I've seen a few posts from people saying an lt1 (97) radiator will drop in place of a stock ls1 rad. I'm considering this (located in AZ, which should explain why). Anyone tried this and can provide any info, like - does it really fit? run cooler? Also there's supposed to be a heater outlet that needs to be blocked off, what would I use to block it?

 

If budget isn't an issue get the much larger MUCH nicer "Be Cool" radiator... I'm in Phoenix and installed it about 3 months ago and it's top notch!

here's a few pics of the stock one and the Be Cool one side by side for comparison...

 

any year LT1 will fit. the LT1 has a larger core than the LS1 and is a direct replacement.

 

yeah if i remember correctly, SLP sells the lt1 radiator's as an ls1 upgrade!

 

The becool radiator is an awesome radiator. BUT, if long term durability is key the lt1 stocker is the way to go. I had a becool full aluminum radiator in my monte and it cooled great but after two years worth of everyday driving the tanks started to crack at the welds to the core. I have seen a few other brands do it through the shop on cars we have built for customers so that may be one thing to keep in the back of your mind. I am in south texas which is much like phoenix in relation to the heat and much needed cooling performance. Becool did the job it could idle all day with the a.c on and the electric fans kept it at 195-200 steady without anyproblems.

 

hmmm... it's funny you mention that because I swapped my stocker out because of the cracks in the plastic housing...

 

This info might help. SLP does not sell the LT1 radiator anymore unless made they made a decision to restock them again - give them a call. But even if they do - you can buy a new replacement standard transmission LT1 radiator for much less. I paid $125 at a radiator wholesaler.

The LT1 radiator appears to be about 1/8 to 1/4 inch wider. I recall that it's cooling capacity is about 20 percent more.

History - my car.

I've had continual overheating problems since I installed an ATI D1SC on my 98 h/c 347 even after installing a SPAL Extreme and a smaller 9 inch puller.

So I bought a new BeCool.

I was unable to get the BeCool to fit because of the ATI head unit and the fact that I have an additional 9 inch fan installed (ATI fan shroud has just one fan). Due to time contraints during the install of the BeCool and the fact that I did not want to uninstall the AC lines and water pump making the install easier for the BeCool - I opted to install a new LT1 radiator sans auto cooler. There are othe issues tool with the BeCool.

Results with the LT1:

I could never get the car to idle with the AC on during hot 100 degree days (Kansas) with the stock radiator without boiling over.

After the install of the LT1 the car will still jump to 220-230 range if idled too long but it has yet to boil over as was typical with the stock radiator (note I also have a Mezeire electric water pump installed for both radiators and a 98 so the temp gauge is accurate).

Is this a true test - not necessarily? My AC condensor was plugged with grass clippings and debris - probabably reducing the capacity by 20 percent at least - causing much hotter air being drawn off of it directly through the radiator. So the AC condensor core was cleaned at the same time as the install of the LT1 radiator.

As for my new BeCool still in the box. I'll install it when I pull the motor and install a 408. The install will be much easier and making refabbing the support brackets so the BeCool will slide in easier. BeCool also moved the drain plug to the driver's side pointing it directly into the ATI charger head with little if any clearance. It will be closed with a brass plug with a new drain-plug installed on the passenger side where it should have been placed from the get-go by BeCool.

There is a standoff leg on the passenger bottom side of th BeCool. It is centered and will not fit the hole in the support bracket. Cut it off or enlarge the hole in the support bracket so the leg will drop into the hole when you do the install. It will make the drop-in of the BeCool much easier.

Summary: If you don't have a turbo or ATI and can swing the extra money get the BeCool. Else get a new replacement LT1 (6 speed model) for much less. If you have an A4 - still get the standard tranmission model - add a transmission cooler and completely bypass the tank in the radiator. No use to heat up the water in a marginal radiator from the transmission fluid that can just barely keep the car cool as it is.

I also have a Spal Extreme fan that pulls 3000 cfm - I think that's about 500 cfm more than the stock dual 12 inchers. So that might factor in too when comparing the LT1 against the stock LS1.

hth

 

weird... apparentley everyone had issues installing the Be Cool cept me...

I don't know why you need to cut the "standoff leg"...? Mine fit fine with just a little trimming of the rubber bushings in the radiator support...

For me, for the most part, everything went pretty smoothly... I did a lot of research before my install so that helped quite a bit...

All I had to do to make it fit:

1. Trim the plastic fan shroud a bit (took 20 seconds with a dremel)
2. Bend the lower radiator support to make room for the larger Be Cool (took 5 minutes with a pair of channel locks)
3. Trim the rubber bushings that the radiator sits on (as mentioned above)-took 3 minutes with dremel.

and that's really about all I had to do...

 

If you can find someone who handles modine radiators in your area they have a lifetime warranty and are oem correct. I installed one in a t/a for a customer about a month ago and our cost on it was 120 to our door. We have used them for years and have had only a couple problems in the last fifteen years we have sold them. I guess heat cycling cracks are one of those things dammed if you do dammed if you dont. All materials have x amount of times they can expand and contract before they crack. I just never thought the aluminum radiators would do it until I saw it for myself or at the outside it would be longer than two years. Now granted I put almost 50K miles on it in that two years so that must also be taken into account.

 

What do I use to block off the heater hose with? The cap that came on it isn't a plug, its a cap. Where do u get that?