Lowest possible coolant temperature?
Thread Starter
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 1,066
Likes: 1
From: Zurich - Switzerland
Lowest possible coolant temperature? In a 80F day
car at idle (800 rpm)
Internally stock engine
Stock radiator
Original cooling fluid
160 thermostat
AC off
cooling fans stage 1 on
***
the lowest ECT I see is 187F
Is that normal?
If not normal what can I check?
Stefano
car at idle (800 rpm)
Internally stock engine
Stock radiator
Original cooling fluid
160 thermostat
AC off
cooling fans stage 1 on
***
the lowest ECT I see is 187F
Is that normal?
If not normal what can I check?
Stefano
Where are you getting this temp reading from? It may be off. That does not sound too bad though. My car sits around 175-185 unless its over 100 outside or my ac is on while sitting. Once the fans kick on though it jumps down and stays.
Well, you dont want the engine to run too cool because you have wear issues in the engine. Its like when your honing a block, the warmer the cylinder gets, the less amount of material its gonna take off.
Thread Starter
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 1,066
Likes: 1
From: Zurich - Switzerland
I get the temperature from the ECT scanned with AutoTap.
I need a realtively low temperature at WOT because of the supercharger or the engine will start to ping (KR + audible). I can't get raid of it in another way: less timing doesn't help, richer AFR neither. It's something related to the ECT.
Around 200 - 210F at WOT is perfect. I can keep it there with the high speed fan settings.
This means that the low speed settings should be around 190 - 195 = the fans are always on. Is that really good?
Ideally they should be off while cruising, this means the OFF setting for the low speed should be around 210F. That's OK for a NA engine but unfortunately too high for mine.
The coolant looks clean and the interior of the radiator looks new (looking from the filling cap).
Should I get a bigger radiator?
Better aftermarket?
Better one from a LT1? (look here https://ls1tech.com/forums/generation-iii-external-engine/772599-lt1-vs-ls1-radiator-pics.html)
Actually I can get the WOT temperature I want, I just don' twant the fans be on all the time!
Thank you for every post
Stefano
I need a realtively low temperature at WOT because of the supercharger or the engine will start to ping (KR + audible). I can't get raid of it in another way: less timing doesn't help, richer AFR neither. It's something related to the ECT.
Around 200 - 210F at WOT is perfect. I can keep it there with the high speed fan settings.
This means that the low speed settings should be around 190 - 195 = the fans are always on. Is that really good?
Ideally they should be off while cruising, this means the OFF setting for the low speed should be around 210F. That's OK for a NA engine but unfortunately too high for mine.
The coolant looks clean and the interior of the radiator looks new (looking from the filling cap).
Should I get a bigger radiator?
Better aftermarket?
Better one from a LT1? (look here https://ls1tech.com/forums/generation-iii-external-engine/772599-lt1-vs-ls1-radiator-pics.html)
Actually I can get the WOT temperature I want, I just don' twant the fans be on all the time!
Thank you for every post
Stefano
What's your oil temp? I have seen that keeping the oil temp reduced helps keep the coolant temps reduced. @ 80F ambient, my ECT's are between 160F & 180F depending on stop & go. Fans come on @ 180F. The oil temps (street use) gets between 200F & 210F (idle 900 RPM). The car is equipped w/ an oil cooler & an electric water pump.
My understanding is that optimum oil viscocity is reached @ 100C or 212F. These are the parameters used for internal engine part clearances as well. For this reason, I try to keep the oil temps as close to 212F as possible. As mentioned, keeping the oil temps @ or slightly below 212F will help to keep the ECT low & will maintain engine running clearances.
What has been mentioned here is based on my understanding of oil temps & engine clearance temps. This has worked well for me, but, may differ from a proffessional view point in some way. It is also a street driving assesment. Long oval or road course runs will change these values & there are other ways to deal w/ that. My car is also a modified hybrid w/a big radiator.
Generally, your oil temps will be approx 20-30F greater than the ECT. An oil temp gauge is helpfull in monitoring & controlling oil & ECT temps.
