all. Perhaps about 1/32" off the walls. I finiished it smooth as best I could with a couple sanding cartrides afterward. I decided to stop there for the night, clean out the intake and reassemble. So far so good. I dont notice any difference really, which is what I was hoping for. I didnt want to kill the low end. And If I had to guess, Id say its only worth a couple HP up top anyway judging by how little material was actually removed. Perhaps some time in the future Ill try and port it out a little further and get some more flow out of it.
06-18-2006, 09:41 AM
#44
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I port matched mine to my Patriot LS6 heads...
I took a good amount off in the runners with a fine grit sand roll on a dremel,and set it to a low speed...if you do it to fast the plastic will melt and make blemishes in the port you dont want. It might take a fine....i sat there doing a little at a time and kept measuring it to get it exactly to my heads.
There is no need in my opinion to take material from behind the TB.
here is a pic....i finished it out by hand with sandpaper.... I went about 4 inches in.
Also this picture is not the finished product...this is before i finished it out with a fine grit sandpaper pad by hand.
I took a good amount off in the runners with a fine grit sand roll on a dremel,and set it to a low speed...if you do it to fast the plastic will melt and make blemishes in the port you dont want. It might take a fine....i sat there doing a little at a time and kept measuring it to get it exactly to my heads.
There is no need in my opinion to take material from behind the TB.
here is a pic....i finished it out by hand with sandpaper.... I went about 4 inches in.
Also this picture is not the finished product...this is before i finished it out with a fine grit sandpaper pad by hand.
06-18-2006, 08:01 PM
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I truly believe it's the combination of the runners and the tb area that will yeild the largest overall gain.
If you do one or the other, there are a few ponies left on the table to be had. Opening up the actual manifold from a half-cross-section is probably not a good idea, because what you don't want to do is upset the shape of the runners very much since This is where the tq comes from (R&D baby!). The TB area will mostly decrease turbulance, which will increase airflow potential, which will increase high rpm flow, which will increase hp. Because of the small amount that can be done, and the fact the shapes are left virtually intact, there is little-to-no detriment to other areas of the rpm range.
If you do one or the other, there are a few ponies left on the table to be had. Opening up the actual manifold from a half-cross-section is probably not a good idea, because what you don't want to do is upset the shape of the runners very much since This is where the tq comes from (R&D baby!). The TB area will mostly decrease turbulance, which will increase airflow potential, which will increase high rpm flow, which will increase hp. Because of the small amount that can be done, and the fact the shapes are left virtually intact, there is little-to-no detriment to other areas of the rpm range.
06-18-2006, 10:30 PM
#46
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not to be a jerk or anything, but i would like to know who ported your ls6 manifold lsx24. you say not to disturb the port shape..............go back and look at your pictures. you can see at the port openings where someone got crazy and gouged out pieces. normally the port walls are somewhat straight. yours are not. hart attack did it the right way. you go get your heads and you measure the opening and you make your intake opening close to the same. you want the opening on the intake a little smaller. you also want to grind down the brass fitting that pokes into the tb opening and try and open up the opening as much as you feel safe with while still keeping a taper. you can open up the back part of the tb opening alot. on the ports you dont wanna mess with the floor much at all if any. the port is on the short turn radius and thus has the faster airflow acrossed it. blend the walls and roof of the port into a gradual larger port opening. if i had to estimate i would say you could safely remove 1mm (.040") anywhere inside the intake. i have ported a couple of these but unfortunatly i have no pics. the only thing i see on lsx24's intake that would increase flow is around the top of the port, by the injector you can see where alot of material was removed. this is a good place to work with, i personally dont remove that much material but its something for you guys to work with on your own projects
Last edited by fast98; 06-18-2006 at 10:36 PM.
06-19-2006, 07:46 AM
#48
Originally Posted by 1sick'98WS6
i had no idea this could be done
06-19-2006, 08:50 AM
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Originally Posted by fast98
not to be a jerk or anything, but i would like to know who ported your ls6 manifold lsx24. you say not to disturb the port shape..............go back and look at your pictures. you can see at the port openings where someone got crazy and gouged out pieces. normally the port walls are somewhat straight. yours are not. hart attack did it the right way. you go get your heads and you measure the opening and you make your intake opening close to the same. you want the opening on the intake a little smaller. you also want to grind down the brass fitting that pokes into the tb opening and try and open up the opening as much as you feel safe with while still keeping a taper. you can open up the back part of the tb opening alot. on the ports you dont wanna mess with the floor much at all if any. the port is on the short turn radius and thus has the faster airflow acrossed it. blend the walls and roof of the port into a gradual larger port opening. if i had to estimate i would say you could safely remove 1mm (.040") anywhere inside the intake. i have ported a couple of these but unfortunatly i have no pics. the only thing i see on lsx24's intake that would increase flow is around the top of the port, by the injector you can see where alot of material was removed. this is a good place to work with, i personally dont remove that much material but its something for you guys to work with on your own projects
I was told my intake manifold was ported by Cartek, and obviously it's not perfect. I believe that it was their stage I job, which is substantially less money than further itterations, but I don't know the pricings or the timings off hand. Yes it's not picture perfect, but it's functional without going overboard.
