stock airpump crankcase ventilation/vaccum system pics and vid!
#1
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ok here it is, i've had this setup on my car for a month now and no more oil in the intake, i still use oil but nick at are says that its because of the ring setup for the turbo kit on the way.
this can only be done if you are not using your factory air pump currently and have most of the tubing, i couldnt find my bracket but it would work as good in that as tie strapped up like i have mine
anyways it uses the factory air pump in factory location with only factory tubing.
the entire factory pcv setup is capped off exept for 2 spots
passenger valvecover middle: i have one pep boys ricer breather($7) to allow a small amount of fresh air in.
driver firewall end valvecover: one end of the main airpump hose over the entire port up to the wide portion and screwclamped into place... this runs down and along the brake lines up to where the fender hole is where the airpump is located.
once there run it to the big hose (may need more than one piece) down the hole into that open space, and run it into the big port on the airpump. on the small side, screw clamp on one of the short peices of hose to let it point down towards the ground for the discharge
wiring: run a positive wire from the big red terminal directly above down to the +12v in of a 30 amp automotive relay ($6)
at this time find the wires that used to go to the air pump. cut before the plug so that you have bare wire exposed from the airpump and from the wiring harness.. on the pump side, twist the 2 red wires together and put a spade connector on it. same for the single black wire. put these on the 12v and ground out of the relay
on the harness side, tape off the 2 red wires to insulate and then run the black wire to the ground side of the relay with a spade connector.
last thing to do is run a 'on' wire to it.. can be done a few ways, you can have it on when the car is running, in this case have it hooked into an accesory in the fuse box, i have it hooked to a throttle position microswitch ($2) so when i am anything much over idle it comes on. but i ordered a window switch from harlan which will be here soon and installed so that any time im over 2000 rpm it will run so when i let off say after a pass, it will still run even though im at 0% throttle untill it goes under 2k rpm
so i have the throttle position switch wired between hot and the on switc so any time i press the gas it comes on.
so here are the pics, at the bottom of this section.. you will see the layout, the throttle switch and wires, the filter, the inlet toward the pump, and then some crappy shots of the pump, inlet and outlet tubes, the relay and some of the simple wiring..
i need someone to email me to host the vid please.. its 1.3meg and it shows me activating the pump etc. so email me, i think its pretty cool!
the pictures
this can only be done if you are not using your factory air pump currently and have most of the tubing, i couldnt find my bracket but it would work as good in that as tie strapped up like i have mine
anyways it uses the factory air pump in factory location with only factory tubing.
the entire factory pcv setup is capped off exept for 2 spots
passenger valvecover middle: i have one pep boys ricer breather($7) to allow a small amount of fresh air in.
driver firewall end valvecover: one end of the main airpump hose over the entire port up to the wide portion and screwclamped into place... this runs down and along the brake lines up to where the fender hole is where the airpump is located.
once there run it to the big hose (may need more than one piece) down the hole into that open space, and run it into the big port on the airpump. on the small side, screw clamp on one of the short peices of hose to let it point down towards the ground for the discharge
wiring: run a positive wire from the big red terminal directly above down to the +12v in of a 30 amp automotive relay ($6)
at this time find the wires that used to go to the air pump. cut before the plug so that you have bare wire exposed from the airpump and from the wiring harness.. on the pump side, twist the 2 red wires together and put a spade connector on it. same for the single black wire. put these on the 12v and ground out of the relay
on the harness side, tape off the 2 red wires to insulate and then run the black wire to the ground side of the relay with a spade connector.
last thing to do is run a 'on' wire to it.. can be done a few ways, you can have it on when the car is running, in this case have it hooked into an accesory in the fuse box, i have it hooked to a throttle position microswitch ($2) so when i am anything much over idle it comes on. but i ordered a window switch from harlan which will be here soon and installed so that any time im over 2000 rpm it will run so when i let off say after a pass, it will still run even though im at 0% throttle untill it goes under 2k rpm
so i have the throttle position switch wired between hot and the on switc so any time i press the gas it comes on.
so here are the pics, at the bottom of this section.. you will see the layout, the throttle switch and wires, the filter, the inlet toward the pump, and then some crappy shots of the pump, inlet and outlet tubes, the relay and some of the simple wiring..
i need someone to email me to host the vid please.. its 1.3meg and it shows me activating the pump etc. so email me, i think its pretty cool!
the pictures
#2
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this is the exact setup im running and works great! tim98ta on the board helped me out with htis. no oil in the intake and not even at the end of the tube where it goes out to apmosphere!
#4
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<img border="0" title="" alt="[Mad]" src="gr_images/icons/mad.gif" /> This sounds almost exactly like what I had. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Mad]" src="gr_images/icons/mad.gif" /> Except mine kept blowing fuses; and then I didn't hear it running anymore. So I just touched the power wire to the + battery terminal and nothing happened. I disassembled the AIR pump and the electric motor was totally fried. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Confused]" src="images/icons/confused.gif" /> Oh well, I have another AIR pump on the way so we will see what happens this time. I wish I knew what I did wrong last time. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Embarrassed]" src="gr_emb.gif" />
#6
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Yeah, like we discussed before; I had the stock air inlet from the throttle body still in use. I must have fucked up the wiring somewhere <img border="0" alt="[Banging Head]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_banghead.gif" /> . Oh well. Hey MightyMouse; was that relay a 5 post or a 4 post?
