K&N and MAF question
K&N and MAF question is it worth it to clean and reuse a K&N air filter? I just cleaned mine for the first time today and I'm waiting on it to dry so I can re-oil it. Should I just buy another one or what??? Another question is I just bought an SLP MAF sensor on Ebay, and the seller didn't give me the wiring adapter or the hose adapter which i assume lets me put it on my Granatelli air lid. What should I do? Can you buy these things separately from SLP or does any of you have these lying around and would like to get rid of them???
cleaning and reusing it is the only benifit for having a K&N. i cleaned mine and its fine
as for SLP MAF... i think it was a waste of money, try to sell it on ebay and get your money back IMO
as for SLP MAF... i think it was a waste of money, try to sell it on ebay and get your money back IMO
Originally Posted by Cop Car
cleaning and reusing it is the only benifit for having a K&N. i cleaned mine and its fine
as for SLP MAF... i think it was a waste of money, try to sell it on ebay and get your money back IMO
as for SLP MAF... i think it was a waste of money, try to sell it on ebay and get your money back IMO
stock MAF flows enough air to support 800rwhp. its a good mod if you have a huge cam, heads, forged internals and forced induction, otherwise its just a waste of money.
i dont think anyone should ever buy a aftermarket MAF, when you have your car tuned you can have your MAF deleted and run a SD tune, its what i did
i dont think anyone should ever buy a aftermarket MAF, when you have your car tuned you can have your MAF deleted and run a SD tune, its what i did
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Originally Posted by Cop Car
stock MAF flows enough air to support 800rwhp. its a good mod if you have a huge cam, heads, forged internals and forced induction, otherwise its just a waste of money.
i dont think anyone should ever buy a aftermarket MAF, when you have your car tuned you can have your MAF deleted and run a SD tune, its what i did
i dont think anyone should ever buy a aftermarket MAF, when you have your car tuned you can have your MAF deleted and run a SD tune, its what i did
^^Yeah um, dont listen to him. Just keep the stock mass air flow sensor. If you ever want to get a dyno tune at a shop (about $400-500) they usually will only tune your car if you have the stock maf, because granatelli and slp have unreadable codes or some **** like that. forget the whole SD tune
If you are dead set on a better flowing MAF (85mm), go with the Z06 (LS6) MAF sensor. They list for about 147 on the GM websites. They are 85mm and wont give off any weird readings. In fact...I think thats what SLP uses to make their MAF sensors. Correct me if Im wrong. They just stick the SLP sticker on over the DELPHI logo.
You will however still need the adapter harness. Im sure you can track one fo those down...or do like mentioned above and find the pigtails in a yard and make one.
Im ditching my SLP unit for the ls6 unit due to a P0103 that will not go away. I tried cleaning my filter and all...I just think its junk. Plus my tuner suggestsed ditching it.
Justin
You will however still need the adapter harness. Im sure you can track one fo those down...or do like mentioned above and find the pigtails in a yard and make one.
Im ditching my SLP unit for the ls6 unit due to a P0103 that will not go away. I tried cleaning my filter and all...I just think its junk. Plus my tuner suggestsed ditching it.
Justin
TECH Addict
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 2,660
Likes: 14
From: England
I'm forced to agree with Cop Car here - WOW first time for everything 
But on this occasion they are correct.
k&n are expensive and junk. If you have one, then it's not doing any harm except to your wallet. OEM paper filters have been proven to supply enough airflow for 500bhp.
As for the MAF - yep total waste of money. Again a stock MAF is fine for well over 500rwhp. An no, it doesn not really affect flow, this is the funny thing with fluid dymanics. The air flow will increase in speed in a smaller area, but less area and high speed may well equal volume over time.
Aftermarket, MAF's make power by liying to the PCM which causes the car to run lean, thus a bit more HP. Tuning will acheive exactly the same result but under controlled conditions. Also if you mod your car a lying MAF will more likely hinder and run the risk of running too lean. So then you are forced to tune it, and in which cause it reverts to being a $200 mistake. No gain over a stock MAF. At 500rwhp you might see 3rwhp difference between a 75mm and a 85mm.
An SD Tune is speed density, you can physically remove the MAF or just disable it. It uses pre-defined MAP tables setup on a rolling road.
SD is good, but it then will ignore any future changes, forcing you to retune each and every time you change something. MAF's may be a PITA at times but they do have benfits and allow you to install nearly all the bolts and still have a car that runs well and safe without the need for a tune.
But on this occasion they are correct.k&n are expensive and junk. If you have one, then it's not doing any harm except to your wallet. OEM paper filters have been proven to supply enough airflow for 500bhp.
As for the MAF - yep total waste of money. Again a stock MAF is fine for well over 500rwhp. An no, it doesn not really affect flow, this is the funny thing with fluid dymanics. The air flow will increase in speed in a smaller area, but less area and high speed may well equal volume over time.
