Cheapest 160 degree thermostat
06-02-2007, 12:23 AM
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Cheapest 160 degree thermostat What is the cheapest 160 degree thermostat for the LS1 F-Body? I have seen many with the housing for around $50, but I just need the actual thermostat and gasket itself. I believe SDPC has them for $25, there is an SLP version from Summit for $25 as well as a Stant version from Summit for $25. Then there was one in Jegs for $16 (it was Mr. Gasket if I remember correctly). Thanks.
06-02-2007, 01:03 PM
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I thought the general consensus was that people with bolt-on cars run a 160 degree thermostat. Or will this have the car running to cold? Is it fine to just get a replacement 180 degree thermostat or should I go for the 160 degree version. What temperature will the car run at with a 160 degree thermostat? Thanks for your help guys.
06-02-2007, 04:25 PM
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I just read in this thread https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthrea...ree+thermostat that the 160 degree version will result in worse gas mileage. Can anyone confirm this. If it's true I'll stick with the stocker.
Many people recommend the stock one unless your car is running nitrous/forced induction because newer engines are designed to run hotter. Any other thoughts on this issue?
Many people recommend the stock one unless your car is running nitrous/forced induction because newer engines are designed to run hotter. Any other thoughts on this issue?
06-02-2007, 04:29 PM
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There is also some good information in this thread: https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthrea...ree+thermostat , especially the longer post with comments about this "myth".
06-02-2007, 04:31 PM
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This thread https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthrea...ree+thermostat says that the temperature gauge on the 99+ models are dummy gauges anyways and will always read 210 degrees. Is this true? How could I make mine functional? Thanks.
06-02-2007, 09:30 PM
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It's not entirely true, the gauge moves in "notches" and I
can see my 160 'stat plus full-on fans rests slightly lower
than it did stock.
I have noticed no particular benefit from the 160 and on
the highway with the A/C on in summer, the radiator can't
maintain the 177F normal setpoint so my tune (done under
better conditions) goes to hell.
Efficiency will suffer at cooler temps. Peak power I don't
think improves (given that you have proper fan settings)
if you aren't running higher compression than stock, or
boost. If you are well away from the diesel limit then the
rest of it is a tuning matter, you want a consistent base,
and a 160 'stat without the fans set right is really worse
because it increases the coolant temp swing a given tune
has to accommodate - 'stat sets the minimum, fans or
rolling airflow set the max. There's a lot of room for
improvement in te F-body cooling system. The thermostat
however, is not it.
can see my 160 'stat plus full-on fans rests slightly lower
than it did stock.
I have noticed no particular benefit from the 160 and on
the highway with the A/C on in summer, the radiator can't
maintain the 177F normal setpoint so my tune (done under
better conditions) goes to hell.
Efficiency will suffer at cooler temps. Peak power I don't
think improves (given that you have proper fan settings)
if you aren't running higher compression than stock, or
boost. If you are well away from the diesel limit then the
rest of it is a tuning matter, you want a consistent base,
and a 160 'stat without the fans set right is really worse
because it increases the coolant temp swing a given tune
has to accommodate - 'stat sets the minimum, fans or
rolling airflow set the max. There's a lot of room for
improvement in te F-body cooling system. The thermostat
however, is not it.
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06-02-2007, 11:06 PM
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Thank you. This is exactly what I was looking for. I will end up getting a stock replacement then and will have the fan settings done when I get my car tuned.
06-04-2007, 03:25 PM
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Well I found a Gates 180* thermostat locally brand new from an autoparts store with the thermostat, housing and gasket for only $21. This seems like a very good deal. Will post up about how the coolant change goes this weekend.
06-08-2007, 07:46 AM
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Chae: Here's why the temp gauge "doesn't work" and how to fix it.
The problem with the temp gauge in 99+ is that some guru decided that people were complaining about the swinging of an accurate gauge that moves according to the coolant temp. (Temp gauge needle moves up as coolant temp increases and needle moves down when fans kick on and coolant temp drops).
In 98 there were 2 temp sensors - one for the PCM and a separate one for the gauge and the gauge was "accurate". In 99+ when GM saved $$ by going to a single temp sensor, (which in itself is not a bad thing) the engineers responded to this stupid requirement by making the temp gauge read out only temp increases after the temp gauge displays 210, i.e. after hitting 210, the gauge needle will not drop below 210 no matter what the actual coolant temp is until you cycle the power. This signal conditioning is done by software in the PCM. If you are technically inclined, check out hysteresis: hysteresis
FIX: There is a thread that shows how to add another temp sensor ala the 98 setup, and run the input directly to the gauge cluster. I bought the parts, but haven't done the mod yet, so I can't vouch personally for the mod but it seems pretty straightforward.
Temp Gauge Mod
The problem with the temp gauge in 99+ is that some guru decided that people were complaining about the swinging of an accurate gauge that moves according to the coolant temp. (Temp gauge needle moves up as coolant temp increases and needle moves down when fans kick on and coolant temp drops).
In 98 there were 2 temp sensors - one for the PCM and a separate one for the gauge and the gauge was "accurate". In 99+ when GM saved $$ by going to a single temp sensor, (which in itself is not a bad thing) the engineers responded to this stupid requirement by making the temp gauge read out only temp increases after the temp gauge displays 210, i.e. after hitting 210, the gauge needle will not drop below 210 no matter what the actual coolant temp is until you cycle the power. This signal conditioning is done by software in the PCM. If you are technically inclined, check out hysteresis: hysteresis
FIX: There is a thread that shows how to add another temp sensor ala the 98 setup, and run the input directly to the gauge cluster. I bought the parts, but haven't done the mod yet, so I can't vouch personally for the mod but it seems pretty straightforward.
Temp Gauge Mod
06-10-2007, 12:40 AM
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According to Install University the install is pretty straightforward. Will change coolant/thermostat tomorrow and report back about it.
What fan settings are you guys running with 180* thermostats.
What fan settings are you guys running with 180* thermostats.
06-11-2007, 11:10 PM
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Went ahead and installed it and flushed the coolant system and added a new mixture of 50/50 Dexcool and water. Will get the fan settings changed when I get a tune after the LS6 intake manifold. Do any of you guys use a fan switch for the track even with adjusted fan settings.
