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Old May 9, 2006 | 03:36 PM
  #41  
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Originally Posted by gillbot
I need to check the collectors but these are MAC headers so they fit together a bit different.

On the wife's car, the AIR was removed so that is not the problem. I'm hoping it is at the collector since that would be the easiest fix. I just can't find it since the car isn't being driven until it gets tuned, so I really can't look for carbon yet.
The airpump check-valve related problem was mentioned to be related to MAC headers, but since air has been removed... have you checked the delete plates? (if applicible?)
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Old May 9, 2006 | 04:12 PM
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i think its near my collecter as well but still have that tick
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Old May 9, 2006 | 04:28 PM
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I see no carbon around the plates, one thing I haven't thought of though is the EGR tube where it goes into the collector. That weld may have broken due to vibrations. I have a few things to check, I'll report back IF i find it!
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Old May 11, 2006 | 10:43 PM
  #44  
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I am getting carbon deposits near the flanges, gonna have it welded straight thru tommarow I will let you know if that fixes it!
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Old May 11, 2006 | 10:48 PM
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Originally Posted by dnm12
I am getting carbon deposits near the flanges, gonna have it welded straight thru tommarow I will let you know if that fixes it!
Good luck getting it off later!

I replaced my plugs and wires yesterday being very carefull, and it seemed to help a bit, even though it's probably in my head. I used new NGK tr-55's and OEM LS2 plug wires.
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Old May 12, 2006 | 11:57 AM
  #46  
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its called cutting, that is, how you get it off later...how often do you take you exhaust off?
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Old May 12, 2006 | 02:54 PM
  #47  
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Originally Posted by dnm12
its called cutting, that is, how you get it off later...how often do you take you exhaust off?
Not too too often, but I have done it a few times. I like the idea of a fully welded system, with 3-bolt flanges at the collectors.
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Old May 12, 2006 | 07:56 PM
  #48  
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The wife's car is at the tuners getting setup for the cam. As soon as it gets back and I get some free time from work, I'm going to dig into it more. I will find the source of that tick if I gotta tear the whole thing apart.
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Old May 13, 2006 | 03:54 PM
  #49  
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Well, I officially give up. Header bolts are tight, collector bolts are tight, plugs are tight and I see NO carbon and can find NO leak. Must be internal.
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Old May 13, 2006 | 10:39 PM
  #50  
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I just did a H/C swap on my Formula and I think I have the same tick that you're describing

I'm hoping my lifters are ok (stock re-used).
I called Texas-Speed where I got the parts from and they said that if it sounds like it's coming from all over the motor it's probably valvetrain noise that you'll just have to deal with. If it was a "tick" that was coming from a specific point then it could be a loose rocker or a bad lifter. Since it has that general "sewing machine" sound....there's nothing you can do about it.

They said they've tried solving the problems with cars that have gone through the shop with different length pushrods and it's not helped.

I sure hope it gets better though.....not a big fan of how loud it's ticking.

Other H/C cams I've heard were not as loud
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Old May 13, 2006 | 10:48 PM
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Rockers are tight, I checked around all the Y pipe connections and header flanges and I can't find any black soot. Everything is tight on the exhaust and I cannot find a leak so I'm guessing it has to be a lifter. It's only noticeable on the drivers side near the rear of the motor.
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Old May 14, 2006 | 03:13 AM
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Mine doesn't tick anymore! Plugs/wires fixed it!

My tr-55's were gapped at .050, I opened them up to .055.
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Old May 14, 2006 | 07:57 AM
  #53  
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all you did was change the gap?
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Old May 14, 2006 | 12:14 PM
  #54  
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Originally Posted by TheBlurLS1
Mine doesn't tick anymore! Plugs/wires fixed it!

My tr-55's were gapped at .050, I opened them up to .055.
A plug gap being off by .005 wouldn't cause a tick. But I think a gap between a spark plug wire and it's connection or a faulty wire would. Congrats on the easy fix!
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Old May 14, 2006 | 01:18 PM
  #55  
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Mine ticks from the back drives side too with a stock Engine and Qtp Headers.
It ticked before and after so i thought nothing of it.
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Old May 14, 2006 | 01:52 PM
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Originally Posted by gillbot
all you did was change the gap?
Well the plugs and wires were brand new too. I was saying that I also changed the gap.
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Old May 14, 2006 | 09:21 PM
  #57  
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Originally Posted by TheBlurLS1
Well the plugs and wires were brand new too. I was saying that I also changed the gap.
Ahh!

Well, after a nice long highway trip, I see some carbon by the #3 and #5 primaries so I'm going pull the header off and check that. I hope that is the source of the leak!

I'm almost convinced it's a leak now also, after logging the car on the trip, the LFTF's are different for both banks which suggests an exhaust leak.
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Old May 15, 2006 | 03:09 AM
  #58  
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injectors????-- common prob on f.o.r.d
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Old May 15, 2006 | 07:20 AM
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Originally Posted by terry02
injectors????-- common prob on f.o.r.d
That was my next thought
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Old May 15, 2006 | 10:57 AM
  #60  
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Originally Posted by TheBlurLS1
Mine doesn't tick anymore! Plugs/wires fixed it!

My tr-55's were gapped at .050, I opened them up to .055.

Thats great to hear,man !! I plan on changing my plugs and wires this week as well. I hope this will cure my ticking sound as well. I do belive one of my wires are arching and causing the noise. I still have the stock wires on . They will be replaced with a set of Taylors wires and NGK TR-55's !!
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