Top end power loss after headers
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Teching In
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 21
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From: Albuquerque, NM
Top end power loss after headers 
Okay, so I recently installed some pacesetters lt's on my 99 TA. I got rid of the AIR and EGR did plugs and wires. I'm running with no cats a cut out after the 3in Y. I have a friend with an 04 Mach 1 and when we used to race from a 30 roll he would pull me by a bumber and once we hit about 60 I would walk right by him...Now after headers from a 30 roll I pull him by a bumper and it stays that way...no top end pull!!! Someone please tell me whats goin on?! I have a MAFT BTW...
sounds like your car needs a tune. Reason I say that is because you deleted AIR and EGR, and without getting the ecm tuned for that, usually it will make the gains less signifacant than expected. Even with just exhaust/mild intake mods its a very good idea to tune.
Last edited by Rob98LS1; Oct 13, 2006 at 12:47 PM.
Originally Posted by BlackTAWS6
Okay, so I recently installed some pacesetters lt's on my 99 TA. I got rid of the AIR and EGR did plugs and wires. I'm running with no cats a cut out after the 3in Y. I have a friend with an 04 Mach 1 and when we used to race from a 30 roll he would pull me by a bumber and once we hit about 60 I would walk right by him...Now after headers from a 30 roll I pull him by a bumper and it stays that way...no top end pull!!! Someone please tell me whats goin on?! I have a MAFT BTW...
Originally Posted by BrandonDrecksage
whats a maft? Did you change anything else? also..toher than racing your mach 1 friend..do you have any numbers. he could have gotten better at driving, you car can be running to rich or to lean on the top end killing power..you could have gotten crappier at driving...ect..to many varibles. i'd bring it to the strip and see how it does comapred to soem base numbers.
You should start by taking that MAFT off the car, then se how it runs. What may have happened is that since you installed the exhaust it might be too lean which may be causing knock retard, which will kill power. get rif of the MAFT first and go from there.
i would have to say that your running rich..... ( can you smell gas at all while your car is at idal).... that is what my car did after the LT install.... i would go with the edit tune or the SCT tuner if you know anyone that can read the graphs..... it will help you out with your top end but not fully.... thats just something you give with you go with LT but they help out your low end... and if your racing a stang thats what you need ...... do a few more mods with your top end and he wont stand a chance..... i have a friend with a mach as well 
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Originally Posted by 02blackta
i would have to say that your running rich..... ( can you smell gas at all while your car is at idal).... that is what my car did after the LT install.... i would go with the edit tune or the SCT tuner if you know anyone that can read the graphs..... it will help you out with your top end but not fully.... thats just something you give with you go with LT but they help out your low end... and if your racing a stang thats what you need ...... do a few more mods with your top end and he wont stand a chance..... i have a friend with a mach as well
YOUR CAR WILL NOT RUN RICH AT IDLE OR PARTIAL THROTTLE DRIVING AFTER A LONGTUBE INSTALL. I DONT CARE IF YOU THINK YOU SMELL FUEL AND IT IS RICH. 99.9% OF THE TIME THE FUEL SMELL IS BECAUSE WHEN YOU DO THE LT INSTALL YOU ARE ALSO INSTALLING AN ORY PIPE AT THE SAME TIME THUS ELIMENATING CATS. WHEN YOU DONT HAVE CATS YOU WILL SMELL FUEL, PERIOD. THE PCM WILL COMPENSATE FOR ANY FUELING CHANGES BY ADJUSTING THE LONG TERM FUEL TRIMS TO KEEP THE AFR CLOSE TO 14.7 AT ALL TIMES EXCEPT FOR WOT.
You people need to stop passing out misinformation around here. If you have no idea what you are talking about and are just spitting the same **** you heard from someone else here you should stop.
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Originally Posted by brad8266
LOL there was just a thread on this, but let me quicky explain it to you again.
YOUR CAR WILL NOT RUN RICH AT IDLE OR PARTIAL THROTTLE DRIVING AFTER A LONGTUBE INSTALL. I DONT CARE IF YOU THINK YOU SMELL FUEL AND IT IS RICH. 99.9% OF THE TIME THE FUEL SMELL IS BECAUSE WHEN YOU DO THE LT INSTALL YOU ARE ALSO INSTALLING AN ORY PIPE AT THE SAME TIME THUS ELIMENATING CATS. WHEN YOU DONT HAVE CATS YOU WILL SMELL FUEL, PERIOD. THE PCM WILL COMPENSATE FOR ANY FUELING CHANGES BY ADJUSTING THE LONG TERM FUEL TRIMS TO KEEP THE AFR CLOSE TO 14.7 AT ALL TIMES EXCEPT FOR WOT.
You people need to stop passing out misinformation around here. If you have no idea what you are talking about and are just spitting the same **** you heard from someone else here you should stop.
YOUR CAR WILL NOT RUN RICH AT IDLE OR PARTIAL THROTTLE DRIVING AFTER A LONGTUBE INSTALL. I DONT CARE IF YOU THINK YOU SMELL FUEL AND IT IS RICH. 99.9% OF THE TIME THE FUEL SMELL IS BECAUSE WHEN YOU DO THE LT INSTALL YOU ARE ALSO INSTALLING AN ORY PIPE AT THE SAME TIME THUS ELIMENATING CATS. WHEN YOU DONT HAVE CATS YOU WILL SMELL FUEL, PERIOD. THE PCM WILL COMPENSATE FOR ANY FUELING CHANGES BY ADJUSTING THE LONG TERM FUEL TRIMS TO KEEP THE AFR CLOSE TO 14.7 AT ALL TIMES EXCEPT FOR WOT.
You people need to stop passing out misinformation around here. If you have no idea what you are talking about and are just spitting the same **** you heard from someone else here you should stop.
Originally Posted by 1999 SS
what do you suggest?
Originally Posted by bjamick
yep my car kinda has this problem but i havent ever had my car tuned and ive got mods in sig LOL
Originally Posted by DuronClocker
You're a brave soul to be running a 100-shot on a car with an aftermarket MAF untuned.
Originally Posted by brad8266
I suggested that the thread poster first get rid of the MAFT he has. he should also do a scan whiel driving and watch for knock retard and monitor the LTFT's. if you dont have scnner then go to carputing.com and download the free LS1 Scan and use it, it works fine. It will take you an hour to download it to a laptop, connect to the car, and go log for a short drive. That will give you a good idea on whats going on with your engine.
because usually at idle cars tend to run richer , especially at cold starting and at WOT run leaner. 14.7 is just the stoichiometric number for air/fuel ratio. but optimium air/fuel ratio is regularly in the ballpark of 13:1. of course depending on the car, engine, induction, etc.
Originally Posted by LSGunZ28
I dont think the car runs at 14.7 :1
because usually at idle cars tend to run richer , especially at cold starting and at WOT run leaner. 14.7 is just the stoichiometric number for air/fuel ratio. but optimium air/fuel ratio is regularly in the ballpark of 13:1. of course depending on the car, engine, induction, etc.
because usually at idle cars tend to run richer , especially at cold starting and at WOT run leaner. 14.7 is just the stoichiometric number for air/fuel ratio. but optimium air/fuel ratio is regularly in the ballpark of 13:1. of course depending on the car, engine, induction, etc.
Originally Posted by brad8266
You cant be serious right? You must have no idea how the PCM operates. Once the car warms up and goes into closed loop it will try to stay at 14.7 unless you go WOT, then it goes strictly by what is in the MAF table. Do some research on what yolu are talking about before you spout out misinformation.
I am pretty certain of that.
But please put some input on my misinformation if you can, so that I can learn.
thanks.