poly motor mount people, come in!!!
poly motor mount people, come in!!! i think im about to go insain....on the drivers side mount i cant seem to get the back top bolt started for nothing, the holes are ligned up and the thing dont want to go in!! also, where does evoryone pry on the engin to get the pedistal and mount holes to line up? or would it be possible to loosen the pedistal and do it that way?
one more thing, my car seems to have ate one of the mount to block bolts, i looked 2 hrs for it and never found it. does anyone know where i could find one?
thanks, Ryan
one more thing, my car seems to have ate one of the mount to block bolts, i looked 2 hrs for it and never found it. does anyone know where i could find one?
thanks, Ryan
The bolt that won't go in, is that the bolt that holds the clamshell together or the one that bolts the mount to the block? If you've already tightened the other three before getting that one started i'd loosen the other three and try to tighten them evenly.
To get pedestal and mount holes to line up i loosed the four pedestal bolts. It worked great.
To get pedestal and mount holes to line up i loosed the four pedestal bolts. It worked great.
its the one that holds the mount to the block, ive only got 2 in soo far, the top front and back bottom. i lost the other bolt and i have one left. if there is a trick to getting that back top bolt in let me know, i need as much help as i can get!
also, what is the easiest way to get the 4 pedistal bolts loose? and what size are they?
also, what is the easiest way to get the 4 pedistal bolts loose? and what size are they?
Unbolt the tranny mount from the crossmember, you should be able to move **** around a little bit better then.
Look between the steering rack and the k-member for lost bolts. Mine always seem to end up there. There's also numerous holes in the k-member that grab stuff too.
I used about 5 extensions and a swivel, fished the extensions through from the bottom, then put on the swivel with the socket on it, and the bolt in the socket. Then i aimed it at the hole and started turning and pushed.
Look between the steering rack and the k-member for lost bolts. Mine always seem to end up there. There's also numerous holes in the k-member that grab stuff too.
I used about 5 extensions and a swivel, fished the extensions through from the bottom, then put on the swivel with the socket on it, and the bolt in the socket. Then i aimed it at the hole and started turning and pushed.
Maybe you just need to do that hard bolt first. I think I used an air ratchet to loosen the pedestal bolts, but then again, i had my k-member/engine/transmission out of the car since I was doing my shortblock swap. I don't remember what size, maybe 15 or 18 mm.
I had one that was a little tougher to go in. The problem was the angle...I couldnt see it well enough and didnt have a good feel for how it was positioned. After a few minutes I got it. Sorry, no real tips here...but if the other 2 went in, that one has to be lined up. Try taking the other threaded end of the bolt and feeling around the bolt hole to see if it's lined up right....other than that, all I can say is good luck!
Trending Topics
LS1 Tech Stories
The Best V8 Stories One Small Block at Time
6 Common C5 Corvette Failures and What's Involved In Repairing Them
Pouria Savadkouei
Retro Modern Bandit Pontiac Trans AM Comes With Burt Reynolds' Autograph
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Greatest Cadillac V Series Performance Models Ever, Ranked
Pouria Savadkouei
Top 10 Most Powerful Chevy Trucks Ever Made!
Hennessey's New Supercharged Silverado ZR2 Has 700 HP
Verdad Gallardo
Coachbuilt N2A Anteros Is an LS2-Powered C6 Corvette In Italian Clothes
Verdad Gallardo
Awesome K5 Blazer Restomod Comes With C7 Corvette Power
Verdad Gallardo
10 Camaros You Should Never Buy
10 LS Engine Myths That Refuse to Die
Verdad Gallardo
Yeah...don't take the bolts all the way out. They still need to be threaded in, but not much. Do the same with the clamshell -> block bolts. Then start messing with the motor by jacking it around and shoving a screwdriver in the through bolt hole to get everything lined up. Then tighten everything down.
Worked for me...PITA though.
Worked for me...PITA though.
i had a hell of time on the drivers side of mine, and i was down to only a shortblock with no trans in. we ended up loosening the lower mount to get it to go. they were not fun, but i can tell a huge difference now.
Yeah...they make a big difference. I actually ended up cross-threading one of my pedatal -> k-member bolts on the driver's side, but I was able to get it all the way tight without it breaking. Ain't messing with it, that's for sure. I was pissed though.
i got it............ ligning that big bolt hole up was a job but i got it by my self and a prybar. probobly only lost about a pint of blood from busted knuckles.... no biggie lol
thanks for the help guys!
ryan
thanks for the help guys!
ryan
Heads and cam is mostly taking your time. That and strecthing your back from leaning over so much. Most guys can stand where the radiator was once it's out and that helps. The good news with H/C is there's no having to line up bolts like with the poly's. The worst (IMO) is getting the bolts back on the back of the heads and the connections to the intake. It's a tight fit under that cowl, but you can push the plastic clips that hold it in out of the way so you don't destroy your knuckles. And buy mechanics gloves, it only takes a little while to get used to wrenching with them on. The other PITA is the power steering pump, it's just slow tedious work putting it on and taking it off the old heads.
Originally Posted by MeentSS02
Now...the big question. I did poly mounts on both sides of the engine. How hard would a heads/cam install be compared to this bitch of a project?
Originally Posted by Derek_02
Im about to do my poly mounts and LT's this weekend. Ho wbig of a pain in the *** are the mounts when the the manifolds or headers are out?
Derek
Derek