ZLICIOUS98

OK guys...how do you get plug 8 out? I can get my hand back there to pull the plug wire, but I can never get a ratchet on it, either std or flex. I've removed the EGR stuff, and I do not want to disconnect the A/C hardware. I even tried from the bottom, but jackstands are pretty much in the way...not to mention that I'm not crazy being under the car in that precarious position! I'm headed out to the track next week to test out the new Hookers and Cam, but I'd like to run on 8 new plugs rather than 7. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
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11 Bravo

iTrader: (3)

You can try to get a small, stubby ratchet on it. Sucks, don't it?

TA_2001

I get to it from underneath no problem.
I always have a jack stand under there with
me to assure myself of being safe

StevieZ

iTrader: (3)

On a 98 it is easiest if you pop the valve cover off and use a swivel adapter on the rachet.

cantdrv65

iTrader: (3)

Get headers. It is much easier with headers I get to mine from the bottom.

GeorgeC

I would always remove the coilpack for #6, then get to the plug with a 1/2" drive spark plug socket, a 3/8" to 1/2" adapter (basically a very short extension), and a 3/8" drive ratchet. Worked like a champ.

It's now a totally different game with the way the car is set up. Very easy to change all eight plugs in about 15 minutes or less (on a hot engine).

ZLICIOUS98

cantdrv65...I do have headers (Hooker-ceramic coated), but I don't see this making life any easier at all!!

GeorgeC...I've tried a variation of your theme, only in reverse...(I used a 3/8" socket w/ 3/8 to 1/2" adapter and then used a 1/2" drive ratchet...still not enough room to turn the ratchet with the header tubes.

white z...I'm with you on not being excited about getting squashed by the car...I'm not the most slender guy in the world...far from it. I thought about removing the front wheel, but that doesn't really help either.

I guess I'll try "11 Bravo 's" solution of a short stubby ratchet, along with "white z's" suggestion of jacking up the car, hopefully between the two...I will be successful.

Wish me luck "George C" that I don't burn all of the hair as well as flesh from my arms! Let me know if anyone else has any brilliant ideas. TIA

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BillWS6Formula

What works best for me is to remove the last two coil packs (#6 and #8) on that side and use a swivel short handled rachet, with the swivel taped up to limit it's movement. Patience and small hands are a help too <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" /> . But really it's not too bad with those two coil packs removed - you will still be doing it all by feel though, don't expect to see what you're actually at *L*.

12secSS

iTrader: (30)

I have Hooker LTs, and it's a cake walk (even with the stock manifolds, but from the bottom). Here's what to do:
Remove the air injection hose/check valve
Remove the EGR stuff (I don't have this)
Remove the coil packs (five 10MM bolts, last one is interesting, need a slender arm with a wrench)
Disconnect Coil Pack harness plug
Remove spark plug wires
From the top, use a 3/8" ratchet and a 5/8" socket (for spark plugs)

It's that easy, that is what I do and I have it out in 2-3 minutes. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" />

NoOne

As someone else said, remove the valve cover. Its much easier than removing the coil pack.

Just unattach the PCV, the main coil pack connector in the center and the bolts, just pop it off. All the coil packs and wiring comes with it.

Break loose the plug with your wratchet, just loosen it.

Then use a 5/8's ID rubber hose it fit over the plug and unscrew it with a nice long rubber hose.

Then put the new plug on the rubber hose and use the hose to reinstall it, then tighten it with the wratchet.

Nothing is harder to change than the plugs on the Incon kit since the manifold covers the plug hole and then was machined out so I have an extra 1/2 inch or so of material to go through than everyone else.

I can do the whole thing in 45 minutes now.

<small>[ September 03, 2002, 07:19 PM: Message edited by: NoOne ]</small>

98TAauto

iTrader: (2)

man i love being skinny in these cases <img border="0" title="" alt="[Big Grin]" src="gr_grin.gif" />

a swivel and lots of extensions usually work pretty well. Im changing mine right now and ive done all but 8 tonight. Ill get there tomorrow cause my hands are cussing me out right now <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" />

but the best way is just to take off the last 2 coil packs on that side and then you have some space to work with. With my SLP's its not hard at all <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" />

with the valve covers off its childs play, but im not taking them off just for the plug.

best of luck and just walk away and get your mind off of it if you still cant get it out. Also, try sitting on the engine and reaching down there.

but with my small hands and the right tools i can get it out without taking the coil packs off. Pays off being a farmer and having TONS of tools <img border="0" alt="[chug]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_chug.gif" />

numbZ

Go from the bottom with a stubby ext. on your ratchet.If you're paranoid about getting smashed by your car(like I am),jack the car up,put ramps under the wheels,and use jackstands just in case.The car will not move with all that supporting it.I also found it easier to remove the wire from the bottom with a prybar.Place the prybar at the base of the boot at the head and gently twist.POP,comes right off.

ZLICIOUS98

Well...an update! I took the advice of removing the coil packs 6 & 8 and it made it somewhat bearable. I went out and bought a stubby ratchet and I was able to feel my way onto the plug...but wouldn't you know it...it was frozen. I finally used one of my boys' Hockey sticks to put some leverage on the ratchet and it finally popped loose. I've got a few cuts here and there on my hands for show...sucks.

Unfortunately...this morning on my way to work, I must have thrown a code and the check engine light comes on. The engine was running a little rough, but I didn't worry about it since with the cam, it's lopey anyway. But then the Check Engine light begins flashing whenever I would accelerate on the highway. Whenever I slowed down it would stop flashing, once I accelerated again, it would begin flashing again. What's up???? Did I not get #8 plug wire on good enough? Any ideas? I've forgotten what it means when the "Check Engine" light flashes...please help!!
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