Xsta Z 28

iTrader: (2)

I have the basic understanding of what is invoveld with removing and installing an ASP Crank Pulley.

I have an A4 equipped SS.

My question is, with a powerful enough air impact gun, could the crank bolt be removed and reinstalled with an impact gun??

Or does the removal of the bolt and seating of the pulley need to be done with hand tools??

I know the bolt needs to be cranked down really tight at first, so the pulley is seated right.

Thanks in advance for any help you can give me.

Pro Stock John

iTrader: (34)

Roy and I did his last Saturday.

You know that you need to use something to hold the flexplate in place right?

Once you do that, I'd break the bolt loose by hand, how much psi is your air compressor? That bolt is on there with lik 250 ft lbs of tq.

Roy's ASP pulley started by hand no problem and he was able to thread it quite a bit. I'd use the air compressor a lot here.

I have the GM puller remover, the flexplate holding too (works with M6 cars too but not needed), a bolt with the shoulders cut off that will not bottom out, and a tq wrench if you want to rent them all for like $20... I'm by O'Hare.

Xsta Z 28

iTrader: (2)

John,

I may take you up on that rental offer. I'm going to be busy with a head/cam/intake mod on a buddy's SS over the next few weekends.

When I'm ready to do my SS, I'll e-mail you.

Thanks!

Andy

11 Bravo

iTrader: (3)

I removed my bolt with an air wrench. Came off in about 2 seconds. I used the wrench to put the new bolt on, and it was so tight I just needed to use the torque wrench to tighten it about another 50 ft/lbs.

SS SLP2

iTrader: (8)

www.ebbsnflows.cz28.com/photo4.html <http://www.ebbsnflows.cz28.com/photo4.html>
TOOLS
From Left to Right:

-24" Piece of pipe (for use w/ Breaker-bar)
-18" 1/2" Breaker-bar, 15/16 socket (1/2"), 15mm Socket (3/8")
-3/8" Socket wrench
-Torque wrench (Capable of 250 Ft. Lbs)
-3 arm pulley Puller (Part # 2768RT...from Pepboys)

STEP 1: Remove the serpentine belts (2 of them).
Using the 15mm socket, remove tension from the belts. To do this, simply apply pressure to the wrench in a downward/Clockwise postion. The "Belt tensioner" pulley will rotate downward and remove tension. Just pull the belt off. This method works for both belts.
STEP 2: Loosen Crank pulley Bolt
If you have a M-6, put it in 5th gear. This will prevent the crank from turning when breaking the crank bolt loose. Using the 18" Breaker-bar (along w/ the 24" Pipe...if necessary) loosen (DO NOT fully remove)the Crank pulley bolt. You want to leave the bolt still threaded just slightly. The bolt will provide the "base" on which the pulley puller will rest on.
STEP 3: Remove Pulley
Attach pulley puller (Part# 2768RT) to the INSIDE hub of the pulley. DO NOT USE THE OUTSIDE DIAMETER...YOU WILL DAMAGE THE PULLEY. Notice the red arrow points to the Crank bolt still in place (although almost completely backed out). After the pulley is attached, begin tightening the Pulley-puller...as it tightens, the Pulley will begin to inch it's way off the crank snout. Unfortunately the Crank bolt isn't long enough to allow the pulley-puller to fully seperate the Crank Pulley from the snout. To completely seperate it, we had to use a small pry bar. (If you do this...BE GENTLE! You do not want to damage the crank.) After a few gentle pry's at various points around the pulley, it fell off into my hands.
Post Pulley removal
If you've done everything correctly to this point, this is what it will look like.
STEP 4: Install ASP Underdrive Pulley
Lubricate and mount the ASP pulley onto the snout. You should be able to press it on just far enuff to allow the STOCK crank bolt to begin threading. Once it is threaded, tighten it to 240 ft. lbs. or until it is completely seated on the crank snout. Afterwards, REMOVE THE STOCK BOLT and replace it with the NEW CRANK BOLT. You will tighten the NEW bolt to 37 ft. lbs. and then turn it an additonal 120 degrees.

You are almost finished. Afterwards, re-install the new belts (shorter belts), using the diagram located on the driverside fenderwell in the engine bay.
Stock Pulley vs. ASP pulley
You can easily see the huge difference is size. The ASP is a little lighter as well.

AZLS1

iTrader: (2)

This is one of those installs that is easy on some cars and a HUGE PITA on others. Good Luck I hope you have one of the easy ones.

Sterling.

Red Dragon

i know this may sound like a dumb question, but im reading where its says to lubricate the new pully before you install it. Now this is done with alittle bit of motor oil right??? I just wanna get this right the first time.

WILWAXU

iTrader: (6)

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by Red Dragon:
<strong>i know this may sound like a dumb question, but im reading where its says to lubricate the new pully before you install it. Now this is done with alittle bit of motor oil right??? I just wanna get this right the first time.</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Yes or grease

02 'Hawk

then, hope your crank seal doesn't leak. I have to fix that and am cruising for the way to go...

do it myself (how do you get the seal out and put a new one in with no special tool...) or put the OEM piece back on and dealer/warranty it.

Chris

cablebandit

iTrader: (37)

I used a long pull handle...propped it up against the swaybar mount...hit the key and it was loose...took all of 2 secs to break itloose <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" />