bolton98TA

iTrader: (3)

i think im about to go insain....on the drivers side mount i cant seem to get the back top bolt started for nothing, the holes are ligned up and the thing dont want to go in!! also, where does evoryone pry on the engin to get the pedistal and mount holes to line up? or would it be possible to loosen the pedistal and do it that way?
one more thing, my car seems to have ate one of the mount to block bolts, i looked 2 hrs for it and never found it. does anyone know where i could find one?

thanks, Ryan

P Mack

iTrader: (6)

The bolt that won't go in, is that the bolt that holds the clamshell together or the one that bolts the mount to the block? If you've already tightened the other three before getting that one started i'd loosen the other three and try to tighten them evenly.

To get pedestal and mount holes to line up i loosed the four pedestal bolts. It worked great.

bolton98TA

iTrader: (3)

its the one that holds the mount to the block, ive only got 2 in soo far, the top front and back bottom. i lost the other bolt and i have one left. if there is a trick to getting that back top bolt in let me know, i need as much help as i can get!

also, what is the easiest way to get the 4 pedistal bolts loose? and what size are they?

TheBlurLS1

iTrader: (8)

Unbolt the tranny mount from the crossmember, you should be able to move **** around a little bit better then.

Look between the steering rack and the k-member for lost bolts. Mine always seem to end up there. There's also numerous holes in the k-member that grab stuff too.

I used about 5 extensions and a swivel, fished the extensions through from the bottom, then put on the swivel with the socket on it, and the bolt in the socket. Then i aimed it at the hole and started turning and pushed.

P Mack

iTrader: (6)

Maybe you just need to do that hard bolt first. I think I used an air ratchet to loosen the pedestal bolts, but then again, i had my k-member/engine/transmission out of the car since I was doing my shortblock swap. I don't remember what size, maybe 15 or 18 mm.

bolton98TA

iTrader: (3)

i tried doing that bolt first and it stillw ont go in.

99ssleeper

iTrader: (98)

I had one that was a little tougher to go in. The problem was the angle...I couldnt see it well enough and didnt have a good feel for how it was positioned. After a few minutes I got it. Sorry, no real tips here...but if the other 2 went in, that one has to be lined up. Try taking the other threaded end of the bolt and feeling around the bolt hole to see if it's lined up right....other than that, all I can say is good luck!

bolton98TA

iTrader: (3)

i think thats the problem, i just cant seem to get the angle rite.
does anyone have any tips on takeing the pedistal loose?

MeentSS02

iTrader: (11)

Yeah...don't take the bolts all the way out. They still need to be threaded in, but not much. Do the same with the clamshell -> block bolts. Then start messing with the motor by jacking it around and shoving a screwdriver in the through bolt hole to get everything lined up. Then tighten everything down.

Worked for me...PITA though.

REDWS6ROCKET

iTrader: (4)

i had a hell of time on the drivers side of mine, and i was down to only a shortblock with no trans in. we ended up loosening the lower mount to get it to go. they were not fun, but i can tell a huge difference now.

MeentSS02

iTrader: (11)

Yeah...they make a big difference. I actually ended up cross-threading one of my pedatal -> k-member bolts on the driver's side, but I was able to get it all the way tight without it breaking. Ain't messing with it, that's for sure. I was pissed though.

bolton98TA

iTrader: (3)

i got it............ ligning that big bolt hole up was a job but i got it by my self and a prybar. probobly only lost about a pint of blood from busted knuckles.... no biggie lol

thanks for the help guys!
ryan

MeentSS02

iTrader: (11)

Now...the big question. I did poly mounts on both sides of the engine. How hard would a heads/cam install be compared to this bitch of a project?

Viper

iTrader: (6)

Heads and cam is mostly taking your time. That and strecthing your back from leaning over so much. Most guys can stand where the radiator was once it's out and that helps. The good news with H/C is there's no having to line up bolts like with the poly's. The worst (IMO) is getting the bolts back on the back of the heads and the connections to the intake. It's a tight fit under that cowl, but you can push the plastic clips that hold it in out of the way so you don't destroy your knuckles. And buy mechanics gloves, it only takes a little while to get used to wrenching with them on. The other PITA is the power steering pump, it's just slow tedious work putting it on and taking it off the old heads.

GuitsBoy

iTrader: (4)

Not as frustrating, but WAY MORE WORK! So worth it though! For a first time customer, allow 3 to 4 days. I can get it done in a weekend now, but ive had a lot of practice

Derek_02

iTrader: (8)

Im about to do my poly mounts and LT's this weekend. Ho wbig of a pain in the *** are the mounts when the the manifolds or headers are out?

Derek

MeentSS02

iTrader: (11)

Take it from me...I did one side with the headers still in, and one side with them out. MUCH easier with the headers out of the way. Don't let that fool you though...it'll take a lot of time regardless.

bolton98TA

iTrader: (3)

but its def. worth it, my car rides better than it did when i first got it, no more viberations or rattling!!! i love it!

ryan