Cooling Issues w/ new motor
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Cooling Issues w/ new motor I had my new 402cid iron motor installed in my car for a week now. I am trying to break it in and do a shakedown on the car before I add boost to it. This is what I am using. The 402 is low compression for the boost (8.6:1) with Dart Heads ported by TEA, Texas Giant Camshaft, Edelbrock Drag Race Headers, and factory LS6 intake/TB (for now). The cooling is handled by a Meziere EWP, 160 thermo, factory radiator, and EPP's dual fan for Procharged cars. I have straight water in the system now. When I am driving the car just cruising at 2K-2.5K rpm at 55mph, I can see the ECT rising on my HPT program to 210 letting the PCM control the fans which are set to 160-on Fan1 and 180-on Fan2. Then I pull over and turn both fans on with HPT and watch the temps come down to 180. Once I get rolling again with the fans locked on, the temps rise to 190. Here is the strange part. When I sit at the stoplight for a while, the temps started to fall again. Here is a another straight thing. I decided to make one more shift (6spd) and the temps started to slide down to around 185. So what would be best to fix the problem? Better coolant? Open thermostat? Wired on Fans? Ditch the EWP? Better Radiator? Or do I need to adjust the timing of the motor to help keep the unburned fuel to go out the exhaust port heating up the coolant (a real gearhead question)? Oh, one more thing. If I run the fans and EWP with the motor off, the temps will go from 180 to 140 in less than 5 mins. Anyone else had these issues?
I am not sure if this is true but I was told that the EWP's do not move as much water flow at higher RPM's as the stock pump but move more at idle then the stocker that might explain the rise in temps while crusing and lower temps while stopped. more flow while stopped less flow while moving
You don't need that low of a stat. 180-185 would be fine. But I don't think that has anything to do with your problem. Certainly do not run with no stat! I think your EWP may be cutting you short or something.
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I know that you can't run without a thermostat, that is why I said open thermostat to have some restriction so that water doesn't rush past without doing its job. I am starting to think the iron block is also contributing to the extra heat buildup. BTW, I am running just straight water in the system. Any anti-freeze or additives that could help in this issue?
My stock engine runs much cooler with an electric water pump than it ever did without, so I wouldn't think that would be an issue unless it is malfunctioning. I don't have any cooling issues, but am going ahead and installing a BeCool radiator anyways to see what happens. It fits with minor modification, and a few other people on here have them too with good results.
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Originally Posted by MeentSS02
My stock engine runs much cooler with an electric water pump than it ever did without, so I wouldn't think that would be an issue unless it is malfunctioning. I don't have any cooling issues, but am going ahead and installing a BeCool radiator anyways to see what happens. It fits with minor modification, and a few other people on here have them too with good results.
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Originally Posted by Gold Phoenix
Not to sound like an *******, but MY MOTOR IS NOT STOCK!!! I thought I explained that in the very first post to give readers that idea.
So much for trying to toss out an idea...the BeCool radiator is much larger, and much nicer than the stock piece, which in my opinion, is a piece.
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One thing for sure that you don't want to do is install the ATI D1SC until you get your overheating problem taken care. If you have overheating problems now it's guaranteed you will after you install the supercharger.
Things to check.
Pre 98's had iron blocks so the pre 98 radiators are just a tad bigger with probably 15 percent more cooling capacity.
Your stock 98 is marginal at best to keep a stock motor cool with the AC on -so as suggested a larger pre 98 radiator or a two row BeCool is a good choice.
Your stock radiator must be at 100 percent - can't be dirty at all.
Same goes for the AC condensor - it must be perfectly clean. With the AC on air is pulled across the fins of the AC condensor and then pulled directly through the radiator. The idea is to have fresh ambient air drawn through the radiator not superheated air from the AC. Turn the AC off and your temps will drop proving that the AC condensor causes elevated fluid temps in the radiator.
Make sure your fans are actually pulling air and not pushing.
Reinstall the front air dam if its removed.
Find a way to remove some of the air in the engine compartment-the heat soak in the engine compartment is bizarre compared to other cars. My stb gets so hot I can't even touch it or will burn my hand.
An $8 bottle of water wetter won't hurt.
Be prepared to get an alky kit after you install the ATI to lower your IAT's.
Things to check.