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#8
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Hmmm. Now THAT may be the problem. I had a 4-post realy--12V in, 12V out, Ground, and on-off switch. Guess I need to try Radio Shcak again and get the 5-poster. <img border="0" alt="[chug]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_chug.gif" />
#13
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Mr. Gasket has a new Electric Vacuum Pump. Saw it in the March Car Craft. Says it can pull up to 18 in-Hg. Wonder how much $$$ that is gonna cost? I bet the wiring would not be any harder. I like the window switch idea also. <img border="0" alt="[cheers]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_cheers.gif" />
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is the airpump basically running in reverse of how it works for its original purpose? It "sucks" from the valvecover instead of blowing air out to the exhaust?
#16
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not really, in stock form the air pump pulls air from the outside air and pushes it into the exhaust
now im pulling air from the crankcase, and pushing it to outside air
it runs at wide open of course, wheater or not it can overcome my blow by from these loose rings has not been measured.
it really does move a good amount of air.
now im pulling air from the crankcase, and pushing it to outside air
it runs at wide open of course, wheater or not it can overcome my blow by from these loose rings has not been measured.
it really does move a good amount of air.
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I need pics to do the setup on my 02 z28 can I get some sent to codeblue46970@yahoo.com I can't open pics on post for some reason
ok here it is, i've had this setup on my car for a month now and no more oil in the intake, i still use oil but nick at are says that its because of the ring setup for the turbo kit on the way.
this can only be done if you are not using your factory air pump currently and have most of the tubing, i couldnt find my bracket but it would work as good in that as tie strapped up like i have mine
anyways it uses the factory air pump in factory location with only factory tubing.
the entire factory pcv setup is capped off exept for 2 spots
passenger valvecover middle: i have one pep boys ricer breather($7) to allow a small amount of fresh air in.
driver firewall end valvecover: one end of the main airpump hose over the entire port up to the wide portion and screwclamped into place... this runs down and along the brake lines up to where the fender hole is where the airpump is located.
once there run it to the big hose (may need more than one piece) down the hole into that open space, and run it into the big port on the airpump. on the small side, screw clamp on one of the short peices of hose to let it point down towards the ground for the discharge
wiring: run a positive wire from the big red terminal directly above down to the +12v in of a 30 amp automotive relay ($6)
at this time find the wires that used to go to the air pump. cut before the plug so that you have bare wire exposed from the airpump and from the wiring harness.. on the pump side, twist the 2 red wires together and put a spade connector on it. same for the single black wire. put these on the 12v and ground out of the relay
on the harness side, tape off the 2 red wires to insulate and then run the black wire to the ground side of the relay with a spade connector.
last thing to do is run a 'on' wire to it.. can be done a few ways, you can have it on when the car is running, in this case have it hooked into an accesory in the fuse box, i have it hooked to a throttle position microswitch ($2) so when i am anything much over idle it comes on. but i ordered a window switch from harlan which will be here soon and installed so that any time im over 2000 rpm it will run so when i let off say after a pass, it will still run even though im at 0% throttle untill it goes under 2k rpm
so i have the throttle position switch wired between hot and the on switc so any time i press the gas it comes on.
so here are the pics, at the bottom of this section.. you will see the layout, the throttle switch and wires, the filter, the inlet toward the pump, and then some crappy shots of the pump, inlet and outlet tubes, the relay and some of the simple wiring..
i need someone to email me to host the vid please.. its 1.3meg and it shows me activating the pump etc. so email me, i think its pretty cool!
the pictures
this can only be done if you are not using your factory air pump currently and have most of the tubing, i couldnt find my bracket but it would work as good in that as tie strapped up like i have mine
anyways it uses the factory air pump in factory location with only factory tubing.
the entire factory pcv setup is capped off exept for 2 spots
passenger valvecover middle: i have one pep boys ricer breather($7) to allow a small amount of fresh air in.
driver firewall end valvecover: one end of the main airpump hose over the entire port up to the wide portion and screwclamped into place... this runs down and along the brake lines up to where the fender hole is where the airpump is located.
once there run it to the big hose (may need more than one piece) down the hole into that open space, and run it into the big port on the airpump. on the small side, screw clamp on one of the short peices of hose to let it point down towards the ground for the discharge
wiring: run a positive wire from the big red terminal directly above down to the +12v in of a 30 amp automotive relay ($6)
at this time find the wires that used to go to the air pump. cut before the plug so that you have bare wire exposed from the airpump and from the wiring harness.. on the pump side, twist the 2 red wires together and put a spade connector on it. same for the single black wire. put these on the 12v and ground out of the relay
on the harness side, tape off the 2 red wires to insulate and then run the black wire to the ground side of the relay with a spade connector.
last thing to do is run a 'on' wire to it.. can be done a few ways, you can have it on when the car is running, in this case have it hooked into an accesory in the fuse box, i have it hooked to a throttle position microswitch ($2) so when i am anything much over idle it comes on. but i ordered a window switch from harlan which will be here soon and installed so that any time im over 2000 rpm it will run so when i let off say after a pass, it will still run even though im at 0% throttle untill it goes under 2k rpm
so i have the throttle position switch wired between hot and the on switc so any time i press the gas it comes on.
so here are the pics, at the bottom of this section.. you will see the layout, the throttle switch and wires, the filter, the inlet toward the pump, and then some crappy shots of the pump, inlet and outlet tubes, the relay and some of the simple wiring..
i need someone to email me to host the vid please.. its 1.3meg and it shows me activating the pump etc. so email me, i think its pretty cool!
the pictures