My understanding is that optimum oil viscocity is reached @ 100C or 212F. These are the parameters used for internal engine part clearances as well. For this reason, I try to keep the oil temps as close to 212F as possible. As mentioned, keeping the oil temps @ or slightly below 212F will help to keep the ECT low & will maintain engine running clearances.
What has been mentioned here is based on my understanding of oil temps & engine clearance temps. This has worked well for me, but, may differ from a proffessional view point in some way. It is also a street driving assesment. Long oval or road course runs will change these values & there are other ways to deal w/ that. My car is also a modified hybrid w/a big radiator.
Generally, your oil temps will be approx 20-30F greater than the ECT. An oil temp gauge is helpfull in monitoring & controlling oil & ECT temps.
Thread Starter
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 1,066
Likes: 1
From: Zurich - Switzerland
Originally Posted by LS1-450
What's your oil temp?
Mine is a supercharged daily drive.
I use it 365 days per year, no matter if it rains, snows or whatever.
I don't go at the track, just speeding and road racing, so it's not really planned when I need a cooler engine. A good idea would be "hot settings" for the quite driving and a fan switch for the funny moments.
But the funny mooments aren't planned
Originally Posted by tici
No idea
Mine is a supercharged daily drive.
I use it 365 days per year, no matter if it rains, snows or whatever.
I don't go at the track, just speeding and road racing, so it's not really planned when I need a cooler engine. A good idea would be "hot settings" for the quite driving and a fan switch for the funny moments.
But the funny mooments aren't planned
Mine is a supercharged daily drive.
I use it 365 days per year, no matter if it rains, snows or whatever.
I don't go at the track, just speeding and road racing, so it's not really planned when I need a cooler engine. A good idea would be "hot settings" for the quite driving and a fan switch for the funny moments.
But the funny mooments aren't planned
I saw that your car is supercharged & here in the States "road racing" is road course closed track racing. I understand that you mean street driving and sometimes fast. My description for what can be done should work well for you. If you are serious about controlling engine knock you need to either control the temperature of your INLET AIR w/an intercooler or water injection or take better control of the OIL/ECT temps, maybe both. As mentioned, personally, I'd start by installing an oil temperature gauge. Then, if oil temps are above 212F or 100c, then add an oil cooler w/a fan or install a radiator w/ an oil cooling loop so that the fan settings also cool the oil. I've run supercharged cars as well & controlling oil temps will help to reduce ECT's & ultimately engine knock caused by either inlet air &/or engine temps.
Trending Topics
Thread Starter
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 1,066
Likes: 1
From: Zurich - Switzerland
Originally Posted by LS1-450
I saw that your car is supercharged & here in the States "road racing" is road course closed track racing. I understand that you mean street driving and sometimes fast. .
Originally Posted by LS1-450
My description for what can be done should work well for you. If you are serious about controlling engine knock you need to either control the temperature of your INLET AIR w/an intercooler or water injection .
The IAT drops from 180 to 80F in 1 second.
AFR is around 11.5 (included alcohol) and timing is 17*.
Pretty conservative, I think.
Originally Posted by LS1-450
As mentioned, personally, I'd start by installing an oil temperature gauge. Then, if oil temps are above 212F or 100c, then add an oil cooler w/a fan or install a radiator w/ an oil cooling loop so that the fan settings also cool the oil. I've run supercharged cars as well & controlling oil temps will help to reduce ECT's & ultimately engine knock caused by either inlet air &/or engine temps.
Where can I install an oil cooler? This car is already full of stuff... I really don't know where to install it.
Do you know how better is a 93-96 LT1 cooler? It's about 50% thicker than those installed in LS1's
LS1 Tech Stories
The Best V8 Stories One Small Block at Time
6 Common C5 Corvette Failures and What's Involved In Repairing Them
Pouria Savadkouei
Retro Modern Bandit Pontiac Trans AM Comes With Burt Reynolds' Autograph
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Greatest Cadillac V Series Performance Models Ever, Ranked
Pouria Savadkouei
Top 10 Most Powerful Chevy Trucks Ever Made!
