Steering column clearance with QTP longtubes
Thread Starter
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 4,578
Likes: 49
From: Kissimmee, FL
They changed the way they were manufactured which is when they dropped the price. TTP helped me out but for the complete price I could have gotten the Kooks. 
Oh well live and learn.
Oh well live and learn. 
TECH Resident
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 762
Likes: 0
My QTP headers when in like a glove so its not a common problem. I blame the so called specialist shop that installed them. If they where that off they should not have let you left in the first place. They just did not sell you the headers they so it cost you more. And if it was 1/2" off you would not be able to install the headers let alone turn the steering wheel. And if the header actually had a problem, why didnt you contact QTP. Just the way i see it.
QTP's arent the only ones that hit the Steering arm. My headers have been laying against. Now I seen NoMoreLS1's post about loosening the steering column I have to give it a try. I can deal with the floorboard banging but not the fact the tube is laying on the header.
I have NEVER heard nor read of something like this (or ANY clearance issues for that matter) ever happening with the awesome QTP long tubes.
My QTPs not only slid right in during install but fit like a glove with full clearance of all accessories/frame areas and easy spark plug access as well.
My QTPs not only slid right in during install but fit like a glove with full clearance of all accessories/frame areas and easy spark plug access as well.
Originally Posted by CAT3
QTP's arent the only ones that hit the Steering arm. My headers have been laying against. Now I seen NoMoreLS1's post about loosening the steering column I have to give it a try. I can deal with the floorboard banging but not the fact the tube is laying on the header.
To stop the floor board banging, use a pry bar to pull down on the header. Place the pry bar between the collector and the frame rail and pull down to get the added clearance that you need. I would suggest placing a rubber hose over the pry bar so that you don't scratch the header, especially a ceramic coated header (a small towel will work too). Make sure to check the header bolts after you pry down on the header. If you still get the banging, you can also replace the trans mount with a poly mount as there is a lot of play with the stock rubber trans mount and under hard acceleration, the y-pipe will bang. Keep in mind that the poly mount is a tad taller, so you might have to pull down on the header again.
My tips are tried and true and will work.
Last edited by NoMoreLS1; May 4, 2006 at 09:24 AM.
I called qtp they say the header bolt holes are oversized so we can just loosen them and lift the headers and retighten and then it will be money...my shop should be trying that today....but i dont think you will get that much movement up or back and forward out of them to completely clear all the time
but i dont know so we will see
but i dont know so we will see
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Maybe you can get a couple shop guys to help pull on it! 
Originally Posted by LS1LT1
I have NEVER heard nor read of something like this (or ANY clearance issues for that matter) ever happening with the awesome QTP long tubes.
Check out the sponsors feedback section and you'll find ALOT of unhappy QTP coustomers complaining of poor fitment on their latest batch of OTP headers...seems like with a price reduction also comes a quality reduction
https://ls1tech.com/forums/ls1tech-sponsor-feedback/500919-trouble-qtp-longtubes.html
Staging Lane
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 98
Likes: 0
From: Rancho Cucamonga, CA
Originally Posted by Roarin_8
They tried that, too bad I didn't get the picture. 
Here's how the clearance looks now.
A whole lot better than before.
Here's how the clearance looks now. A whole lot better than before.
Originally Posted by NoMoreLS1
Another tip...
To stop the floor board banging, use a pry bar to pull down on the header. Place the pry bar between the collector and the frame rail and pull down to get the added clearance that you need. I would suggest placing a rubber hose over the pry bar so that you don't scratch the header, especially a ceramic coated header (a small towel will work too). Make sure to check the header bolts after you pry down on the header. If you still get the banging, you can also replace the trans mount with a poly mount as there is a lot of play with the stock rubber trans mount and under hard acceleration, the y-pipe will bang. Keep in mind that the poly mount is a tad taller, so you might have to pull down on the header again.
My tips are tried and true and will work.
To stop the floor board banging, use a pry bar to pull down on the header. Place the pry bar between the collector and the frame rail and pull down to get the added clearance that you need. I would suggest placing a rubber hose over the pry bar so that you don't scratch the header, especially a ceramic coated header (a small towel will work too). Make sure to check the header bolts after you pry down on the header. If you still get the banging, you can also replace the trans mount with a poly mount as there is a lot of play with the stock rubber trans mount and under hard acceleration, the y-pipe will bang. Keep in mind that the poly mount is a tad taller, so you might have to pull down on the header again.
My tips are tried and true and will work.
I dont doubt your technique works for most applications....however, not on mine. Trust me. Once the header was in the drivers side, I had to "massage" the stock Member (now running a modified tubular so no issue there), the floor pan and under seat bracing of the floorpan just to get the header enough room to bolt up. When I say it was resting on the floor, I mean it was literally pressed up against the floor. Just the same as the primary tube is laying, with force on the steering arm. I didnt know the ***** could be slide side to side, so I ended up pulling the arm, grinding it down some at the joint, which relieved a lot of pressure, but its still some there. I tried the pry bar, and unless I am missing something...no go. I thought about torching the tubes and then prying. I have a new set of Vic Jr's Race Headers sitting at the house, once I get the Y I plan on installing them. I still want to adjust the steering arm though, just to see how much clearance I can get out of it. I need to get some recent pics. Passenger side of the Kooks is good. Y Pipe also forced the I Pipe into the trans tunnel, resulting in a burnt paint mark on the trans tunnel under the carpet. Oh well.
12 Second Club
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 207
Likes: 0
From: NJ
Of course, just as I'm ready to order my QTPs, threads like this one show up. I had my heart set on the QTPs and now I'm not so sure. Hopefully somone from QTP will get back to us and explain whats going on with the fitment issues because I am about 2 seconds away from ordering coated Pacesetters from TSP. 
Teching In
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 5
Likes: 0
From: Tx
Originally Posted by NoMoreLS1
Guys... just loosen the steering column from underneath the dash. There are 3 or 4 bolts that hold it to the firewall and there is no need to completely remove the bolts. Then have someone use a pry bar to push the steering shaft away from the header. While that person is holding the steering shaft away from the header, go back underneath the dash and re-tighten the steering column bolts. Takes less then 5 minutes. This way you are actually moving the steering shaft away from the header.
Now my shoulders can get some rest!
Originally Posted by WS6gunner
Thanks for this. Was having the same problem, but not as bad. This was just enough to give me the clearance I needed Now my shoulders can get some rest!
Now my shoulders can get some rest! Glad that this solution worked for ya. 
Originally Posted by WS6gunner
Thanks for this. Was having the same problem, but not as bad. This was just enough to give me the clearance I needed Now my shoulders can get some rest!
Now my shoulders can get some rest!