SLP lid owners, heads up.
When I took the SLP lid off my recently departed SS, I noticed a wear mark under the neck where it had been hitting the radiator support. I wondered how that affected the lid to filter seal. So today I decided to check the seal as I installed it on my new ride.
I used white grease on the top edge of the paper filter rubber seal, then popped the lid on. Sure enough, there was absolutely no grease transferred to the lid all along the rear edge! So I used the wheel on my bench grinder to whack the spot on the neck (being carefull not to grind thru) with the wear mark, but there was still a gap with no seal on the rear edge:

That's because now the trailing edge of the bottom of the neck was hitting the radiator support:

Wouldn't do much good to grind neck there cause the hose clamp wouldn't conform to the ground out area anyway, figured clamp band would still push neck up. Thought about using some strip type foam insulation on lid, but didn't: 1. If I used it just along back, might not allow other areas to seal, if I used it all around might be too tough to clamp down the lid, hard enough as it is. If a piece of foam came off, guess where it goes.
So instead I just used duct tape on back edge of filter support to raise the back of the filter enough to seal against lid. Had to use a few layers, about 1/8", but it worked. Now I have peace of mind.

PS - I have an MTI clear lid though.
Back to the subject, do you think it's a problem to not use the metal hose clamp that goes around where the MAF plugs into the lid? I just couldn't see it doing that much to seal, as the MAF seems pretty tight in mine and how is that wimpy little band clamp going to seal the plastic lid any? I love aftermarket parts, they always fit so well.
Abe
Abe

Trending Topics

PS - I have an MTI clear lid though.
The Best V8 Stories One Small Block at Time
So now it is Lid > MAF > Tubing > TB, instead of, Lid > Tubing > MAF > TB.
Dont think there should be a problem with that.