Pre 98's had iron blocks so the pre 98 radiators are just a tad bigger with probably 15 percent more cooling capacity.
Your stock 98 is marginal at best to keep a stock motor cool with the AC on -so as suggested a larger pre 98 radiator or a two row BeCool is a good choice.
Your stock radiator must be at 100 percent - can't be dirty at all.
Same goes for the AC condensor - it must be perfectly clean. With the AC on air is pulled across the fins of the AC condensor and then pulled directly through the radiator. The idea is to have fresh ambient air drawn through the radiator not superheated air from the AC. Turn the AC off and your temps will drop proving that the AC condensor causes elevated fluid temps in the radiator.
Make sure your fans are actually pulling air and not pushing.
Reinstall the front air dam if its removed.
Find a way to remove some of the air in the engine compartment-the heat soak in the engine compartment is bizarre compared to other cars. My stb gets so hot I can't even touch it or will burn my hand.
An $8 bottle of water wetter won't hurt.
Be prepared to get an alky kit after you install the ATI to lower your IAT's.
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Originally Posted by dlandsvZ28
One thing for sure that you don't want to do is install the ATI D1SC until you get your overheating problem taken care. If you have overheating problems now it's guaranteed you will after you install the supercharger.
Things to check.
Pre 98's had iron blocks so the pre 98 radiators are just a tad bigger with probably 15 percent more cooling capacity.
Your stock 98 is marginal at best to keep a stock motor cool with the AC on -so as suggested a larger pre 98 radiator or a two row BeCool is a good choice.
Your stock radiator must be at 100 percent - can't be dirty at all.
Same goes for the AC condensor - it must be perfectly clean. With the AC on air is pulled across the fins of the AC condensor and then pulled directly through the radiator. The idea is to have fresh ambient air drawn through the radiator not superheated air from the AC. Turn the AC off and your temps will drop proving that the AC condensor causes elevated fluid temps in the radiator.
Make sure your fans are actually pulling air and not pushing.
Reinstall the front air dam if its removed.
Find a way to remove some of the air in the engine compartment-the heat soak in the engine compartment is bizarre compared to other cars. My stb gets so hot I can't even touch it or will burn my hand.
An $8 bottle of water wetter won't hurt.
Be prepared to get an alky kit after you install the ATI to lower your IAT's.
Things to check.
Pre 98's had iron blocks so the pre 98 radiators are just a tad bigger with probably 15 percent more cooling capacity.
Your stock 98 is marginal at best to keep a stock motor cool with the AC on -so as suggested a larger pre 98 radiator or a two row BeCool is a good choice.
Your stock radiator must be at 100 percent - can't be dirty at all.
Same goes for the AC condensor - it must be perfectly clean. With the AC on air is pulled across the fins of the AC condensor and then pulled directly through the radiator. The idea is to have fresh ambient air drawn through the radiator not superheated air from the AC. Turn the AC off and your temps will drop proving that the AC condensor causes elevated fluid temps in the radiator.
Make sure your fans are actually pulling air and not pushing.
Reinstall the front air dam if its removed.
Find a way to remove some of the air in the engine compartment-the heat soak in the engine compartment is bizarre compared to other cars. My stb gets so hot I can't even touch it or will burn my hand.
An $8 bottle of water wetter won't hurt.
Be prepared to get an alky kit after you install the ATI to lower your IAT's.
The previous engine my car was the factory short block with a head/cam package. And yes the EWP did keep the temps at 170* at all times. I know the iron block is retaining more heat.
Now, I didn't mention that I have completely removed the A/C from the car, so the condensor causing higher temps is not an issue. I am still running staight water just in case I need to pull the radiator to do some other work. I have DexCool and Purple Ice on standby when I feel I am not tearing things back apart.
About a different radiator, I would like not to use a direct fit radiator for one good reason. I had to make room for the F1-R. So the current radiator has been relocated about two inches forward. Now, if I want to change to a dual row radiator, I would like to go alittle shorter to get it even further forward to have more room for air to pass thru. One universal radiator I was looking at is 27.5"W x 15.5"H x 3"D and has dual 1" tubes. It is also a circle track radiator.
The cooling issue is manageable at the drag strip since it doesn't take me long to cool the motor to 140*. Let me ask this. What would be your guys absolute max engine coolant temp for cruising. 180, 190, 200, 210, 220?