Hennessey's New Supercharged Silverado ZR2 Has 700 HP
Verdad Gallardo
Coachbuilt N2A Anteros Is an LS2-Powered C6 Corvette In Italian Clothes
Verdad Gallardo
Awesome K5 Blazer Restomod Comes With C7 Corvette Power
Verdad Gallardo
10 Camaros You Should Never Buy
10 LS Engine Myths That Refuse to Die
Verdad Gallardo
My 160 'stat pivots about 177F. It's hard for the radiator to
hold that point though in the summer. You might set up FAN2
(high) to be on by 180F, the low fans may be short on airflow.
And check for fine debris accumulating in the condenser and
radiator fins.
If ping rolls on with ECT, this is what the ECT spark adder table
is for.
hold that point though in the summer. You might set up FAN2
(high) to be on by 180F, the low fans may be short on airflow.
And check for fine debris accumulating in the condenser and
radiator fins.
If ping rolls on with ECT, this is what the ECT spark adder table
is for.
[QUOTE=tici]
Water/alcohol injection. 50% ethanol: 6 gallons per hour @ 100 PSI
The IAT drops from 180 to 80F in 1 second.
AFR is around 11.5 (included alcohol) and timing is 17*.
Pretty conservative, I think.
I missed the fact that you already had water injection & agree that you are conservative. 17* is pretty low; lower than what I had expected. May be able to increase once engine temps improve.
Where can I install an oil temperature sensor?
Where can I install an oil cooler? This car is already full of stuff... I really don't know where to install it.
Oil temp sensor can be installed above the oil filter in an adapter block that you'll need to run oil lines to a radiator (if you choose to cool the oil). You run lines from the block to the radiator & then back to the adapter block. The oil cooling will be done in a replacement radiator (to save room) that also has a cooling loop for oil or you can buy a small trans type cooler & mount it in front of the radiator; then run the lines from the adapter block to the trans type cooler. If you are uncomfortable in doing the work, a shop can do this for you. A search on oil cooler installs will help in finding a write up. Can also find an oil cooler adapter plate w/ a search. I'd look here & on the net.
Do you know how better is a 93-96 LT1 cooler? It's about 50% thicker than those installed in LS1's? I don't have experience w/ this cooler.
Water/alcohol injection. 50% ethanol: 6 gallons per hour @ 100 PSI
The IAT drops from 180 to 80F in 1 second.
AFR is around 11.5 (included alcohol) and timing is 17*.
Pretty conservative, I think.
I missed the fact that you already had water injection & agree that you are conservative. 17* is pretty low; lower than what I had expected. May be able to increase once engine temps improve.
Where can I install an oil temperature sensor?
Where can I install an oil cooler? This car is already full of stuff... I really don't know where to install it.
Oil temp sensor can be installed above the oil filter in an adapter block that you'll need to run oil lines to a radiator (if you choose to cool the oil). You run lines from the block to the radiator & then back to the adapter block. The oil cooling will be done in a replacement radiator (to save room) that also has a cooling loop for oil or you can buy a small trans type cooler & mount it in front of the radiator; then run the lines from the adapter block to the trans type cooler. If you are uncomfortable in doing the work, a shop can do this for you. A search on oil cooler installs will help in finding a write up. Can also find an oil cooler adapter plate w/ a search. I'd look here & on the net.
Do you know how better is a 93-96 LT1 cooler? It's about 50% thicker than those installed in LS1's? I don't have experience w/ this cooler.
Thread Starter
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 1,066
Likes: 1
From: Zurich - Switzerland
Originally Posted by jimmyblue
And check for fine debris accumulating in the condenser and radiator fins. If ping rolls on with ECT, this is what the ECT spark adder table is for...
ECT spark tables... sorry, but I can't see them in Edit. I can only change IAT spark
Originally Posted by LS1-450
I missed the fact that you already had water injection & agree that you are conservative. 17* is pretty low; lower than what I had expected. May be able to increase once engine temps improve..
We increased the AFR to 12.5: no changes either.
Somehow this is the maximum I can get out of this engine.
OK, now I can install a smaller pulley...
On the dyno it was with a A4 tranny, 3rd gear and an unlocked stock converter. Stock paper filter and stock exhaust.
