Hannibal

I have to remove my ASP pulleys (both alternator and crank) due to taking the car back to the dealer.

My question is: I know ASP supplied me with a new crank bolt which I used in installing the pulleys - but now that those are coming off, can I reuse the stock bolt that I pulled with the stock pulleys (I kept it all) or do I need to order a new one.

And once I get the car back and put the ASP's back on - can I reuse the bolt that came with the ASP's (on the car now) or do I need to reorder a new one?

Anyone know a part number by chance?

Thanks.

Dane 98 Bird

I just went through the same situation as you. NO, you need to get a new bolt each time you put a pulley back on. You can use the old bolt to snug the pulley down and then use the new bolt and torque it down. As far as part number just call you local dealership's part's counter and ask for the harmonic balancer bolt part #.
Good luck!
Dane

DriveATransAm

i would say its ok to reuse the one for warranty work, but then pick up another bolt when you are at the dealer when you put the asp on. its only like 2 bucks.

02SilverWS6

Why is it necessary to buy a new bolt?

CashDudeHomie

iTrader: (5)

The main reason is the bolt comes coated on the head where it holds the pulley from slipping. When you pull the old bolt out you can see the orange coating.

JAY4SPEED

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by 02SilverWS6:
<strong>Why is it necessary to buy a new bolt?</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">The crank bolt IS a torque to yield bolt same as what comes on the cylinder heads from the factory. The bolt is designed to have a certain amount of "stretch" as you tighten it to retain pressure on the balancer. Think of it as sort of a rubber band, a really really strong rubber band. If you reuse a crank balancer bolt retightening it will stretch it beyond what its designed to stretch and possibly to the point of failure. This is why the old bolt is used to initally tighten the crank balancer then install a new bolt to specs so that you don't stretch the new bolt beyond its limits.

Jay

<small>[ November 12, 2002, 01:48 AM: Message edited by: JAY4SPEED ]</small>

eallanboggs

iTrader: (1)

You don't need to remove the ASP pulleys everytime you take your vehicle in for service. Are you going to remove all you bolt-on stuff everytime you need to go in for work? I don't think so. Besides, do you think the mechanic is going to get under you vehicle to check for an underdrive pulley. If he does that then he's going to see your headers and spot your O2 Simms that you need since you got rid of your cats. That's too much work everytime you go to the dealer. Stop being so paranoid. I you do decide to go thru all that trouble you might just as well buy an aftermarket bolt that is a LONGER bolt instead of the factory bolt. The factory bolt is 16X2X103mm. I found one that was 120mm long at a local hardware store in Harvey, La that supplies thousands of fasteners for the marine industry. The bolt I got is stainless and didn't cost any more than the factory fastener. This gave me almost 17mm of extra thread bite when installing the ASP pulley onto the crank. You must allow for a big flat washer on the shank of the aftermarket bolt. The factory bolt has that built in flat washer on the bolt hex head which most bolts don't come with. The extra length of the 120mm bolt comes in handy if you don't have the special factory tool that is used to start pushing the harmonic balancer onto the crank snout. I don't know anyone that has one of those special factory tools, but if your careful to start the ASP pulley on straight and square the extra long bolt will sure help get the pulley started without having to worry whether or not you have sufficient purchase with the bolt when you first start to torque down on the fastener. I was concerned that I might strip the bolt threads or worse yet the threads inside the crank while starting the ASP pulley onto the crank snout. That's why I went with the extra long bolt. I got a chain wrench to keep the pulley from turning while loosening the tightening the bolts. The factory pulley is about 7 1/2" dia so be sure the chain is long enough if you use that type of wrench to keep it from turning.

02SilverWS6

Thanks to all that answered my question!

Good luck in racing your cars!

Hannibal

Actually Eallanboggs - I posted several weeks back about some engine damage that had occured. After digging into it, it has become apparent that is it one or more of several things - blown head gasket, damaged piston or damaged ring. Even lately we are leaning towards a cracked block.

So it is VERY necessary IMO to remove everything and return the car to stock condition as I dont want to give the dealer ANY reason to balk at the repair.

Now while I and really any fairly knowledgeable person knows that the modifications done to my car wouldnt cause this kind of damage - this is the same dealership that tried to reject my claim of a damaged clutch cause I had aftermarket Billet "SS" pedals with screws that protruded through the back of them which were APPARENTLY cathcing on my floor mat thus causing the clutch pedal to stay depressed.

So with something as serious/expensive as this - I am not taking ANY chances.