Aftermarket, MAF's make power by liying to the PCM which causes the car to run lean, thus a bit more HP. Tuning will acheive exactly the same result but under controlled conditions. Also if you mod your car a lying MAF will more likely hinder and run the risk of running too lean. So then you are forced to tune it, and in which cause it reverts to being a $200 mistake. No gain over a stock MAF. At 500rwhp you might see 3rwhp difference between a 75mm and a 85mm.
An SD Tune is speed density, you can physically remove the MAF or just disable it. It uses pre-defined MAP tables setup on a rolling road.
SD is good, but it then will ignore any future changes, forcing you to retune each and every time you change something. MAF's may be a PITA at times but they do have benfits and allow you to install nearly all the bolts and still have a car that runs well and safe without the need for a tune.
Get a paper filter...they're good for a decent amount of miles...cost 1/10th the amount and you jsut throw them away when your done. a k&n might make you money after 5 or 6 years with the same car and the same k&n. I mean a bottle fo oil to re oil those probably cost as much as a new paper air filter.
also, hypertech is garbage...you should research before you buy anything because you have purchased everything you shouldn't have. For the price of the hypertech adn slp maf, you could have gotten a real dyno tune which would have given you mroe power, safer and without any issues. Next your going to say that you bought 50 dollar resistor for the iat from slp.
also, hypertech is garbage...you should research before you buy anything because you have purchased everything you shouldn't have. For the price of the hypertech adn slp maf, you could have gotten a real dyno tune which would have given you mroe power, safer and without any issues. Next your going to say that you bought 50 dollar resistor for the iat from slp.
K&N filers are garbage, actually any oiles filter is garbage. The oil from them drips off and coates the MAF wires which causes it to gived fucked up readings which affect fueling. Just stick with a paper filter, there is no HP difference anyway.
If you look at the K&N flow results they used to advertise, it's
K&N in an aftermarket lid vs stock in stock. That's honest.
I flow tested lids once, and paper filters vs open (no K&N handy).
All but a nit was in the lid (silencer) and the filter means diddly.
People do pick up long term drift in the MAF from oil depositing.
Good hygeine pushes out the inevitable but it's going to come.
You can clean it. If you use an oiled filter, make it part of your
filter maintenance regimen.
SLP MAF comes with half of Fernco hose P/N 1059. It's an odd
one that isn't going to be found at Ace / Home Depot.
Your adaptor, go to Casper's --> or the junkyard if you feel
more like soldering it up, truck pigtail to your MAF and IAT
harness wires.
SLP MAF with the screen is going to flow worse than a
descreened stocker. Or a descreened truck piece or a
screenless Z06. But these all have still a pretty close
resemblance to known good -and available- MAF calibration
tables. Descreened truck MAF and truck table worked straight
up for me.
K&N in an aftermarket lid vs stock in stock. That's honest.
I flow tested lids once, and paper filters vs open (no K&N handy).
All but a nit was in the lid (silencer) and the filter means diddly.
People do pick up long term drift in the MAF from oil depositing.
Good hygeine pushes out the inevitable but it's going to come.
You can clean it. If you use an oiled filter, make it part of your
filter maintenance regimen.
SLP MAF comes with half of Fernco hose P/N 1059. It's an odd
one that isn't going to be found at Ace / Home Depot.
Your adaptor, go to Casper's --> or the junkyard if you feel
more like soldering it up, truck pigtail to your MAF and IAT
harness wires.
SLP MAF with the screen is going to flow worse than a
descreened stocker. Or a descreened truck piece or a
screenless Z06. But these all have still a pretty close
resemblance to known good -and available- MAF calibration
tables. Descreened truck MAF and truck table worked straight
up for me.
Originally Posted by BrandonDrecksage
Get a paper filter...they're good for a decent amount of miles...cost 1/10th the amount and you jsut throw them away when your done. a k&n might make you money after 5 or 6 years with the same car and the same k&n. I mean a bottle fo oil to re oil those probably cost as much as a new paper air filter.
also, hypertech is garbage...you should research before you buy anything because you have purchased everything you shouldn't have. For the price of the hypertech adn slp maf, you could have gotten a real dyno tune which would have given you mroe power, safer and without any issues. Next your going to say that you bought 50 dollar resistor for the iat from slp.
also, hypertech is garbage...you should research before you buy anything because you have purchased everything you shouldn't have. For the price of the hypertech adn slp maf, you could have gotten a real dyno tune which would have given you mroe power, safer and without any issues. Next your going to say that you bought 50 dollar resistor for the iat from slp.
LOL no actually i didnt get the resistor. i just dont know anywhere around me that does dyno tuning. I live in Lebanon, Va. and the closest that i know of "was" ride revolutions but i think that they closed down. if i did get the resistor it would give me at least 50 extra HP wouldnt it LOL!!! Just kidding!