View Poll Results: Where to put it?
1.
20
38.46%
2.
15
28.85%
3.
13
25.00%
Just run open exhuast ports. Louder is faster!
4
7.69%
Voters: 52. You may not vote on this poll
Question about Electric cutout.
#1
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From: San Diego, Ca.
Question about Electric cutout.
Was looking to purchase one soon, and was wondering where is the popular place to put it? So, I took this opportunity to draw a ghetto paint drawing. lol Cant help but laugh, it looks horrible. Anyways, where do you guys put it? 1, 2, or 3? Thanks guys, lol,
Last edited by 93camaro_zzz; 02-22-2007 at 08:46 AM.
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#8
Actually that isn't right behind the header, its right at the end of the I-pipe before it turns to go up and over the axle. That's where mine's installed currently. I've got another cutout sitting in the trunk too that I may install. I'm going to be adding cats to my car, so I'm debating removing the one cutout and installing the cutouts right off each header with the cats on the pipe where they angle back together to the Y.
#9
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Is it that much of a pain to install the cutout on the bend in the y-pipe as it goes up and over the axle? You know what I mean. Seems like a great spot, but also maybe kinda tricky. Thatnk for all the responses.
#10
Originally Posted by DuronClocker
Actually that isn't right behind the header, its right at the end of the I-pipe before it turns to go up and over the axle.
+1
The "sweet spot" is pretty much directly undernearth where someone's left foot would be if they were sitting in the backseat, passenger side.
#11
Right behind where the backseat passenger side person's feet will be. It's almost like GM meant for there to be a cutout there. There's also a rubber grommet in the floor that you can pop out and run the wire through.
#12
in agree
Originally Posted by TheBlurLS1
Right behind where the backseat passenger side person's feet will be. It's almost like GM meant for there to be a cutout there. There's also a rubber grommet in the floor that you can pop out and run the wire through.
#14
#1 is the best for cabin noise and not sucking fumes at idle. I would think that just after the merge (after #3 but before #2) might produce a tiny bit more power as it reduces the restriction caused by the 3" pipe.
The best solution is to empty your Y-pipe into a 3.5" pipe I-pipe using a flowmaster merge. Then use a 3.5" cutout close to #1 and neck back down to 3" to go back over the axle to your catback. It worked very well on my prior car.
The best solution is to empty your Y-pipe into a 3.5" pipe I-pipe using a flowmaster merge. Then use a 3.5" cutout close to #1 and neck back down to 3" to go back over the axle to your catback. It worked very well on my prior car.
#16
Originally Posted by 93camaro_zzz
Is it that much of a pain to install the cutout on the bend in the y-pipe as it goes up and over the axle? You know what I mean. Seems like a great spot, but also maybe kinda tricky. Thatnk for all the responses.
#18
Pic is not the best, but as stated previously it's as if the GM engineers puposely created the cavity aft of the front passenger side seat for an exhaust cutout.The electric motor for the cutout fits perfectly there.
http://new.photos.yahoo.com/dlandsv@...03119866819/10
If you have a QuickTime make sure to add a turndown now else the exhaust will blow directly against the floorboard.
I have a Street Pro and like it over the QuickTime I owned previously because I didn't like the angle of the Quicktime (shoots off to the side rather that straight back) or the fact you had to count to five when opening or closing the cutout on the Quicktime.
The Street Pro switch kills the power on full-open or full-close unlike the Quicktime which will run the motor until you release the switch (that's hard on the electric motor). Street Pro is ceramic coated also.
http://new.photos.yahoo.com/dlandsv@...03119866819/10
If you have a QuickTime make sure to add a turndown now else the exhaust will blow directly against the floorboard.
I have a Street Pro and like it over the QuickTime I owned previously because I didn't like the angle of the Quicktime (shoots off to the side rather that straight back) or the fact you had to count to five when opening or closing the cutout on the Quicktime.
The Street Pro switch kills the power on full-open or full-close unlike the Quicktime which will run the motor until you release the switch (that's hard on the electric motor). Street Pro is ceramic coated also.
#20
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32of32, thats EXACTLY what I am speaking of! Thats where my friend put it, and it seems like a great place! I wont be welding myself, do you think shops will have a problem with this? Thanks again,