When I say you do not want to disturb the shape of the ports, I'm referring to an earlier question about opening up the entire intake manifold from the cross-section, then hogging out the ports from the inside. This is not what you want to do. The interior design of the ports is what gives them the ability to make hp without sacrificing tq (if you've seen any of the FAST cross-section heat-flow images you know what I mean). That is the area you don't want to mess with.
However, the end of the ports are prone to be a high-flow restriction. Much like port matching it to a set of heads they could use some port work and will not effect tq numbers because the exits of the ports are not nearly as important as the interior port shape. Not to mention, the amount of material, removable from the ends is minimal compared to the cross section area of the port itself. The more time you spend smoothing the ports and making them perfect the better, but time is money my friend and DIY jobs offer much more flexibilty in that regards.
06-19-2006, 09:57 AM
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Originally Posted by lsx24
Those are some great questions based on design vs implementation, let me see if I can answer them right here.
I was told my intake manifold was ported by Cartek, and obviously it's not perfect. I believe that it was their stage I job, which is substantially less money than further itterations, but I don't know the pricings or the timings off hand. Yes it's not picture perfect, but it's functional without going overboard.
When I say you do not want to disturb the shape of the ports, I'm referring to an earlier question about opening up the entire intake manifold from the cross-section, then hogging out the ports from the inside. This is not what you want to do. The interior design of the ports is what gives them the ability to make hp without sacrificing tq (if you've seen any of the FAST cross-section heat-flow images you know what I mean). That is the area you don't want to mess with.
However, the end of the ports are prone to be a high-flow restriction. Much like port matching it to a set of heads they could use some port work and will not effect tq numbers because the exits of the ports are not nearly as important as the interior port shape. Not to mention, the amount of material, removable from the ends is minimal compared to the cross section area of the port itself. The more time you spend smoothing the ports and making them perfect the better, but time is money my friend and DIY jobs offer much more flexibilty in that regards.
I was told my intake manifold was ported by Cartek, and obviously it's not perfect. I believe that it was their stage I job, which is substantially less money than further itterations, but I don't know the pricings or the timings off hand. Yes it's not picture perfect, but it's functional without going overboard.
When I say you do not want to disturb the shape of the ports, I'm referring to an earlier question about opening up the entire intake manifold from the cross-section, then hogging out the ports from the inside. This is not what you want to do. The interior design of the ports is what gives them the ability to make hp without sacrificing tq (if you've seen any of the FAST cross-section heat-flow images you know what I mean). That is the area you don't want to mess with.
However, the end of the ports are prone to be a high-flow restriction. Much like port matching it to a set of heads they could use some port work and will not effect tq numbers because the exits of the ports are not nearly as important as the interior port shape. Not to mention, the amount of material, removable from the ends is minimal compared to the cross section area of the port itself. The more time you spend smoothing the ports and making them perfect the better, but time is money my friend and DIY jobs offer much more flexibilty in that regards.
01-25-2007, 06:27 PM
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Originally Posted by GuitsBoy
Well, ported it out last night. So far so good. I was surprised how slowly the material is removed. I think the aluminum heads port quicker than this stuff. Anyway, I opened up the throttle body neck as much as possible and removed any seams and smoothed any ridges. The runners were much more difficult. I smoothed out any seams or casting marks, and I blended the bottom of the injector area. I did try and gently enlarge the actual runners, but the material cuts very slow so I didnt take very much off at all. Perhaps about 1/32" off the walls. I finiished it smooth as best I could with a couple sanding cartrides afterward. I decided to stop there for the night, clean out the intake and reassemble. So far so good. I dont notice any difference really, which is what I was hoping for. I didnt want to kill the low end. And If I had to guess, Id say its only worth a couple HP up top anyway judging by how little material was actually removed. Perhaps some time in the future Ill try and port it out a little further and get some more flow out of it.
$150 is really a good deal, when Absolute Speed was around they charged like over $250 to do the same work, and that was a good deal. If it's worth another 10 rwhp, at high rpm, which I could see based on the amount of removed material, it would be worth it.
01-25-2007, 06:49 PM
#53
Originally Posted by lsx24
Did you notice any seat of the pants difference? You didn't get it dynoed before and after did you? Any pics?
$150 is really a good deal, when Absolute Speed was around they charged like over $250 to do the same work, and that was a good deal. If it's worth another 10 rwhp, at high rpm, which I could see based on the amount of removed material, it would be worth it.
$150 is really a good deal, when Absolute Speed was around they charged like over $250 to do the same work, and that was a good deal. If it's worth another 10 rwhp, at high rpm, which I could see based on the amount of removed material, it would be worth it.
02-12-2007, 01:12 AM
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Originally Posted by lsx24
Guys sorry I really don't know what could have happened I wasn't able to find the ones I searched everywhere and came up with nothing Perhaps there was a another reason but I can't seem to land it at the moment Anyway I totally don't think it made a difference for the only reason I know there were some somewhere Its now over many years and I haven't the first idea where to find them I had one of the front and others from the side and there were many in my office and a few from the owner but there was one that had a fabulously stupendous effect something that displayed the true composite component in addition to the aftermarket customization and I don't know what happened to it where it could be where I might of put it or what the heck I did with it.
04-04-2007, 11:37 AM
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definately in on this. In a couple of weeks, I should have some extra $$ saved up to send the manifold to get the work done. I will be doing a cam very shortly after so I'll let you guys know before and after dynos after everything is all said and done in ~1-2 months from now. (assuming my finances stay right!)
