When is an oil cooler needed??
Just want to get your opinions on this subject
tried to search, but it's not working right now.
I just wanted to get an idea of what everyone else is doing.
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i agree with about 95% with what you say... you forgot 1 factor though.. what weight/thickness of oil you are using..
if you are using a very thin oil.. like GC 0w-30 or 5w-30.. your oil is thin and heats up a little faster than lets say 20w-50 (what i use for road racing). So, on a daily driven car, in excess traffic, hot climate zone (FL, AZ, NM, CA) i say you can use one.. but for people in cooler weather.. and dont see a lot of traffic or heat.. dont need one.. so long as you keep your cars' maintance up (good coolant, fans working correctly, a 180* thermo)..
road racing.. a must.. i see oil temps in the 250+ range with using 20w-50.. just think it i was using 5w-30.. wow...
so to the person asking the question.. ask yourself what do you do with the car.. and then decide...
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i see those temps when using a thicker weight oil.. and doing flat out racing for 20min sessions .. WITH my cooler ..
The best place to monitor oil temps is in the pan so as not to be influenced by heat drawn off by the cylinder case and/or heads.
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Last edited by CarlC; Apr 16, 2007 at 11:26 PM.
if you are using a very thin oil.. like GC 0w-30 or 5w-30.. your oil is thin and heats up a little faster than lets say 20w-50 (what i use for road racing). So, on a daily driven car, in excess traffic, hot climate zone (FL, AZ, NM, CA) i say you can use one.. but for people in cooler weather.. and dont see a lot of traffic or heat.. dont need one.. so long as you keep your cars' maintance up (good coolant, fans working correctly, a 180* thermo)..
road racing.. a must.. i see oil temps in the 250+ range with using 20w-50.. just think it i was using 5w-30.. wow...
so to the person asking the question.. ask yourself what do you do with the car.. and then decide...
You have it backwards. Thinner oil moves faster and carries heat away. Thick oil moves slow and retaine more heat .
1. The oil needs to exceed 212*F in order to promote the burn off of water contamination, from condensation and gasoline combustion by-products, and light hydrocarbons from fuel contamination.
2. The aniline point of most oils is around 100-110*C (212-230*F) which is the temperature at which the base oil and additive package obtain ideal miscibility.
3. Many of the critical additives like ZDDP and MoDTC require a lot of heat to activate and start working.
4. Hotter oil promotes the release of entrained air, reducing oil aeration.
For those reasons, you'll have the longest service life from your oil in that temperature range. An oil cooler is only beneficial if the oil temperature is exceeding this range and you need to bring it back down to this range. I don't recommend a cooler unless the oil temperature is exceeding 250*F and staying there. Group III and IV synthetic oils can handle higher heat better than Group I and II conventional oils.
Chemistry tells you that the ideal oil temperature is between 175-190*F. Below 175*F, the oil has a tendency to nitrate. Above 190*F, the oil has a tendency to oxidize. The problem is this is assuming ideal conditions with no contaminants from combustion, no water or fuel dilution, no soot, etc... These factors force a higher oil temperature to contain them, otherwise they would act as catalyst for further oxidation than would be caused by the higher temperature. Sadly, you can't have your cake and eat it too.
If the engine is for drag racing only, then it's a different story. You aren't trying to go normal oil change intervals and 100k+ miles on a drag car. In that case, you want the coolest oil temperature you can get and adjust the viscosity for that temperature appropriately.




