02 SS Won't Start... Please chime in!
02 SS Won't Start... Please chime in! The car fired up like clockwork every time recently. I had to remove the battery to use it in another dead vehicle. Put the battery back in and it's not hitting. The motor turns over fine, I'm getting spark... I smell a buttload of gas. I'm going to hook my fuel pressure gauge up to the rail. The first few times I tried starting it it'd kick but wouldn't catch. Same thing for a couple more tries and now it won't even try to catch. The security light isn't on while cranking. The engine sensor fuse was blown also. I'm stumped guys... So far I'm thinking ...Relays, Fuel Pump...
Staging Lane
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 96
Likes: 0
From: Auburn,AL War Damn Eagle!!!!
Sorry bro cant help ya, thats got me stumped, I think your heading in the right direction though, You know your car better than all of us and if you think you smell alot more gas than normall I look into that 1st. How fars Dothan from Daphne?
About 3 hours. I'm pretty sure I found the problem... The car I'm working on isn't mine and the guy used to have spray on the car... Well I traced a tach wire that was feeding his old Digital window switch and found it was just cut about 18" from the computer. The end of it was burnt and I'm pretty sure it let the magic smoke out of the computer.
Update... Found another PCM and the car still won't fire. I'm nearly at my wits end. Here's a list of what I've gone through so far.
PCM
Fuel Pressure 58/60 PSI
VATS
U1000/16/40 Codes Present
No P**** Codes On Start Attempt
HP Tuner Sees RPM During Starting
HP Tuner Sees correct Engine Temp During Starting
^^Unplugged ECT Sensor reading defaulted to -38 As Planned
Throttle Position Shows Correct 0-100
12.4V to IAC
***Only 10.*V to TPS??
MAF 4.8V
IAT 4.8V
Havn't Physically Checked the Following
Cam Position Sensor
Crank Position Sensor
But I'm not getting codes on Crank Attempt?
I'm also still getting spark which would eliminate a CKP, and it's my understanding that with a bad Cam Position Sensor the car would still run.
It's got cheap Champion Plugs in it but if it didn't like the plugs it'd still try to fire?
Spark+Combustion+Fuel = Boom... I've got no boom boom
I'm nearly ready to just buy a damn Tech 2...
I'll paypal the person who guesses the problem $10
FYI: The car has 40k Miles
PCM
Fuel Pressure 58/60 PSI
VATS
U1000/16/40 Codes Present
No P**** Codes On Start Attempt
HP Tuner Sees RPM During Starting
HP Tuner Sees correct Engine Temp During Starting
^^Unplugged ECT Sensor reading defaulted to -38 As Planned
Throttle Position Shows Correct 0-100
12.4V to IAC
***Only 10.*V to TPS??
MAF 4.8V
IAT 4.8V
Havn't Physically Checked the Following
Cam Position Sensor
Crank Position Sensor
But I'm not getting codes on Crank Attempt?
I'm also still getting spark which would eliminate a CKP, and it's my understanding that with a bad Cam Position Sensor the car would still run.
It's got cheap Champion Plugs in it but if it didn't like the plugs it'd still try to fire?
Spark+Combustion+Fuel = Boom... I've got no boom boom
I'm nearly ready to just buy a damn Tech 2...
I'll paypal the person who guesses the problem $10
FYI: The car has 40k Miles
I just spoke with a gentleman that does PCM flashing for GM vehicles and he told me something interesting. I told him the problems I was having and he said if the new PCM that I tried wasn't flashed to the same VIN # it wouldn't even attempt to start. He also said it might need a Security Relearn... It still doesn't make sense that it doesn't fire...
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Might be a dumb question, but is the battey fully charged? If it worked fine untill you the took the battery out and put it back in, maybe the other car drained a little too much of the battery and its not getting enough volts to turn over.
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Pulling battery will reset fuel trims and idle trim info so if the
car was only getting by with the tune, because it learned to
fix some air/fuel errors it would have to repeat 2nd grade.
Stock tune, even worse.
Might try using HPTuners bidirectional controls to force a
set IAC position (making sure it has excess air) and see if
it will catch. You might also try the flood-clear (floored
pedal) and see if that makes it.
Watch the cranking fuel pressure and see if it gets bled
down or stays up; line precharge and the sustaining fuel
pump voltage come separately, if the pump does not stay
lit then the security system may be to blame (try "relink
VATS").
car was only getting by with the tune, because it learned to
fix some air/fuel errors it would have to repeat 2nd grade.
Stock tune, even worse.
Might try using HPTuners bidirectional controls to force a
set IAC position (making sure it has excess air) and see if
it will catch. You might also try the flood-clear (floored
pedal) and see if that makes it.
Watch the cranking fuel pressure and see if it gets bled
down or stays up; line precharge and the sustaining fuel
pump voltage come separately, if the pump does not stay
lit then the security system may be to blame (try "relink
VATS").
That makes a lot of sense Jimmy. Taking the fuel trim being out of whack by the lost memory VATS would have enough time to cut the fuel pump before it had a chance to catch. 3/4 of the times I've tried to crank it the pedal has been to the floor, "taking flood clear mode into consideration". I do appreciate the good info.
Originally Posted by =Tac=
Might be a dumb question, but is the battey fully charged? If it worked fine untill you the took the battery out and put it back in, maybe the other car drained a little too much of the battery and its not getting enough volts to turn over.
Thanks for the input